Tracking down a coolant leak ...
Discussion
Looking for some advice on an issue with my '98 Griff.
I've had an overheating problem recently that I'm sure is down to a simple water leak but I'm having no luck tracking it down. When I refill the system I can run the car with it stationary for 20 minutes but as soon as I drive it any distance the car overheats and I discover that the water is all but gone.
The head gaskets were both done 5000 miles ago and there's no evidence of water contamination in the oil so my conclusion is that the movement of the engine is opening up a split hose somewhere. Of course, by the time it's parked again the heat has dried everything up.
The hoses are all still original so it's not unlikely but does anybody know of a way to test which one is failing rather than spend £150 on a full set?
Thanks
df
I've had an overheating problem recently that I'm sure is down to a simple water leak but I'm having no luck tracking it down. When I refill the system I can run the car with it stationary for 20 minutes but as soon as I drive it any distance the car overheats and I discover that the water is all but gone.
The head gaskets were both done 5000 miles ago and there's no evidence of water contamination in the oil so my conclusion is that the movement of the engine is opening up a split hose somewhere. Of course, by the time it's parked again the heat has dried everything up.
The hoses are all still original so it's not unlikely but does anybody know of a way to test which one is failing rather than spend £150 on a full set?
Thanks
df
A reasonable garage should have a swirl tank pressur cap with a schrader tyre valve let into the top.
The cooling system is filled/all air removed, and then the regular cap replaced with the 'test' cap. A couple of strokes on a foot pump can put the system up to the operating pressure (16 psi?) - - which should reveal any external leaks.
Head gasket failure can be checked by a garage test for lube oil/hydrocarbon in the coolant. Both tests shouldn't take more than an hour.
Have you thoroughly checked the rad' end caps, particularly around the IN & OUT nozzles (brazing in particular)? Dont forget the heater matrix can also fail....but hard to get at on the Chim/Griff.
On my V8S with the pre-serp engine, I had a coolant loss issue. This turned out to be a pin-hole under the jubilee clip on the hose ex the thermostat to the radiator....was I pleased to track that baby down?
Nick
The cooling system is filled/all air removed, and then the regular cap replaced with the 'test' cap. A couple of strokes on a foot pump can put the system up to the operating pressure (16 psi?) - - which should reveal any external leaks.
Head gasket failure can be checked by a garage test for lube oil/hydrocarbon in the coolant. Both tests shouldn't take more than an hour.
Have you thoroughly checked the rad' end caps, particularly around the IN & OUT nozzles (brazing in particular)? Dont forget the heater matrix can also fail....but hard to get at on the Chim/Griff.
On my V8S with the pre-serp engine, I had a coolant loss issue. This turned out to be a pin-hole under the jubilee clip on the hose ex the thermostat to the radiator....was I pleased to track that baby down?
Nick
A reasonable garage should have a swirl tank pressur cap with a schrader tyre valve let into the top.
The cooling system is filled/all air removed, and then the regular cap replaced with the 'test' cap. A couple of strokes on a foot pump can put the system up to the operating pressure (16 psi?) - - which should reveal any external leaks.
Head gasket failure can be checked by a garage test for lube oil/hydrocarbon in the coolant. Both tests shouldn't take more than an hour.
Have you thoroughly checked the rad' end caps, particularly around the IN & OUT nozzles (brazing in particular)? Dont forget the heater matrix can also fail....but hard to get at on the Chim/Griff.
On my V8S with the pre-serp engine, I had a coolant loss issue. This turned out to be a pin-hole under the jubilee clip on the hose ex the thermostat to the radiator....was I pleased to track that baby down?
Nick
The cooling system is filled/all air removed, and then the regular cap replaced with the 'test' cap. A couple of strokes on a foot pump can put the system up to the operating pressure (16 psi?) - - which should reveal any external leaks.
Head gasket failure can be checked by a garage test for lube oil/hydrocarbon in the coolant. Both tests shouldn't take more than an hour.
Have you thoroughly checked the rad' end caps, particularly around the IN & OUT nozzles (brazing in particular)? Dont forget the heater matrix can also fail....but hard to get at on the Chim/Griff.
On my V8S with the pre-serp engine, I had a coolant loss issue. This turned out to be a pin-hole under the jubilee clip on the hose ex the thermostat to the radiator....was I pleased to track that baby down?
Nick
A reasonable garage should have a swirl tank pressur cap with a schrader tyre valve let into the top.
The cooling system is filled/all air removed, and then the regular cap replaced with the 'test' cap. A couple of strokes on a foot pump can put the system up to the operating pressure (16 psi?) - - which should reveal any external leaks.
Head gasket failure can be checked by a garage test for lube oil/hydrocarbon in the coolant. Both tests shouldn't take more than an hour.
Have you thoroughly checked the rad' end caps, particularly around the IN & OUT nozzles (brazing in particular)? Dont forget the heater matrix can also fail....but hard to get at on the Chim/Griff.
On my V8S with the pre-serp engine, I had a coolant loss issue. This turned out to be a pin-hole under the jubilee clip on the hose ex the thermostat to the radiator....was I pleased to track that baby down?
Nick
The cooling system is filled/all air removed, and then the regular cap replaced with the 'test' cap. A couple of strokes on a foot pump can put the system up to the operating pressure (16 psi?) - - which should reveal any external leaks.
Head gasket failure can be checked by a garage test for lube oil/hydrocarbon in the coolant. Both tests shouldn't take more than an hour.
Have you thoroughly checked the rad' end caps, particularly around the IN & OUT nozzles (brazing in particular)? Dont forget the heater matrix can also fail....but hard to get at on the Chim/Griff.
On my V8S with the pre-serp engine, I had a coolant loss issue. This turned out to be a pin-hole under the jubilee clip on the hose ex the thermostat to the radiator....was I pleased to track that baby down?
Nick
Thanks both.
I ran the car without the thermostat to exclude that from the diagnosis and looking into the swirl tank the water pump is certainly moving lots of water about so I don't think it's that. What I need to identify is whether the lack of water is causing the overheat or whether it is overheating due to something else and subsequently boiling some of the water away.
I ran the car without the thermostat to exclude that from the diagnosis and looking into the swirl tank the water pump is certainly moving lots of water about so I don't think it's that. What I need to identify is whether the lack of water is causing the overheat or whether it is overheating due to something else and subsequently boiling some of the water away.
Thanks for the advice all - I followed Spend's kitchen roll tip and after a few minutes of checking each hose I noticed a pool of water around my feet. Being able to rule out the hoses I got under the car and found a solid dripping from the middle of the radiator. I hadn't considered this as it was changed fairly recently but of course now I look at it there's a clear white patch in the centre showing that it's been leaking for a while!
So, worse news than a simply hose but much better news than anything in the engine!
Thanks again.
df
So, worse news than a simply hose but much better news than anything in the engine!
Thanks again.
df
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