Just hit the kerb urgh
Discussion
Well somehow i managed to end up sideways and as i pulled into my estate at about 8-10mph my front wheel smacked into the kerb with a good thud.
I can see the alloy is kerbed round the edge, tyre looks okay, i think the bodywork didnt get hit (touch wood), my main worry is - is it likely i knocked my alignment out?
I can see the alloy is kerbed round the edge, tyre looks okay, i think the bodywork didnt get hit (touch wood), my main worry is - is it likely i knocked my alignment out?
Is it likely anyone on here is currently inspecting your car up on ramps with alignment equipment fitted to it?
The first test is, if it drives 100%, if the steering wheel is exactly in the same position it was before when driving straight ahead, no tugging to any side when let go (allowing for road camber if necessary) etc then it very likely is fine. Otherwise, not. The slightest misalignment at the front due to impact damage will be very very obvious at the wheel. You may feel irregularities however if the wheel rim is damaged, so you can only test after this issue has been sorted.
The first test is, if it drives 100%, if the steering wheel is exactly in the same position it was before when driving straight ahead, no tugging to any side when let go (allowing for road camber if necessary) etc then it very likely is fine. Otherwise, not. The slightest misalignment at the front due to impact damage will be very very obvious at the wheel. You may feel irregularities however if the wheel rim is damaged, so you can only test after this issue has been sorted.
Right ive had it aligned.
The toe was out by 1.2 degrees on the affected wheel. Camber was in range.
Technician said camber being in range is a good sign, they couldent see any obvious bends in anything underneath but i went in with the car pulling to the left and now it pulls to the right a bit.
Could the alignment just need an adjustment or is it likely something has been damaged? (Alignment was brought back to within green levels)
Guy said the internal sidewall of the tyre may be damaged? Theres no external damage to the tyre at all and im pretty sure my alloy took the brunt and it doesent seem buckled or bent.
Im happy to take it back but if its going to be something bent id rather choose a different garage to have it repaired as their prices are quite high. Any ideas?
The toe was out by 1.2 degrees on the affected wheel. Camber was in range.
Technician said camber being in range is a good sign, they couldent see any obvious bends in anything underneath but i went in with the car pulling to the left and now it pulls to the right a bit.
Could the alignment just need an adjustment or is it likely something has been damaged? (Alignment was brought back to within green levels)
Guy said the internal sidewall of the tyre may be damaged? Theres no external damage to the tyre at all and im pretty sure my alloy took the brunt and it doesent seem buckled or bent.
Im happy to take it back but if its going to be something bent id rather choose a different garage to have it repaired as their prices are quite high. Any ideas?
HustleRussell said:
Petrolsmasher said:
The toe was out by 1.2 degrees on the affected wheel. Camber was in range.
That's massive. Something has bent / moved. As it's toe it's easily adjusted. If the wheel isn't sitting straight now, take it back and let them have another go.With a hunter wheel alignment machine they will be able to check wheelbase difference (left to right) and axle angle difference (front to rear).
If they're relatively small (<4mm or so or under 2deg) this should give you confidence the damage is not overly significant.
Ask him to check the full lock toe angle difference as well, this can highlight if the steering rack has been shifted or bent.
I've seen a car which had a shunt and was OK'd by the technician because he got the wheel alignment correct. He didn't check the wheelbase difference and the rear right was about 12mm rearward! New subframe with control arms required!
If the car is still pulling it's likely you're either very fat or the car was aligned improperly. Depending on the manufacturer the alignment should be done with the car empty but full of fuel. Some manufacturers stipulate full fuel and 2x75kg on the front seats.
Additionally tyre pressure and tyre uniformity can cause pulling issues also.
If they're relatively small (<4mm or so or under 2deg) this should give you confidence the damage is not overly significant.
Ask him to check the full lock toe angle difference as well, this can highlight if the steering rack has been shifted or bent.
I've seen a car which had a shunt and was OK'd by the technician because he got the wheel alignment correct. He didn't check the wheelbase difference and the rear right was about 12mm rearward! New subframe with control arms required!
If the car is still pulling it's likely you're either very fat or the car was aligned improperly. Depending on the manufacturer the alignment should be done with the car empty but full of fuel. Some manufacturers stipulate full fuel and 2x75kg on the front seats.
Additionally tyre pressure and tyre uniformity can cause pulling issues also.
John145 said:
With a hunter wheel alignment machine they will be able to check wheelbase difference (left to right) and axle angle difference (front to rear).
If they're relatively small (<4mm or so or under 2deg) this should give you confidence the damage is not overly significant.
Ask him to check the full lock toe angle difference as well, this can highlight if the steering rack has been shifted or bent.
I've seen a car which had a shunt and was OK'd by the technician because he got the wheel alignment correct. He didn't check the wheelbase difference and the rear right was about 12mm rearward! New subframe with control arms required!
If the car is still pulling it's likely you're either very fat or the car was aligned improperly. Depending on the manufacturer the alignment should be done with the car empty but full of fuel. Some manufacturers stipulate full fuel and 2x75kg on the front seats.
Additionally tyre pressure and tyre uniformity can cause pulling issues also.
Going to take it back on monday anyway but just had my head near the wheel then and it sounds like air leaking, it was a pulsating noise like a faint bird but could have been air through water seeing as its wet outside?If they're relatively small (<4mm or so or under 2deg) this should give you confidence the damage is not overly significant.
Ask him to check the full lock toe angle difference as well, this can highlight if the steering rack has been shifted or bent.
I've seen a car which had a shunt and was OK'd by the technician because he got the wheel alignment correct. He didn't check the wheelbase difference and the rear right was about 12mm rearward! New subframe with control arms required!
If the car is still pulling it's likely you're either very fat or the car was aligned improperly. Depending on the manufacturer the alignment should be done with the car empty but full of fuel. Some manufacturers stipulate full fuel and 2x75kg on the front seats.
Additionally tyre pressure and tyre uniformity can cause pulling issues also.
Turns out the tyre valve was leaking but thats being replaced. Back to have alignment checked on monday seeing as its pulling to the right, dont know what the cause could be seeing as they couldent see any damage underneath. Im hoping the wheel just hasent been set properly or something.
Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff