Halfords power pack man enough for Griff 500?
Discussion
I'm a Griff 500 owner, and a regular sufferer of "dude, where's my battery charge?" syndrome. I've got the optimate etc but still find myself stranded in a car park every 2-3 years waiting for the AA man and his power pack.
I've now decided that carrying a power pack around with me is the only sensible option. I notice that Halfords have a unit which supplies "Boost Power: 400A" and "Peak Amps: 900". Can anyone tell me whether this'll be enough to revive a dead Griff 500?
www.halfords.com/opd_product_details.asp?id=18571&type=0&cat=28
If not, could anyone please recommend a unit (and preferably a supplier) that'll do this trick??
TIA for any guidance....
Ian
I've now decided that carrying a power pack around with me is the only sensible option. I notice that Halfords have a unit which supplies "Boost Power: 400A" and "Peak Amps: 900". Can anyone tell me whether this'll be enough to revive a dead Griff 500?
www.halfords.com/opd_product_details.asp?id=18571&type=0&cat=28
If not, could anyone please recommend a unit (and preferably a supplier) that'll do this trick??
TIA for any guidance....
Ian
We killed two power packs stone cold dead when my alternator diodes packed up before my MOT last year.
A powerpack might work if there's still juice in the battery, but in my case, nothing less than the auctionhouse-size-monster-pack-on-wheels would spin the engine over enough to start it. A solar battery conditioner is a better idea maybe.
>> Edited by andy43 on Sunday 16th May 11:20
A powerpack might work if there's still juice in the battery, but in my case, nothing less than the auctionhouse-size-monster-pack-on-wheels would spin the engine over enough to start it. A solar battery conditioner is a better idea maybe.
>> Edited by andy43 on Sunday 16th May 11:20
Twice, the AA man has tried to jump start mine from one of those battery-in-a-box things and found it wasn't up to the job, always ends up piggy-backing a direct feed from the van to get it going.
Why does your battery go flat? I used to get this from time to time so I fitted a lights-on alarm which was fine until the door switch it uses failed so it didn't go off when I left th lights on. Then I added a Priority Start battery isolator system which has tripped a couple of times but always left enough juice to start the engine.
Why does your battery go flat? I used to get this from time to time so I fitted a lights-on alarm which was fine until the door switch it uses failed so it didn't go off when I left th lights on. Then I added a Priority Start battery isolator system which has tripped a couple of times but always left enough juice to start the engine.
Why does the battery go flat?? - One of life's eternal questions I'm afraid. I've had 2 Griffs over the last 9 years and they both suffered from it.
The alternator's fine (but was replaced anyway), an electrics specialist ran his meter over it and found zero drain when the ignition's off, I don't use the alarm when it's in the garage, but I can guarantee a flat battery if it's left standing for 3 weeks - hence the Optimate, which has been a godsend over the last few years.
Now I've found that even the Optimate doesn't insure against the AA calls - on more than one occasion it's started up right as rain in the garage, only to die on the return journey (only a few hours later).
So far I've been lucky enough with the AA power packs, so I've concluded that something like this should become a permanent fixture in my boot.
From browsing the net, I've come across a "Red Flash 30" which delivers 850A - is anyone familiar with these, or know where I can get a good price on one??
The alternator's fine (but was replaced anyway), an electrics specialist ran his meter over it and found zero drain when the ignition's off, I don't use the alarm when it's in the garage, but I can guarantee a flat battery if it's left standing for 3 weeks - hence the Optimate, which has been a godsend over the last few years.
Now I've found that even the Optimate doesn't insure against the AA calls - on more than one occasion it's started up right as rain in the garage, only to die on the return journey (only a few hours later).
So far I've been lucky enough with the AA power packs, so I've concluded that something like this should become a permanent fixture in my boot.
From browsing the net, I've come across a "Red Flash 30" which delivers 850A - is anyone familiar with these, or know where I can get a good price on one??
I think the moral of the story here is
"Don't leave your Griff standing for 3 weeks!!"
I couldn't leave mine for 3 days without getting withdrawal symptoms!
I all seriousness though, it should well be up to the job, used a mates halford jobbie on mine when the old battery was knackered.
>> Edited by dannyboyo on Sunday 16th May 20:19
"Don't leave your Griff standing for 3 weeks!!"
I couldn't leave mine for 3 days without getting withdrawal symptoms!
I all seriousness though, it should well be up to the job, used a mates halford jobbie on mine when the old battery was knackered.
>> Edited by dannyboyo on Sunday 16th May 20:19
might be unconnected but I used to get a problem with a 911 Turbo I had.
flat battery when no drain etc. Alternator was 100% OK.
The problem was the earth connection between the starter motor and the chassis. Causes massive drain when the starter motor is engaged.
Don't know if it's the same with the griff? but might be worth considering.
Good Luck
PS It took the Porsche specialist 3 months to find!
flat battery when no drain etc. Alternator was 100% OK.
The problem was the earth connection between the starter motor and the chassis. Causes massive drain when the starter motor is engaged.
Don't know if it's the same with the griff? but might be worth considering.
Good Luck
PS It took the Porsche specialist 3 months to find!
Have you considered the Lo-Tech option??
Whatever the reasons behind the battery failing- you just want to get it started at the end of the day. I assume one of these power packs is both expensive and heavy - not what you need in the boot of a car that wags its tail easily enough without the extra inertia.
What about carrying jump leads - then every person in the carpark is a potential AA man, and they don't take up precious boot room.
Apologies if I've missed the point, but it seemed like an easy solution to me
Whatever the reasons behind the battery failing- you just want to get it started at the end of the day. I assume one of these power packs is both expensive and heavy - not what you need in the boot of a car that wags its tail easily enough without the extra inertia.
What about carrying jump leads - then every person in the carpark is a potential AA man, and they don't take up precious boot room.
Apologies if I've missed the point, but it seemed like an easy solution to me
itm said:
Now I've found that even the Optimate doesn't insure against the AA calls - on more than one occasion it's started up right as rain in the garage, only to die on the return journey (only a few hours later).
Have you had the battery tested / replaced. They don't last all that long on a 500!
Ian A.
Thanks for all the input, and alternative suggestions. Believe me, over the last 9 years I've considered most things. I've also spent a few quid getting it diagnosed by at least 3 dealers - all of whom drew a blank.
I routinely carry jump leads, but still often find myself without a friendly vehicle owner to help out (e.g. in the car park at Heathrow at 11pm). I'm happy to deal with a bit of extra tailspin for the comfort of knowing that I can start the car if necessary - and have removed the spare to compensate :0)
This is my 4th or 5th battery. The most recent one fitted is a Varta (stock no. 570072051/069) - fitted June 2001. I'm guessing that it's nearing the end of it's life. I also notice that the previous one (also a Varta, fitted in Feb '98) was rated at 510A - does this sound a little under-rated?
Interesting suggestion re. the earth connection on the starter. I'm not sure if this rings any bells, but I've noticed that whenever I try to start the car when hot (e.g. at a petrol station) the starter always refuses to turn on the first attempt - exactly as if the battery was flat. It usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd attempt, very reluctantly. If the car is then left for a few hours it will turn over normally - with the battery seemingly healthy again. Does anyone recognise these symptoms?
I routinely carry jump leads, but still often find myself without a friendly vehicle owner to help out (e.g. in the car park at Heathrow at 11pm). I'm happy to deal with a bit of extra tailspin for the comfort of knowing that I can start the car if necessary - and have removed the spare to compensate :0)
This is my 4th or 5th battery. The most recent one fitted is a Varta (stock no. 570072051/069) - fitted June 2001. I'm guessing that it's nearing the end of it's life. I also notice that the previous one (also a Varta, fitted in Feb '98) was rated at 510A - does this sound a little under-rated?
Interesting suggestion re. the earth connection on the starter. I'm not sure if this rings any bells, but I've noticed that whenever I try to start the car when hot (e.g. at a petrol station) the starter always refuses to turn on the first attempt - exactly as if the battery was flat. It usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd attempt, very reluctantly. If the car is then left for a few hours it will turn over normally - with the battery seemingly healthy again. Does anyone recognise these symptoms?
Yes the battery is under spec at 510 AMP and yes this will kill the battery in no time. See the battery chapter in the bible or download it from www.tvrbooks.co.uk
The symptoms you describe can also be associated with duff earths, bad connections and a duff starter where heat is causing the solenoid to stick and cause a high resistence.
Can also be made worse by a faulty alternator and/or 100 amp fuse.
Normal recommendation is to fit a heat shield. on the starter once it has been sorted out.
The symptoms you describe can also be associated with duff earths, bad connections and a duff starter where heat is causing the solenoid to stick and cause a high resistence.
Can also be made worse by a faulty alternator and/or 100 amp fuse.
Normal recommendation is to fit a heat shield. on the starter once it has been sorted out.
itm said:
I've noticed that whenever I try to start the car when hot (e.g. at a petrol station) the starter always refuses to turn on the first attempt - exactly as if the battery was flat. It usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd attempt, very reluctantly. If the car is then left for a few hours it will turn over normally - with the battery seemingly healthy again. Does anyone recognise these symptoms?
This is a common problem. There have been several threads posted about this subject. Just let the starter cool down & it will fire up normally.
I have tested the battery drain on mine. It is the same with the alarm on or off. I assume this is due to the immobiliser.
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