Sheered Front Shock Absorber Bolts

[Gazz57]

Hi

Looking some advice, I think my next move is to drill what remains out it maybe someone out there has some better advice.

I had a spring break on my Renault Clio, yesterday I began the process of replacing it but found the two bolts holding it to the wheel where seized. I hammered and heated to no avail giving up leaving some WD40 to soak in over night.

This morning I was able to get one off but managed to shear the top of the other bolt... Still having no way to get it out I had enough room to get an angle grinder in to cut the other side out with out too much damage.

Now I have the core of the bolt sized inside the hole on the top of the wheel hup where the shock connects.

Some pictures at this link

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g2feq6hxcq0sfy6/AAB3Tz3...

I think drilling is the only way forward? Any suggestions even on what type of drill bits?

Thanks

[TooLateForAName]

That looks like you've totally knackered the hub carrier with the angle grinder.

Next time note wd40 is not suitable - use penetrating oil and a then an impact driver.

Edited by TooLateForAName on Friday 16th March 17:01

[Cold]

Remove the hub and pop out the remains of the bolt in a press.

[ceebmoj]

Hopefully the upright looks worse than it is, you may well find the damper does not nip up to the upright any more. Do you know anyone with a press? If not take the upright along to a local independant and see if thay will press what's left of the bolt out of the upright.

Be careful with the spring compressor and you might find an impact gun useful in the future.

[Garybee]

Buy another hub assembly from a scrap yard. That one is only fit for the bin.

[E-bmw]

As above, that is now scrap due to the grinder damage.

[Gazz57]

Thanks for the advice! Will definitely invest in an impact wrench....

Was considering buying a Vonhaus or silverstorm corded electric impact wrench before this happened but will be buying one or the other this weekend.

Any advice on impact wrenches? Air compressed wouldn't be an option.

[227bhp]

An impact wrench will just as happily snap heads off seized bolts, what you need is a Mini Ductor.

[robinessex]

The ONLY way often to remove a seized bolt is to place item under a Pillar Drill, and carefully drill out the old bolt bit by bit, with gradually larger drill bits, stopping when you get to the root dia of the bolt. Then carefully dig out bolt thread bits, until you can get a tap started, and then you can tap out the rest of it.

[227bhp]

robinessex said:

The ONLY way often to remove a seized bolt is to place item under a Pillar Drill, and carefully drill out the old bolt bit by bit, with gradually larger drill bits, stopping when you get to the root dia of the bolt. Then carefully dig out bolt thread bits, until you can get a tap started, and then you can tap out the rest of it.

No, that's what you do after you've tried everything else like hammers and heat.
Intense heat usually does it, but not something your average DIYer has to hand hence why we do the same topic every week.

[Andy 308GTB]

227bhp said:

Intense heat usually does it, but not something your average DIYer has to hand hence why we do the same topic every week.

Very true, I have been guilty of raising a similar question. Getting it off the car and using a press would be the simple option?

[227bhp]

Andy 308GTB said:

227bhp said:

Intense heat usually does it, but not something your average DIYer has to hand hence why we do the same topic every week.

Very true, I have been guilty of raising a similar question. Getting it off the car and using a press would be the simple option?

I'd do everything I could with it on the car before resorting to taking it off, but yes pressing it out is often the way, not much argues with 10 tons of point load.

[stevieturbo]

Andy 308GTB said:

Very true, I have been guilty of raising a similar question. Getting it off the car and using a press would be the simple option?

You can buy Mapp gas torches which are adequate to impart a lot of heat for reasonable money, although obviously heat will travel into other areas too which needs to be considered in most cases.

Inductors are supposed to be very good too...but very pricey.

Or lots of patience, care and penetrating fluid.

But in this case, just throw a new hub onto it as it looks butchered now.

[Dave Brand]

The "not-so-cheap but works every time" option is spark erosion:

http://www.sparkeroding.co.uk/index.htm

A bit over the top in this instance!

[Megaflow]

As other have said, new upright/knuckle required now.

That one might be ok, but you don’t know if the damage left by the angle grinder has introduced and stress razors that start a crack, and you really don’t want that cracking.

Plus if you managed to snap a bolt that big, the only way you are getting the rest out is by drilling it, which means you need to take it off to put it in a proper drill press, so as it is coming off anyway, it may as well be changed.

[Mr2Mike]

Megaflow said:

As other have said, new upright/knuckle required now.

That one might be ok,

It's absolutely isn't ok. A significant depth of the carefully machined surface that the strut clamps on to has been ground away.

[Dave Brand]

Mr2Mike said:

It's absolutely isn't ok. A significant depth of the carefully machined surface that the strut clamps on to has been ground away.

Until I took another look at the photos I hadn't really appreciated just how badly butchered it was!