Flooded Engine...Help
Discussion
I need some help. My 89 350 Wedge cut out last week through suspected lack of fuel pressure. Checked fuel pump connections and found that the jubilee clip attaching the hose going to the fuel filter was very lose via a slack job from a very recent service. fuel was also seen leaking out when the car was stationary.
Reconnected the hose expecting the car to start as usual first time....nothing.
RAC said there was a spark and suspected flooded engine...he was right. Removed old plugs cranked the engine to pump out old fuel minus all the regulators as I didn't know which was the fuel regulator. Re-fitted Bosch replacements and still nothing. Removed those plugs and the engine is still flooding.
What am i doing wrong? What is the cause and how can it be cured.
Incidently, the mechanic concerned will be expected to sort me out when he returns from his holidays...oh yes. For now, I can't go anywhere.
Please help if you can
Reconnected the hose expecting the car to start as usual first time....nothing.
RAC said there was a spark and suspected flooded engine...he was right. Removed old plugs cranked the engine to pump out old fuel minus all the regulators as I didn't know which was the fuel regulator. Re-fitted Bosch replacements and still nothing. Removed those plugs and the engine is still flooding.
What am i doing wrong? What is the cause and how can it be cured.
Incidently, the mechanic concerned will be expected to sort me out when he returns from his holidays...oh yes. For now, I can't go anywhere.
Please help if you can
If it is just flooded, then take the plugs out and let the fuel evaporate (say 30mins). Replace plugs, do not touch throttle pedal, and keep cranking it over. You'll need a good battery!
p.s. - I flooded my 350SE soon after I got it by forgetting about the throttle pedal. I just left it for a few hours then tried starting it. It took about 10-12 goes before a cylinder eventually fired up - then 2, 4 and eventually all 8. I never did that again, and neither did the car!
Hope this helps.
p.s. - I flooded my 350SE soon after I got it by forgetting about the throttle pedal. I just left it for a few hours then tried starting it. It took about 10-12 goes before a cylinder eventually fired up - then 2, 4 and eventually all 8. I never did that again, and neither did the car!
Hope this helps.
The cold start valve is the single fuel injector on the side of the plenum chamber. Try unplugging the wires from it and see if you problem is solved. It should only operate when starting at very low temperatures. If the car runs ok then you probably have a faulty thermotime switch (near the thermostat housing).
Another check would be to remove the injector from the plenum leaving the wires and fuel hose attached. Point it into a glass jar and try and start the car. It should not pump fuel unless it is very cold. It should not dribble fuel either.
Danny
Another check would be to remove the injector from the plenum leaving the wires and fuel hose attached. Point it into a glass jar and try and start the car. It should not pump fuel unless it is very cold. It should not dribble fuel either.
Danny
Did the cold start injector test and its spraying a very healthy dose of fuel. I even removed one relay at a time to see which was the regulator and it still sprayed fuel.
Is this a case of overfuelling?
Well baffled - I also noticed a broken connector from one of the leads. I'm aslo going to do another spark test as I didn't see a spark even though the RAC said there was one!!!
Is this a case of overfuelling?
Well baffled - I also noticed a broken connector from one of the leads. I'm aslo going to do another spark test as I didn't see a spark even though the RAC said there was one!!!
wedg1e said:
I don't suppose you disconnected the fuel lines from the fuel pressure regulator, then reconnected them the wrong way round.... 
Doesn't start then. Well mine didn't. Got a face full of fuel after I twigged and undid the hoses to reverse them.
>> Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 25th June 21:47
I just undid the cold start injector.
I'm planning to renew dizz cap, rotor arm and leads this week. Any guesses on how much is a set of magnecor leads are?
By the time the garage gets the car back. it will have a new battery, leads, dizz cap, plugs and a rotor arm....if I only i could get the car started!!!
I'm planning to renew dizz cap, rotor arm and leads this week. Any guesses on how much is a set of magnecor leads are?
By the time the garage gets the car back. it will have a new battery, leads, dizz cap, plugs and a rotor arm....if I only i could get the car started!!!
If the cold start injector IS firing, the engine MAY flood. Even so I'd expect it to have a half-hearted attempt to fire on some cylinders for a few seconds. To check, fully depress the throttle as you crank. With the extra airflow, the extra fuel wouldn't be a problem. If the engine fires, let the throttle up and see what happens.
Assuming none of this applies, maybe you DO have correct fuel and DON'T have correct sparks.
The ECU only fires the injectors when it gets firing pulses from the ignition amplifier on the side of the distributor. The amplifier has two Lucas blade connectors on it: originally there was a moulded plug that fit but this may have been chopped by now and replaced with two female spade connectors. If they aren't making good connection, or if they're on the wrong way round, you'll get no firing pulses to EITHER the coil OR the ECU. It may be that, as you are gettng some fuel, the ECU is triggering but the HT coil isn't. One possibility that just occurred: there are a few different distributors (and hence caps) for the V8. If you get the wrong type cap for your dizzy (i.e. the replacement is taller than the original), the carbon brush in the centre fails to make contact with the rotor arm and you get... no sparks, though you still get fuel. I know of one case where a mate renewed his dizzy cap at a routine service and the car wouldn't start.....
Ian
Assuming none of this applies, maybe you DO have correct fuel and DON'T have correct sparks.
The ECU only fires the injectors when it gets firing pulses from the ignition amplifier on the side of the distributor. The amplifier has two Lucas blade connectors on it: originally there was a moulded plug that fit but this may have been chopped by now and replaced with two female spade connectors. If they aren't making good connection, or if they're on the wrong way round, you'll get no firing pulses to EITHER the coil OR the ECU. It may be that, as you are gettng some fuel, the ECU is triggering but the HT coil isn't. One possibility that just occurred: there are a few different distributors (and hence caps) for the V8. If you get the wrong type cap for your dizzy (i.e. the replacement is taller than the original), the carbon brush in the centre fails to make contact with the rotor arm and you get... no sparks, though you still get fuel. I know of one case where a mate renewed his dizzy cap at a routine service and the car wouldn't start.....
Ian
Here's the latest!
Replaced leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm and the car fired up 1st time before cutting out.
Cranked the car without any throttle then slowly applied some gas and the car slowly started at full throttle as though firing on a few cylinders before coming fully to life though it wouldn't idle. Tried it again after trying to adjust the idle screw on the plenum - no joy.
Removed the plugs and they were black and covered in fuel. At least it started though I now suspect it must be a fuelling problem - either too much or not enough.
Where do I go from here? Should I remove the cold start injector once the fuel has evaporated? Should I try any adjustments else where such as the air flow meter, throttle pot?
At least I'm finding my way round the engine!!!
if any of you live near Enfield - a visit would be helpful!
Regards Andy
Replaced leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm and the car fired up 1st time before cutting out.
Cranked the car without any throttle then slowly applied some gas and the car slowly started at full throttle as though firing on a few cylinders before coming fully to life though it wouldn't idle. Tried it again after trying to adjust the idle screw on the plenum - no joy.
Removed the plugs and they were black and covered in fuel. At least it started though I now suspect it must be a fuelling problem - either too much or not enough.
Where do I go from here? Should I remove the cold start injector once the fuel has evaporated? Should I try any adjustments else where such as the air flow meter, throttle pot?
At least I'm finding my way round the engine!!!
if any of you live near Enfield - a visit would be helpful!
Regards Andy
Unplug the cold start injector. Get a new set of plugs and it will probably fire. In my experience the plugs might as well be thrown aware as the over fuelling will contaminate them and they won't work. You can claen as much as you like but it is virtually a waste of time. Cleaning them in some solvent, letting them dry and vigourous application of a brass wire brush can sometimes resurrect them and it is easy to test them by borrowing a spark plug lead but thi is not an instant fix which is why I say go get some new plugs. B7ECS BTW.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
G-Man said:
Thanx guys - I'll try unplugging the CSi. The plugs are new Boschs only put in 2 days ago.
If that works - what would be the cause of CSi pumping all that fuel?
Regards
Andy
Possibily a temp sensor is saying its minus 25 to the ECU
. There are some basic checks in most versions of the bible for checking these, can't harm, assuming you have a multimeter that is. Harry
Great News!!!
Unplugged the CSi and the car started first time. Need to sort out the idling problem. What do I need to do to make sure I've got it right? Is it a case of tweeking the Throttle Pot, Air Flow Screw, Idling screw on the plenum, or all of the above?
Considering it started without the CSi - what other checks do I need to do regarding senors etc?
Getting excited now!!
Regards
Andy C
Unplugged the CSi and the car started first time. Need to sort out the idling problem. What do I need to do to make sure I've got it right? Is it a case of tweeking the Throttle Pot, Air Flow Screw, Idling screw on the plenum, or all of the above?
Considering it started without the CSi - what other checks do I need to do regarding senors etc?
Getting excited now!!
Regards
Andy C
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