Why you should monitor your oil pressure daily
Discussion
1) Check oil. Just over half. No oil to top up with.
2) Go on longish journey. Oil hot and viscous, drains from valley to sump quickly. Oil pressure fine.
3) Next day, check oil. Just over empty. Attempt to drive to Halfords to get more oil.
4) Start engine. Oil cold and sticky. Oil drains from valley to sump slowly.
5) Sump empties rapidly as oil is sent around the engine.
6) Check oil pressure gauge. Dropping rapidly from 30psi.
7) Eyes on stalks. Shouting at it has no effect. Seconds later, oil presure is now less than 10psi. Oil pressure light still off. Kill engine
8) Check oil again. 3mm under empty. Find random synthetic oil and top up.
9) Start engine. Oil pressure not rising. Oil pressure light flickering. Kill engine.
10) Grovel under car disconnecting fuel pump, burn arms on exhaust checking sender connections, scrape hands while disconnecting coil.
11) Turn car over on starter until oil pressure rises.
12) Grovel under car reconnecting fuel pump, scrape hands again while reconnecting coil.
13) Start car. Oil pressure fine.
14) Late for appointment, clothes ruined, etc.
If the oil level is low, do not pass go and save yourself much more than 200 quid!
Ian A.
2) Go on longish journey. Oil hot and viscous, drains from valley to sump quickly. Oil pressure fine.
3) Next day, check oil. Just over empty. Attempt to drive to Halfords to get more oil.
4) Start engine. Oil cold and sticky. Oil drains from valley to sump slowly.
5) Sump empties rapidly as oil is sent around the engine.
6) Check oil pressure gauge. Dropping rapidly from 30psi.
7) Eyes on stalks. Shouting at it has no effect. Seconds later, oil presure is now less than 10psi. Oil pressure light still off. Kill engine
8) Check oil again. 3mm under empty. Find random synthetic oil and top up.
9) Start engine. Oil pressure not rising. Oil pressure light flickering. Kill engine.
10) Grovel under car disconnecting fuel pump, burn arms on exhaust checking sender connections, scrape hands while disconnecting coil.
11) Turn car over on starter until oil pressure rises.
12) Grovel under car reconnecting fuel pump, scrape hands again while reconnecting coil.
13) Start car. Oil pressure fine.
14) Late for appointment, clothes ruined, etc.
If the oil level is low, do not pass go and save yourself much more than 200 quid!
Ian A.
Guillotine said:
(could have pulled the king lead on dizzy to save clothes)
...i know, too 'kin late!
I was following the bible Mk 2. Disconnected +ve side of coil to stop sparkers, but still need to disconnect fuel pump or fuel pump fuse to stop petrol, or am I confused?
Edited to add, that's probably just because I still have one of those pesky catalytic converters. A hex on the person who invented them!
Ian A.
>> Edited by IPAddis on Tuesday 11th May 08:19
greenv8s said:
Just out of curiosity, why do you need to stop the sparks? With no fuel, it ain't going to fire up is it?
Dunno, I just follow the gospel. I suppose that as the fuel pressure drops in the fuel rail due to the non-working pump, the sparks would ignite a very lean mixture which apparently is bad in a sort of melted piston way.
Actually, thinking about it, the bible does say to remove the spark plugs to lower the resistance through compression. I couldn't be bothered with this as it sounded like a recipe for getting the leads in the wrong order. If you did remove the plugs, you wouldn't want the sparks to be shorting against random bits of metal.
Ian A.
would have thought...
disconnect fuel to allow engine to turn low revs while oil is pumped round vitals.
hence I would remove king lead to stop it firing to 1000revs.
but, if you do want to stop fuel, pull relay for pump in footwell silver with sripe. stay fairly clean again!
andy no cats
disconnect fuel to allow engine to turn low revs while oil is pumped round vitals.
hence I would remove king lead to stop it firing to 1000revs.
but, if you do want to stop fuel, pull relay for pump in footwell silver with sripe. stay fairly clean again!
andy no cats
Guillotine said:
but, if you do want to stop fuel, pull relay for pump in footwell silver with sripe. stay fairly clean again!
Ahh yes but on the Griffith that involves:
1) Extract passenger footrest
2) Move ECU onto floor
3) Establish exactly which of the 500 versions (hence Griffith 500) of the fuse box you have
4) Guess at the correct fuse
5) Check fuel pump disabled
6) Reprime engine
7) Relocate fuse without breaking fragile fuse box
8) Spend 30 minutes repackaging the ECU and dangly bits of the wiring loom into the space above the battery
9) Refit passenger footrest
10) Notice that the passenger footrest is resting on the ECU connector
11) Manipulate ECU under the edge of the fuse box, relocating wiring loom with increased profanity
12) Refit passenger footrest
13) Reattach bits of heating controls dislodged by passenger footrest
14) Change glovebox catch which exploded when the glovebox came into heavy contact with your head
TVR's, don't ya just love em!
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