Sump sealant technique

[fatboychim]

I've refitted my RV8 sump twice now only to have it seep a year or so down the line.
Ive tried the thin smear and also the thicker spread with spatula type approach with only short term success.
The sump flange is nice and straight so I'm not sure if it's me or not.
I haven't tried laying a bead on it as I was worried too much will squish inside and break off.
So I'm doing it again this morning, any suggestions?

Edited by fatboychim on Friday 12th September 09:08

[Yellabelly]

fatboychim said:

I've refitted my RV8 sump twice now only to have it seep a year or so down the line.
Ive tried the thin smear and also the thicker spread with spatula type approach with only short term success.
The sump flange is nice and straight so I'm not sure if it's me or not.
I haven't tried laying a bead on it as I was worried too much will squish inside and break off.
So I'm doing it again this morning, any suggestions?

Edited by fatboychim on Friday 12th September 09:08

I would avoid using a silicon sealant and use a gasket instead, a number of engines have lost cams or worse due to excess sealant finding it's way through the engine and blocking oilways, resulting in oil starvation which normally affects the cam first.

YB

[fatboychim]

Thanks for your reply.
I thought RTV sealant was standard for the sump gasket and for the ends of the valley gasket, although I am aware of the dangers of over-egging it which is why I asked the question.
Do most people use gaskets then?

[Yellabelly]

fatboychim said:

Thanks for your reply.
I thought RTV sealant was standard for the sump gasket and for the ends of the valley gasket, although I am aware of the dangers of over-egging it which is why I asked the question.
Do most people use gaskets then?

Hi fbc, currently having an engine in full rebuild at V8D and the guys were quite scathing about the amount of excess silicon sealant that was used by the factory. It was really just a word of caution.

YB

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Other option is to use holomya blue (spelling may be wrong).

This stays wetish, and causes less problems in the oil than silicone.

[rev-erend]

Where exactly does the sump leak oil ?

When you look at the plate that sits on top of the sump - that pretty much ensures that most of the oil stays below that level for all but hard cornering.. or perhaps the oil level is too high !

[m4rk]

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

Other option is to use holomya blue (spelling may be wrong).

This stays wetish, and causes less problems in the oil than silicone.

Did you mean this?

http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

m4rk said:

TVRleigh_BBWR said:

Other option is to use holomya blue (spelling may be wrong).

This stays wetish, and causes less problems in the oil than silicone.

Did you mean this?

http://www.hylomar.us/universal_blue.shtml

Yes that's the stuff.

[fatboychim]

Thanks for all your replies,I decided to take advice from a friend with a Landrover garage

Sand the teflon coating from the sealing flange and RTV as usual, it's supposed to adhere better.

If it doesn't work I now have several options, I like the Hylomar method as well as Spends idea (who kindly Emailed me) of using self adhesive closed cell poly rubber strips.

Hopefully I won't be doing it again in the immediate future but who knows.
Thanks for your help

Andy

[Rocket Pepper]

I personally wouldn't give Hylomar shelf space in this day and age.

Used quite a few gasket sealers over the years, and haven't found anything better than this stuff.

http://www.wynns.uk.com/sheets/84.pdf

Don't be put off by its multiple use either. It really does adapt right across the automotive spectrum IMHO.

[ray_von]

fatboychim said:

Spends idea of using self adhesive closed cell poly rubber strips.

That's a solution that does actually work. Nice one Dave

[That Daddy]

Fit with a new gasket and this stuff http://www.ready2race.co.uk/shop/shop.php?action=f... read the instructions and dont overtighten the bolts,fit new lock washers on the bolts too,its also ideal for sealing coreplugs in the block if the mounting faces are corroded or pitted(cast iron or alli)i was never struck on the silicone only no gasket joint on the RV8 sump its just not flat enough,and over use of silicone sealants is what causes all the excess to go into the sump and block the pick up strainer,i have no problem with silicone its brilliant stuff its just people dont know how to use the stuff,a thin bead is all you need and if it needs more to seal the joint then use a gasket,it is also imperative that both faces are totally oil and dirt free,its this last point that causes pieces of the stuff to break away from the joint and do its worst

[mrcosmos]

Sadly,the sump design is over 40years old.The best i've found so far is hylomar with a cork gasket,but with some of the 8mm bolts swimming in oil, it runs down the threads.I have solved this by removing the spring washers and fitted Dowty washers[built in rubber seal],fibre washers would also work.Hope this helps.Regards,Dave.

[That Daddy]

mrcosmos said:

Sadly,the sump design is over 40years old.The best i've found so far is hylomar with a cork gasket,but with some of the 8mm bolts swimming in oil, it runs down the threads.I have solved this by removing the spring washers and fitted Dowty washers[built in rubber seal],fibre washers would also work.Hope this helps.Regards,Dave.

I would not trust fibre washers on a lawnmower they compress overnight to an unacceptable amount the outcome wont be a leak it will be a gusher as you slowly shed sump bolts,this is not a direct knock at you Mr Cosmos but i speak from experience and refuse to use them on anything,i agree with Quinny although i use a smear of Wellseal to keep cork gaskets in place and stop the cork absorbing the oil over long periods

[That Daddy]

Quinny said:

I had to nip my bolts up a couple of times as the cork compressed. But no biggy. It's still dry.

always recommend that one with cork gasket materials