Anyone changed their Chim/Griff wishbone bushes???
Discussion
Looking for some input/feedback on wishbone(not diff) bushes from anyone who has renewed their OE Metalastic type ones.
Happy to be corrected but my understanding is there are currently three main types available:
Original Metalastic type bushes as TVR fitted
Powerflex bushes
Superflex bushes
I have no interest in track days so just after something that will last and won't make my granny's false teeth fall out, although looking at the amount of rubber on the original ones I doubt there will be much difference between them?
I don't doubt there may be some heat related longevity issues for the ones near the exhaust, despite various shields/wraps that are supplied with them so interested in how the "poly" type bushes survive that.
So, what make/type did you fit, why those, would you fit the same again and how long have they lasted?
Many thanks in advance for any real life feedback
Happy to be corrected but my understanding is there are currently three main types available:
Original Metalastic type bushes as TVR fitted
Powerflex bushes
Superflex bushes
I have no interest in track days so just after something that will last and won't make my granny's false teeth fall out, although looking at the amount of rubber on the original ones I doubt there will be much difference between them?
I don't doubt there may be some heat related longevity issues for the ones near the exhaust, despite various shields/wraps that are supplied with them so interested in how the "poly" type bushes survive that.
So, what make/type did you fit, why those, would you fit the same again and how long have they lasted?
Many thanks in advance for any real life feedback
Fitted Superflex to mine about 2 1/2 years ago.
No sign of wear after about 15K and about 18 or so T/D's.
After dismantling, I took the easy option and gave all the wishbones to a friend who removed the original bushes in his workshop, (hard bit done).
There is no real problem in the fit proceedure as the system is very user friendly.
I have made sure the heat wrap protects the top front bushes and have suffered no problems.
All in all a job made do-able by having a decent garage or a pita if you don't!
No sign of wear after about 15K and about 18 or so T/D's.
After dismantling, I took the easy option and gave all the wishbones to a friend who removed the original bushes in his workshop, (hard bit done).
There is no real problem in the fit proceedure as the system is very user friendly.
I have made sure the heat wrap protects the top front bushes and have suffered no problems.
All in all a job made do-able by having a decent garage or a pita if you don't!
I did all my front bushes last summer. After much consideration I went for the OE metalastic type because I had previously fitted Polybushes to another car (TR6) and found the ride a bit harsh for my tastes.
I have to say the ride and handling are much improved. Bit of swearing and grunting to fit, but otherwise not too hard as a DIY job as long as you can get access to a press to push them in.
I guess your choice will be down to hw you drive the car. I suspect that polybushes are better for track/very hard road use. They certainly seem to have plenty of advocates.
I have to say the ride and handling are much improved. Bit of swearing and grunting to fit, but otherwise not too hard as a DIY job as long as you can get access to a press to push them in.
I guess your choice will be down to hw you drive the car. I suspect that polybushes are better for track/very hard road use. They certainly seem to have plenty of advocates.
Do the bushes just press in and out (theoretically)? Thinking about doing mine while the engine is out. Not something I'd normally attempt, but I'll have the benefit of a fully equipped workshop and a resident mechanic to pester while my Chim's off for its convalescence in the country.
Chris71 said:
Do the bushes just press in and out (theoretically)? Thinking about doing mine while the engine is out. Not something I'd normally attempt, but I'll have the benefit of a fully equipped workshop and a resident mechanic to pester while my Chim's off for its convalescence in the country.
You really need a basic press (which any workshop should have) to get the Metalastic ones in and out of the wishbones. It has been done with a big bench vice, but I wouldn't recommend it...
I think the Polybush ones will go in without a press.
You don't need any tools (apart from a spanner) to do the ARB ones.
I think the Polybush ones will go in without a press.
You don't need any tools (apart from a spanner) to do the ARB ones.
I've renewed all my wishbone and diff bushes. I used TVR 'oe' metalastic bushes because the originals had lasted 14 years & 50k miles and still appeared to be in good order other than those front upper wishbone bushes which are closest to the exhaust manifold - If I hadn't already bought the new bushes I might have been tempted to leave most og the old ones in. I had to concede and use a poly bush for the diff top mount as I just could not get a metalastic one in.
I removed all the old bushes in the same way - drill enough holes through the rubber to enable that to be pulled out using a long nut/bolt and a socket (or a void bush puller tool if you have one). For the diff bushes I used a 40mm diameter hole saw to chop through the rubber.
Once the centre has been removed from the bushes I used a hack saw to 'carefully' cut two slots about 10 mm apart through the outer sleeve of the bush, then using a sharp chisel and hammer I peeled that slotted piece of metal out which then alowed me to drive out the rest of the bush. All of this was done using a heavy duty bench vice.
I refitted the bushes by pressing them in using the bench vice having first cleaned and copper slipped the insides of the wishbones.
The polybush slipped easily into the diff upper mount using a nut/bolt & socket 'puller' to pull it through.
I removed all the old bushes in the same way - drill enough holes through the rubber to enable that to be pulled out using a long nut/bolt and a socket (or a void bush puller tool if you have one). For the diff bushes I used a 40mm diameter hole saw to chop through the rubber.
Once the centre has been removed from the bushes I used a hack saw to 'carefully' cut two slots about 10 mm apart through the outer sleeve of the bush, then using a sharp chisel and hammer I peeled that slotted piece of metal out which then alowed me to drive out the rest of the bush. All of this was done using a heavy duty bench vice.
I refitted the bushes by pressing them in using the bench vice having first cleaned and copper slipped the insides of the wishbones.
The polybush slipped easily into the diff upper mount using a nut/bolt & socket 'puller' to pull it through.
DarkMatter said:
I've renewed all my wishbone and diff bushes. I used TVR 'oe' metalastic bushes because the originals had lasted 14 years & 50k miles and still appeared to be in good order other than those front upper wishbone bushes which are closest to the exhaust manifold - If I hadn't already bought the new bushes I might have been tempted to leave most og the old ones in.
I like your thinking here - my OE bushes have been doing the job for 11 years, so no complaints there, using them again would solve the problem of my heat related doubts with poly ones. I dare say using the OE ones for the top fronts and whatever poly ones for the rest could also work and might be the best of both worlds.I notice there have been no thoughts so far on the Superflex option, any takers out there?
Ribol said:
I like your thinking here - my OE bushes have been doing the job for 11 years, so no complaints there, using them again would solve the problem of my heat related doubts with poly ones. I dare say using the OE ones for the top fronts and whatever poly ones for the rest could also work and might be the best of both worlds.
I notice there have been no thoughts so far on the Superflex option, any takers out there?
Mine has Superflex as supplied by Joo of Track Car. They seem complient and I have been very pleased with them, also a doddle to fit!I notice there have been no thoughts so far on the Superflex option, any takers out there?
I didn't reply to this thread before because I hadn't driven any great distance with my new bushes in. My suspension set up has the Steve Heath full kit (so the 'black' polybushes in all the suspension areas (wishbones and rear uprights), the ARB bushes and the Steve Heath droplinks. It also has Gaz Pro Golds with the 'fast road/track day' spring rates that Absolute Shocks supply them with. Shocks set to Dan Taylor's base settings (10 clicks off the bottom, at least on the rear). I have Toyo Proxes TR tyres (new) on all 4 corners, and my wheel combination is 17 rear, 16 front. Tyres are 255 on rear, 225 on front.
Yesterday I drove from my place in TN12, Kent, down to Camber Sands via lots of B and A roads, along the coast road to Romney and then back via minor A roads, through Tenterden, Cranbrook, Staplehurst. Lots of pretty crumby and crappy surfaces. Car rode superbly. No harshness or banging about at all. In fact I was wondering if I shouldn't have gone for harder springs.
A few other things - my seats are in very good nick, which might help, and I have also changed the ball joints top and bottom at the front end too, so there's no slop in them.
Overall, I am really happy with the set up. The reason why I've detailed out what I've done to the suspension/wheel is that alot of times it's not a controlled experiment. What I mean by that is that someone will say 'Oh, I tried them - shook my fillings out'. They omit to say that they also went mad on the spring rates at the same time and had their dampers set to fully stiff, and running 18's all round with super-low profile tyres.
Yesterday I drove from my place in TN12, Kent, down to Camber Sands via lots of B and A roads, along the coast road to Romney and then back via minor A roads, through Tenterden, Cranbrook, Staplehurst. Lots of pretty crumby and crappy surfaces. Car rode superbly. No harshness or banging about at all. In fact I was wondering if I shouldn't have gone for harder springs.
A few other things - my seats are in very good nick, which might help, and I have also changed the ball joints top and bottom at the front end too, so there's no slop in them.
Overall, I am really happy with the set up. The reason why I've detailed out what I've done to the suspension/wheel is that alot of times it's not a controlled experiment. What I mean by that is that someone will say 'Oh, I tried them - shook my fillings out'. They omit to say that they also went mad on the spring rates at the same time and had their dampers set to fully stiff, and running 18's all round with super-low profile tyres.
Edited by EggsBenedict on Wednesday 20th April 08:32
Good post, I agree with all you said.
As to your spring rates, do you know the actual poundage?
Also, make sure the ride height is set correctly giving your suspension full movement.
My first spring change was standard + 20% as recommended by Joo, much better for fast road as the originals bottomed out at speed!
As to your spring rates, do you know the actual poundage?
Also, make sure the ride height is set correctly giving your suspension full movement.
My first spring change was standard + 20% as recommended by Joo, much better for fast road as the originals bottomed out at speed!
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