First Time Buyer - Help!
Discussion
Hi All, I’m in my mid 20’s and have had the keen interest in a Triumph GT6, Mk2 & Mk3. I have found a few that I would like to enquire on.
Before I do that and potentially view any in person, I would like to know what to expect during the ownership of them and how much you would expect to pay to maintain it.
The ones I have been looking at have had full restorations around 10 years ago and have been stored appropriately (i.e. on trickle charge, temp controlled garage) to keep them rust free.
I know a little about Triumph’s but no where near enough so any help is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
W
Before I do that and potentially view any in person, I would like to know what to expect during the ownership of them and how much you would expect to pay to maintain it.
The ones I have been looking at have had full restorations around 10 years ago and have been stored appropriately (i.e. on trickle charge, temp controlled garage) to keep them rust free.
I know a little about Triumph’s but no where near enough so any help is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
W
First off check out the members clubs. The TCCS and Club Triumph are good options for the small chassis Triumphs like the GT6. Not sure about CT but reasonably sure the TSSC forums are open to non members.
Other than that the main things to look for are:
1. Rust.
2. Rust.
3. Rust.
Mechanically are relatively straight forward and with good parts availability (though a CV joint swap is a 'good to have' or easy swap on the Mk2 as current rubber doughnuts are expensive and not long-lasting) so just the basic tests for smoke/mayonaise.
Other than some of the more obscure, model specific items parts availablility's good and through the clubs you can usually find someone who has a spare obscure part tucked away or can suggest an alternative.
For running costs, well next to nothing really especially if you use it regularly as it's sitting around that seems to do more damage to seals and thing than driving them. Rimmerbros/Moss have the biggest parts supply...and also prices. Check out James Paddock and Canley Classics for cheaper ones.
Other than that the main things to look for are:
1. Rust.
2. Rust.
3. Rust.
Mechanically are relatively straight forward and with good parts availability (though a CV joint swap is a 'good to have' or easy swap on the Mk2 as current rubber doughnuts are expensive and not long-lasting) so just the basic tests for smoke/mayonaise.
Other than some of the more obscure, model specific items parts availablility's good and through the clubs you can usually find someone who has a spare obscure part tucked away or can suggest an alternative.
For running costs, well next to nothing really especially if you use it regularly as it's sitting around that seems to do more damage to seals and thing than driving them. Rimmerbros/Moss have the biggest parts supply...and also prices. Check out James Paddock and Canley Classics for cheaper ones.
//j17 said:
First off check out the members clubs. The TCCS and Club Triumph are good options for the small chassis Triumphs like the GT6. Not sure about CT but reasonably sure the TSSC forums are open to non members.
Other than that the main things to look for are:
1. Rust.
2. Rust.
3. Rust.
Mechanically are relatively straight forward and with good parts availability (though a CV joint swap is a 'good to have' or easy swap on the Mk2 as current rubber doughnuts are expensive and not long-lasting) so just the basic tests for smoke/mayonaise.
Other than some of the more obscure, model specific items parts availablility's good and through the clubs you can usually find someone who has a spare obscure part tucked away or can suggest an alternative.
For running costs, well next to nothing really especially if you use it regularly as it's sitting around that seems to do more damage to seals and thing than driving them. Rimmerbros/Moss have the biggest parts supply...and also prices. Check out James Paddock and Canley Classics for cheaper ones.
^^^^^ What they said.Other than that the main things to look for are:
1. Rust.
2. Rust.
3. Rust.
Mechanically are relatively straight forward and with good parts availability (though a CV joint swap is a 'good to have' or easy swap on the Mk2 as current rubber doughnuts are expensive and not long-lasting) so just the basic tests for smoke/mayonaise.
Other than some of the more obscure, model specific items parts availablility's good and through the clubs you can usually find someone who has a spare obscure part tucked away or can suggest an alternative.
For running costs, well next to nothing really especially if you use it regularly as it's sitting around that seems to do more damage to seals and thing than driving them. Rimmerbros/Moss have the biggest parts supply...and also prices. Check out James Paddock and Canley Classics for cheaper ones.
I will also emphasise that the mechanicals are cheap(ish), bodywork less so unless you can do the work yourself.
Thank you for all the information, much appreciated!
Sounds as though the main concern here is the rust. Happy to say one of the cars I’m looking at was in cold storage from 2010-2019 and has been garaged, and only driven in the summer ever since - which appears to support their majority no rust claim (in addition to the photos) - the only place I have seen it, as I have just received the photos, is on the underneath of the car and it does only look cosmetic, presumably okay?
If at any point I decide to do the favoured engine swap to the 2.5L straight six, is it worth it? Given the amount of work and equipment required.
Thanks
Sounds as though the main concern here is the rust. Happy to say one of the cars I’m looking at was in cold storage from 2010-2019 and has been garaged, and only driven in the summer ever since - which appears to support their majority no rust claim (in addition to the photos) - the only place I have seen it, as I have just received the photos, is on the underneath of the car and it does only look cosmetic, presumably okay?
If at any point I decide to do the favoured engine swap to the 2.5L straight six, is it worth it? Given the amount of work and equipment required.
Thanks
The first rule or rust club is - always assume there's at least as much again you can't see as you can see. That said if it's just 'surface dust' rust on a flat panel shouldn't be a major concern. Anything near seams or that seems to be coming out from inside the chassis is more a concern/expense to repair.
If you can get the car in the air, even if only on stands so you can get under and get a better look at things. Also take a decent fridge magnet with you and throw it at the car. One of these will stick to metal/metal with a very thin skim of filler but won't stick when the panel's more filler than metal.
As for the engine swap probably best to ask on the club forums as you'll get people who've done it but on paper you won't gain much BHP but get an increase in torque and at lower RPM. There's also plenty of advice on what you need for the swap on those forums as the question gets asked quite often. Personally I'd say the diff and gearbox are both marginal in a standard GT6 so leave it as it is.
If you can get the car in the air, even if only on stands so you can get under and get a better look at things. Also take a decent fridge magnet with you and throw it at the car. One of these will stick to metal/metal with a very thin skim of filler but won't stick when the panel's more filler than metal.
As for the engine swap probably best to ask on the club forums as you'll get people who've done it but on paper you won't gain much BHP but get an increase in torque and at lower RPM. There's also plenty of advice on what you need for the swap on those forums as the question gets asked quite often. Personally I'd say the diff and gearbox are both marginal in a standard GT6 so leave it as it is.
As suggested rust will be the biggest issue, they get very hot inside and there isn't much space. A sunroof is a nice addon.
As for the engine swap if its a complete unit you could do it in an afternoon. But I would say don't bother, modify the engine thats in there if you really need more power, the rear ends can be a bit interesting depending on the year and how you drive it which may also be a consideration for more power. Nothing wrong with the rear end if respect it though.
Parts as easy to get and cheap.
As for the engine swap if its a complete unit you could do it in an afternoon. But I would say don't bother, modify the engine thats in there if you really need more power, the rear ends can be a bit interesting depending on the year and how you drive it which may also be a consideration for more power. Nothing wrong with the rear end if respect it though.
Parts as easy to get and cheap.
+3 rust.
Find a sock, a very soft exterior one and the biggest magnet you can cram into the toe. Get down on you knees and very slowly run along the body, checking it stays magnetically attached. Bodies that have had poor rust repair your magnet won’t stay attached.
This won’t tell you about the floors or frame but if the body is suspect then the frame could be worse. Or not, there’s no 100% until you can get it in a hoist and a detailed inspection is done.
See how much paperwork it has, more better. If it’s ever had a respray or restoration a photo album might exist. When I bought our 1973 TR6 4yrs ago, it came with a ledger book going back to 1981 that each owner kept clear notes (& folder of invoices for all parts) as well as a photo album of the strip down and restoration 14yrs ago.
Even with all that, both sills behind front wheels had to be cutout, new parts welded in and repainted plus a small area in the floor behind our seats where the body contacts the frame.
Other than that, you’ll need reasonable set of tools. I tend to buy most parts from the TR Shop in Chiswick who has them and Rimmers if not.
Find a sock, a very soft exterior one and the biggest magnet you can cram into the toe. Get down on you knees and very slowly run along the body, checking it stays magnetically attached. Bodies that have had poor rust repair your magnet won’t stay attached.
This won’t tell you about the floors or frame but if the body is suspect then the frame could be worse. Or not, there’s no 100% until you can get it in a hoist and a detailed inspection is done.
See how much paperwork it has, more better. If it’s ever had a respray or restoration a photo album might exist. When I bought our 1973 TR6 4yrs ago, it came with a ledger book going back to 1981 that each owner kept clear notes (& folder of invoices for all parts) as well as a photo album of the strip down and restoration 14yrs ago.
Even with all that, both sills behind front wheels had to be cutout, new parts welded in and repainted plus a small area in the floor behind our seats where the body contacts the frame.
Other than that, you’ll need reasonable set of tools. I tend to buy most parts from the TR Shop in Chiswick who has them and Rimmers if not.
+ many, rust and more rust.
Many years ago I had a Spitfire, it was 5 years old when I bought it and was fairly rust free. I had it for a couple of years during which time I was forever chasing rust, most notably the sills.
Otherwise mainly transmission/running gear related failures: clutch, propshaft, trunnions, clutch (again), exhaust (rust).
The clutch etc. could be put down to my 'youthful enthusiasm' i.e. ragging it too much but, even so it would seem to me the transmission was not particularly robust and this with a lowly 70hp 4 cyl. engine, GT6 presumably makes a decent amount more power whilst I doubt the transmission is any stronger, combine that with it being 50 years old and, did I mention rust?
That said, I thoroughly enjoyed my Spitfire and did consider trading it for a GT6 or even fitting a GT6 engine but in the end swapped it for a 3L Capri.
Good luck.
Many years ago I had a Spitfire, it was 5 years old when I bought it and was fairly rust free. I had it for a couple of years during which time I was forever chasing rust, most notably the sills.
Otherwise mainly transmission/running gear related failures: clutch, propshaft, trunnions, clutch (again), exhaust (rust).
The clutch etc. could be put down to my 'youthful enthusiasm' i.e. ragging it too much but, even so it would seem to me the transmission was not particularly robust and this with a lowly 70hp 4 cyl. engine, GT6 presumably makes a decent amount more power whilst I doubt the transmission is any stronger, combine that with it being 50 years old and, did I mention rust?
That said, I thoroughly enjoyed my Spitfire and did consider trading it for a GT6 or even fitting a GT6 engine but in the end swapped it for a 3L Capri.
Good luck.
citizen smith said:
Crankshaft end float, same as TR6 issues.
To expand on that, the Triumph 'SC' engines use a pair of semi-circular thrust washers to set/control the end float on the crank. The are held in place by...well wishful thinking most of the time. If they fall out into the bottom of the sump, something they can and do do, you get loads of end float and the crank hammering back and forwards into the block usually scrap both the crank and block (eventually, not instantly!).Engines like this usually, but not always, sound noisy but the best way to test is:
1. Try and get down to the crank pully and give it a good wang back and forth. Movement you can just about feel's OK. Movement you can see and hear not so much.
2. Watch the crank pully as a friend depresses and releases the clutch pedal. If you don't see anything, it's good. If you can see the crank/pully moving fore and aft it needs a rebuild before driving and if it's been used like that much night need a new engine - so price accordingly.
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