Torsion beam lowering...

[KM666]

So who had it done, where and how much did it cost?

I wont even attempt to do it myself as the 'click' method is too ghetto for me, I can fit the uprated dampers to go with it myself, and do the fronts, but not the beam. So who does a proper job? Would be looking for about a 30mm drop.

I'm sure some of the saxo vts/106gti/Clio williams/16v and some must have been lowered so who did the work and what did it cost?

[bertelli_1]

Depends on the car. are we talking vw beetle, porsche or french hatchback? in any case you need to find a specialist who is familiar with your particular car.

[P I Staker]

I did my 106 it was easy, the difficulty is with seized parts rather then the actual procedure.

Lowered it one 'notch' which I believe is about 40mm.

What car are you wanting to do this to?

[Zoobeef]

As above normal prob is getting the torsion bar out its rusty hole.

Although a slide hammer worked well

[KM666]

Its a Frech hatch based 2 door, a Megane Coupe. So I should be searching for the people who do the french stuff.

I was really after somebody who could take it out and do it using the spline adjustment, IIRC it alows you to choose a specific height, I've heard stories about things breaking when its clicked by 40mm at a time.

[Nick1point9]

KM666 said:

the 'click' method is too ghetto for me

Pardon my ignorance but I thought that removing preload from the torsion beam is what is done in the click method, and that this is the correct way to lower a torsion beam set up?

What's the correct way if this is too ghetto for you?

[KM666]

Nick1point9 said:

Pardon my ignorance but I thought that removing preload from the torsion beam is what is done in the click method, and that this is the correct way to lower a torsion beam set up?

What's the correct way if this is too ghetto for you?

I've heard that removing the bars and then refitting to a lower setting was the 'proper' method. It allows for more specific adjustment instead of 40mm drops at a time.

[P I Staker]

KM666 said:

I've heard that removing the bars and then refitting to a lower setting was the 'proper' method. It allows for more specific adjustment instead of 40mm drops at a time.

This is how I did my 106 as I was told it saves the axle bearings.

The splines on the bars are spaced so far apart,so you only get so much adjustment in that

[Mr2Mike]

KM666 said:

I've heard that removing the bars and then refitting to a lower setting was the 'proper' method. It allows for more specific adjustment instead of 40mm drops at a time.

Correct; the torsion bars have a different number of splines on each end so you effectively have a high resolution vernier adjustment if you remove the bar. Using an adjustable "dummy" damper(aka shock absorber) to set the trailing arm height prior to re-inserting the torsion bar will ensure you set both sides equally.

[KM666]

Mr2Mike said:

Correct; the torsion bars have a different number of splines on each end so you effectively have a high resolution vernier adjustment if you remove the bar. Using an adjustable "dummy" damper(aka shock absorber) to set the trailing arm height prior to re-inserting the torsion bar will ensure you set both sides equally.

Well its good to hear it confirmed. I knew there was a more 'legit' way of doing it.