ARMOURFEND. IS IT ANY GOOD?
Discussion
I'm having the nose of my Griff 500 resprayed to get rid of the inevitable stone chips.
Do any of you PHers have experience of Armourfend paint protection film?
How much does it cost, is it any good, and are there any alternative manufacturers or methods?
Can any competent bodyshop apply it, or does it have to be done by a specialist?
Thanks.
Do any of you PHers have experience of Armourfend paint protection film?
How much does it cost, is it any good, and are there any alternative manufacturers or methods?
Can any competent bodyshop apply it, or does it have to be done by a specialist?
Thanks.
I had the nose of my Griff Armourfended 4 years ago after a full respray. I think it's great and has protected the paintwork well, though of course you can see that it's there from some angles and you need to be careful when polishing. There is a small tear in it where a larger/sharper stone or something has hit it but it still protected the paint underneath.
I also used a couple of offcuts on the main beam lamps, one of which has subsequently been cracked by something but at least the armourfend is keeping it all in place.
I also used a couple of offcuts on the main beam lamps, one of which has subsequently been cracked by something but at least the armourfend is keeping it all in place.
It should not be put onto fresh paint, Should wait at least 6 weeks. Also is known to damage the paint when removed (top coat) so you may end up having to have a re-spay. It can look crap after a few stone hits!
I personally would never fit it after seeing the damage it can cause after removal.
I personally would never fit it after seeing the damage it can cause after removal.
I believe Paintshield comes highly recommended for paint protection film. http://www.paintshield.co.uk/
YRRunner said:
For what it costs, the potential of yellowing, how crap it looks, how even crapper it looks when it's taken some knocks, the potential for damaging paintwork on removal etc,..... I would just budget for nose cone/mirrors/rear diffuser repaint every 2/3 years or so.
This was also my take on it, YRRunner. Had the same decision to make post paint.But...
dunno about dahn sarf, but up here in the wilds they took to shovelling piles of orange shale on to the roads after the salt ran out this winter. This will not do TVR nose cones much good, is what I'm thinking.
J
Just had mine done in a full wrap at www.paintshield.co.uk and I'm very, very impressed with the service and quality.
Yes, you can see some lines, but only if you really look for them. To the man in the street the lines are far less noticeable than any stone chips. There is a care sheet about what products to use on it to reduce yellowing and lifting. It is a plastic film at the end of the day, therefore mild-solvent based cleaners, waxes and TFR will affect the appearance. And again careful polishing/waxing will minimise the white lines along the edges of the film.
There is a very slight orange peel effect, but this is caused by the paper backing the film is manufactured on and a premium film is available for a cost. It is also only noticeable under close inspection and still looks better than many factory fresh paint finishes seen in car showrooms!
One thing that I would personally recommend though is to invest in a proper detail/paint correction prior to the film going down once the paint has cured (4-6 weeks as mentioned above). Although fresh paint does look very smart to the average/untrained eye, once it has been properly machine polished and waxed, the film will keep this shine in place. Otherwise, no amount of wax added on top of the film will improve the slightly imperfect finish under the film.
I've also seen the film being removed from a car at the workshop that completed my respray and as long as it is warmed up slightly, there is no damage to the paint at all, especially if it has been waxed prior to the film being laid.
Not sure about the Griff, but for the Chim there were a couple of different GRP moulds used for the bodywork, so to ensure a near as perfect fit, I took mine to Peterborough and left it with them for a few days for them to take measurements and cut it to fit - although no cutting is done once the film is on the bodywork, something that deterred me from using one of the mobile fitting services. I also have a non-standard front end on mine so it was effectively a custom/one off job for them.
Yes, you can see some lines, but only if you really look for them. To the man in the street the lines are far less noticeable than any stone chips. There is a care sheet about what products to use on it to reduce yellowing and lifting. It is a plastic film at the end of the day, therefore mild-solvent based cleaners, waxes and TFR will affect the appearance. And again careful polishing/waxing will minimise the white lines along the edges of the film.
There is a very slight orange peel effect, but this is caused by the paper backing the film is manufactured on and a premium film is available for a cost. It is also only noticeable under close inspection and still looks better than many factory fresh paint finishes seen in car showrooms!
One thing that I would personally recommend though is to invest in a proper detail/paint correction prior to the film going down once the paint has cured (4-6 weeks as mentioned above). Although fresh paint does look very smart to the average/untrained eye, once it has been properly machine polished and waxed, the film will keep this shine in place. Otherwise, no amount of wax added on top of the film will improve the slightly imperfect finish under the film.
I've also seen the film being removed from a car at the workshop that completed my respray and as long as it is warmed up slightly, there is no damage to the paint at all, especially if it has been waxed prior to the film being laid.
Not sure about the Griff, but for the Chim there were a couple of different GRP moulds used for the bodywork, so to ensure a near as perfect fit, I took mine to Peterborough and left it with them for a few days for them to take measurements and cut it to fit - although no cutting is done once the film is on the bodywork, something that deterred me from using one of the mobile fitting services. I also have a non-standard front end on mine so it was effectively a custom/one off job for them.
Edited by Steve in Stoke on Sunday 27th February 22:53
Hi
Had my Tuscan Convertible detailed and then a full wrap from Paintshield.
I got caught out in some bad weather last year, plus the route I took was diverted which took me down some really crappy country lanes. When I got to where I was going the car looked like a tractor fresh from ploughing a field!
I was mortified!!
But once I got the car cleaned up it looked as fresh as the day I had it delivered back from Paintshield, not a mark on it. Believe me if I hadn't had the protection film on I would have definately expected some chipping.
Can't recommend the gang at Paintsheiled highly enough, great to deal with.
Worth every penny IMO, especially when Reflex Charcoal if 800 quid a litre!!!!
IM
Had my Tuscan Convertible detailed and then a full wrap from Paintshield.
I got caught out in some bad weather last year, plus the route I took was diverted which took me down some really crappy country lanes. When I got to where I was going the car looked like a tractor fresh from ploughing a field!
I was mortified!!
But once I got the car cleaned up it looked as fresh as the day I had it delivered back from Paintshield, not a mark on it. Believe me if I hadn't had the protection film on I would have definately expected some chipping.
Can't recommend the gang at Paintsheiled highly enough, great to deal with.
Worth every penny IMO, especially when Reflex Charcoal if 800 quid a litre!!!!
IM
The film on mine is I think more than 8 years old and seems to have done a very good job. There isnt a single chip on the film (but theree are several on the unprotected areas) and it has also fended off what looks like a buumper scrape on the front wing. There is an ever so slight yelowing but it is only just discernable. You can just see the edge about 1 foot up from the bonnet lip.
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