tvr 3000m 1973
Discussion
There is a TVR Classic forum where you'll get more replies, but the main issue on most TVRs is the chassis. The M was no exception, especially near the diff, where I understand some sound deadening insulation felt was used. This retained moisture and promoted rust.
You also mentioned a petrol tank, I'm sure the M owners will come forward, but check this isn't a body off job. (I had a later 1988 S - the petrol tank was bolted on later.)
In fact in the Classic TVR section there is a thread on the 1600M fuel tank.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
You also mentioned a petrol tank, I'm sure the M owners will come forward, but check this isn't a body off job. (I had a later 1988 S - the petrol tank was bolted on later.)
In fact in the Classic TVR section there is a thread on the 1600M fuel tank.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Check the chassis in two places - above the diff and around the rear suspension mounts. TVR put noise and vibration padding between the chassis and body - trouble is they used felt and it soaked up the water with obvious consequences. Also check the chassis under the battery area ( NSF)
Talk to Adrian Venn about the fuel tank - it sits under a cover at the rear of the car, I think the easiest way in is to take the rear window out which gives great access
If it's a 1973 it will have a TR6 diff and not the later Salisbury - these can be troublesome so check for clonks and rumbling
Expect to find a few stress cracks - if there are a lot at the top of the screen it may mean it's popped out which they are prone to do at high speed unless they have heavy duty rubbers
If it's on Wolfraces check they're genuine - mine were fakes but apparently fitted at the factory......
Talk to Adrian Venn about the fuel tank - it sits under a cover at the rear of the car, I think the easiest way in is to take the rear window out which gives great access
If it's a 1973 it will have a TR6 diff and not the later Salisbury - these can be troublesome so check for clonks and rumbling
Expect to find a few stress cracks - if there are a lot at the top of the screen it may mean it's popped out which they are prone to do at high speed unless they have heavy duty rubbers
If it's on Wolfraces check they're genuine - mine were fakes but apparently fitted at the factory......
There is nothing really bad unusual about the M series cars. Chassis rust as mentioned, the rest is down to how well the 36 year old car has been looked after in its life.
The engine should pull strongly but keep an eye on the temperature. It should sit nicely just at or below 90 degrees when running. High reading could be mismatched sender to gauge, blocked or poor aftermarket rad or head gasket trouble. Should not need to rely on fans during normal running.
Most parts available and not so expenive. A good usable classic that is undervalued for some reason.
The engine should pull strongly but keep an eye on the temperature. It should sit nicely just at or below 90 degrees when running. High reading could be mismatched sender to gauge, blocked or poor aftermarket rad or head gasket trouble. Should not need to rely on fans during normal running.
Most parts available and not so expenive. A good usable classic that is undervalued for some reason.
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