Pre-made outrigger replacements?

[TVR653X]

I saw an advert for Chimaera and Griffith outrigger replacements, where you can buy a 'kit' and then fit them yourself. I was wondering if anyone does them for the S? I can get them fitted for cheap, IF I can get the outriggers pre-made (making them would be expensive and complex).

[dbv8]

If they definately need doing, the cheapest method could be like this.

Remove or raise the body yourself.
Cut the outriggers off in 1 piece and take them to a local engineering workshop to replicate. The tube and plate is cheap and they should be able to do the work in 2 days. Instruct the workshop to just tack the bits together.
Tack the new outriggers to the chassis, do a dummy fit and check. Make any adjustments necessary then mark and drill all holes required.
Get a welder mate to come round and promise him a free night on the beer.
Finish off welding the new outriggers in place and paint with POR15.

[TVR653X]

dbv8 said:

If they definately need doing, the cheapest method could be like this.

Remove or raise the body yourself.
Cut the outriggers off in 1 piece and take them to a local engineering workshop to replicate. The tube and plate is cheap and they should be able to do the work in 2 days. Instruct the workshop to just tack the bits together.
Tack the new outriggers to the chassis, do a dummy fit and check. Make any adjustments necessary then mark and drill all holes required.
Get a welder mate to come round and promise him a free night on the beer.
Finish off welding the new outriggers in place and paint with POR15.

I like your thinking. Cost would be a few hundred quid, and i'd have a sorted chassis. I'm yet to find out if they need doing to be honest, but I'm planning ahead incase they do.

[Gazzab]

What about the chassis you cant see? The outriggers tend to be the worst bit as they trap moisture and salt, they get hit by stones etc.... However there have been plenty of TVRs where other parts of the chassis rotted or broke whilst the outriggers were ok.

[TVR653X]

Gazzab said:

What about the chassis you cant see? The outriggers tend to be the worst bit as they trap moisture and salt, they get hit by stones etc.... However there have been plenty of TVRs where other parts of the chassis rotted or broke whilst the outriggers were ok.

Wouldn't I have to do a complete body off to check those?

[Gazzab]

To be honest you just need a professional to look at your car - you worry about the chassis, you want better brakes etc.... A good TVR expert with a 4 post lift will be able to give you the low down on whether your car needs chassis attention (and brakes, engine, drive train etc). Until then I would stop worrying about brake upgrades, engine replacements and outriggers. Unless of course you already know some things really are in need to attention.

I am sure your savings will be needed to keep the car on the road let alone upgrade stuff.

[dbv8]

Gazzab said:

What about the chassis you cant see? The outriggers tend to be the worst bit as they trap moisture and salt, they get hit by stones etc.... However there have been plenty of TVRs where other parts of the chassis rotted or broke whilst the outriggers were ok.

Really?
Name 5

[TVR653X]

Gazzab said:

To be honest you just need a professional to look at your car - you worry about the chassis, you want better brakes etc.... A good TVR expert with a 4 post lift will be able to give you the low down on whether your car needs chassis attention (and brakes, engine, drive train etc). Until then I would stop worrying about brake upgrades, engine replacements and outriggers. Unless of course you already know some things really are in need to attention.

I am sure your savings will be needed to keep the car on the road let alone upgrade stuff.

I'm having the car looked over tomorrow. To test my outriggers, I was told to tap them with a hammer; metallic 'chime' means they're ok, but a dull thud means they're rusty, correct? I'm also getting some waxoyl, but I will need to sand as much of the chassis and wishbones down as I can, yes?

Where is best to put the supports on the two post car lifts? (the ones that have supports that come out and support the car on the sills, so you can work on the brakes/wheels?). I forget their name (sorry I'm a bit vague).

[Gazzab]

The hammer test is ok - the other way is to jab with a screw driver and find the holes that are about to start. Also to get a torch and look in the most likely places where holes will start.
I suspect you want to rub down, de rust, treat and paint bare metal before waoxiling however once you start that process you will get sucked into a full resto before you know it !
No idea about a lift.

[TVR653X]

Gazzab said:

The hammer test is ok - the other way is to jab with a screw driver and find the holes that are about to start. Also to get a torch and look in the most likely places where holes will start.
I suspect you want to rub down, de rust, treat and paint bare metal before waoxiling however once you start that process you will get sucked into a full resto before you know it !
No idea about a lift.

Well, is it best to go stabbing holes in my outriggers (weakening them more than they already may be), or just leave them as they are for now, but note what needs doing and do it at the first opportunity?

[Gazzab]

dbv8 said:

Gazzab said:

What about the chassis you cant see? The outriggers tend to be the worst bit as they trap moisture and salt, they get hit by stones etc.... However there have been plenty of TVRs where other parts of the chassis rotted or broke whilst the outriggers were ok.

Really?
Name 5

I am not going to name peoples names (and I dont make notes!) but I know of a cerb chassis that snapped at the rear that required bodywork to be cut open to have repairs made. This wasnt outriggers. I have seen of and heard about plenty of Cerbs where the chassis needed work near the exhaust manifolds - the heat generated had allowed serious rot to set in. There was a yellow cerb on here where the whole chassis was falling apart (let alone the outriggers). Happy to bow to great experience and knowledge though.

[combine]

dbv8 said:

If they definately need doing, the cheapest method could be like this.

Remove or raise the body yourself.
Cut the outriggers off in 1 piece and take them to a local engineering workshop to replicate. The tube and plate is cheap and they should be able to do the work in 2 days. Instruct the workshop to just tack the bits together.
Tack the new outriggers to the chassis, do a dummy fit and check. Make any adjustments necessary then mark and drill all holes required.
Get a welder mate to come round and promise him a free night on the beer.
Finish off welding the new outriggers in place and paint with POR15.

You need to put the chassis in a jig before cutting off the outrigger/s or it will twist .

Edited by combine on Tuesday 2nd February 20:43

[TVR653X]

combine said:

dbv8 said:

If they definately need doing, the cheapest method could be like this.

Remove or raise the body yourself.
Cut the outriggers off in 1 piece and take them to a local engineering workshop to replicate. The tube and plate is cheap and they should be able to do the work in 2 days. Instruct the workshop to just tack the bits together.
Tack the new outriggers to the chassis, do a dummy fit and check. Make any adjustments necessary then mark and drill all holes required.
Get a welder mate to come round and promise him a free night on the beer.
Finish off welding the new outriggers in place and paint with POR15.

You need to put the chassis in a jig before cutting off the outrigger/s or it will twist .

Edited by combine on Tuesday 2nd February 20:43

I've never heard that before! My dad was told the outriggers were purely to support the bodywork, and that he could still drive the Chim with rusty outriggers, but to get them done ASAP. He was told this by the SSCC engineer, who really knew his stuff.

[Barreti]

combine said:

You need to put the chassis in a jig before cutting off the outrigger/s or it will twist .

Well thats a good few Griff owners I know who have twisted chassis then, myself included.

How did you come to that conclusion?

[dbv8]

Gazzab said:

dbv8 said:

Gazzab said:

What about the chassis you cant see? The outriggers tend to be the worst bit as they trap moisture and salt, they get hit by stones etc.... However there have been plenty of TVRs where other parts of the chassis rotted or broke whilst the outriggers were ok.

Really?
Name 5

I am not going to name peoples names (and I dont make notes!) but I know of a cerb chassis that snapped at the rear that required bodywork to be cut open to have repairs made. This wasnt outriggers. I have seen of and heard about plenty of Cerbs where the chassis needed work near the exhaust manifolds - the heat generated had allowed serious rot to set in. There was a yellow cerb on here where the whole chassis was falling apart (let alone the outriggers). Happy to bow to great experience and knowledge though.

Sorry mate i was only messing.
Sounds like the Cerbs have more of a problem with heat however.
Their chassis are longer and under more stress than that of Griffs and Chims so maybe that explains it.

[dbv8]

Barreti said:

combine said:

You need to put the chassis in a jig before cutting off the outrigger/s or it will twist .

Well thats a good few Griff owners I know who have twisted chassis then, myself included.

How did you come to that conclusion?

Not that old chestnut again.
I drove and raced my Chim for many miles and months with barely anything left of the outriggers.
They do help in chassis rigidity, but are primarily there to locate the body.

[Barkychoc]

A bit difficult to jig your outriggers if they have already dissolved

[dbv8]

Spot whats missing...

[TVR653X]

dbv8 said:

Spot whats missing...

That's a triangulated structure, it isn't going to bend easily.....

[combine]

Apologies , I imagined chassis could go out of line if outriggers were removed .