Reliant scimitar brakes not working
Discussion
Hi all,
I’ve been having trouble with the brakes on my 1976 reliant since I bought the thing 6 months ago, the car had been sat for 7 years before I bought it but I was told it had just had new brake system before.
When I depressed the brakes they just did absolutely nothing, the car would continue to roll and not stop, so after taking the servo apart there was a piece loose (I then broke the servo trying to reassemble it.
Because of this I bought a brake servo which came with a master cylinder of a car the guy was breaking. Fitted them today and they still don’t work, i then tried to bleed the brakes in case that was an issue, but after doing that I noticed that if I removed the metal pipes going into the master cylinder and pumped the brake no fluid came out as I would expect or if it did it was a miniscule amount.
At this point I am very confused and in need of some help. Thanks
I’ve been having trouble with the brakes on my 1976 reliant since I bought the thing 6 months ago, the car had been sat for 7 years before I bought it but I was told it had just had new brake system before.
When I depressed the brakes they just did absolutely nothing, the car would continue to roll and not stop, so after taking the servo apart there was a piece loose (I then broke the servo trying to reassemble it.
Because of this I bought a brake servo which came with a master cylinder of a car the guy was breaking. Fitted them today and they still don’t work, i then tried to bleed the brakes in case that was an issue, but after doing that I noticed that if I removed the metal pipes going into the master cylinder and pumped the brake no fluid came out as I would expect or if it did it was a miniscule amount.
At this point I am very confused and in need of some help. Thanks
Dr.Cox,
Sounds as if you are working in the dark! Do you have a workshop manual? I can't recommend any of these, I don't know them, but a manukla can be an enormous help, if only by the diagrams and illustrations.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?url=search-alias%3Dstri...
If nothing is pumped by the master cylinder, then that needs to be rebuilt. Kits of new seals available on ebay etc. but a new M/c is only about twice the cost, unless you have one of the dual susyems, when they are a lot more.
John
Sounds as if you are working in the dark! Do you have a workshop manual? I can't recommend any of these, I don't know them, but a manukla can be an enormous help, if only by the diagrams and illustrations.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?url=search-alias%3Dstri...
If nothing is pumped by the master cylinder, then that needs to be rebuilt. Kits of new seals available on ebay etc. but a new M/c is only about twice the cost, unless you have one of the dual susyems, when they are a lot more.
John
Edited by tapkaJohnD on Wednesday 15th August 10:14
The autobooks one was the one I had when I had my SE5 in the early 80s & IIRC was fine.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reliant-Scimitar-1968-70-...
Difficult without a w/s manual so I'd also recommend getting one.
Problem with used parts is you have no idea whether they were actually any good.
I'd go along with the m/c probably being faulty. A rebuild might sort it but have a look at the bores first to see if they're good or pitted.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reliant-Scimitar-1968-70-...
Difficult without a w/s manual so I'd also recommend getting one.
Problem with used parts is you have no idea whether they were actually any good.
I'd go along with the m/c probably being faulty. A rebuild might sort it but have a look at the bores first to see if they're good or pitted.
Edited by paintman on Wednesday 15th August 10:42
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