Matching pistons?
Discussion
Im considering rebuilding my engine on a 'relatively' cheap budget in order to get me racing and cruising sooner than later.
I will probably make the leap to a LS conversion at the end of next year.
I damaged 2 pistons in my 450 last year and i have spare 4 litre pistons. As far as i can see they are identical in size, ie bore dia, pin size and deck height.
Would i be able to cut 'eyebrows' and then match the weight to the other pistons?
Or am i missing something?
I will probably make the leap to a LS conversion at the end of next year.
I damaged 2 pistons in my 450 last year and i have spare 4 litre pistons. As far as i can see they are identical in size, ie bore dia, pin size and deck height.
Would i be able to cut 'eyebrows' and then match the weight to the other pistons?
Or am i missing something?
I knew it!
A new pair it is then. £40 each + £50 to cut the eyebrows and match the weights to the others.
It never does any harm to save some pennies if your on a budget (starting saving for the LS)
I have enough to spend already as is.....
Bespoke nitrous friendly cam
ARP bolts and studs
Solid followers
Adjustable pushrods
Couple or inlet valves
Copper head gaskets
Cam bearings
Moly piston rings
Double valve springs
Timing chain
etc
Probably rebuilt for a little over 1k
then a full MS2 kit from extraefi

A new pair it is then. £40 each + £50 to cut the eyebrows and match the weights to the others.
It never does any harm to save some pennies if your on a budget (starting saving for the LS)
I have enough to spend already as is.....
Bespoke nitrous friendly cam
ARP bolts and studs
Solid followers
Adjustable pushrods
Couple or inlet valves
Copper head gaskets
Cam bearings
Moly piston rings
Double valve springs
Timing chain
etc
Probably rebuilt for a little over 1k
then a full MS2 kit from extraefi
Area/size of bowl relates to cc in the piston - as long as your replacement ones are machined out to match your existing ones, with valve cutouts in their correct location and pistons then weigh the same, there shouldn't be a problem as the quench pad will then remain (I'm assuming your wrist pin location is identical too, otherwise piston will either poke out the top and hit head or not come up far enough). You'll need to check thickness of piston below the bowl to make sure there's enough meat to retain strength before you go milling... or you'll crack them open under full load..... happy days.
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measure them again 