Removing surface rust on brake discs that have been stood
Discussion
I recently purchased a big brake kit second hand which has been stood for some time off of the vehicle. As such the discs have a fair amount of surface rust/gunk.
Discs:
Test fitment: (wheels have since been refurbished and all decent tyres now!)
The discs have barely been used and have no noticeable lip on them. Fresh pads will be going in but I'm reluctant to bed them in on the discs in their current state.
Thoughts please - do I sand them with a fine grit wet and dry, wirebrush them, just put pads in and drive it? Thanks
Discs:
Test fitment: (wheels have since been refurbished and all decent tyres now!)
The discs have barely been used and have no noticeable lip on them. Fresh pads will be going in but I'm reluctant to bed them in on the discs in their current state.
Thoughts please - do I sand them with a fine grit wet and dry, wirebrush them, just put pads in and drive it? Thanks
If they are contaminated, use brake cleaner to clean them.
If they have a rough surface due to corrosion, they will clean up on their own but if it is severe and you want to address it, you could use a wire brush to take off loose corrosion and garnet paper to take off any remaining rough spots. But it's quite normal for brakes to rust and would have to be severe for it to be worth worrying about.
The main area to be concerned about is the locating collar and flange that mates against the hub. Any dirt/corrosion here would need fixing before you install them.
If they have a rough surface due to corrosion, they will clean up on their own but if it is severe and you want to address it, you could use a wire brush to take off loose corrosion and garnet paper to take off any remaining rough spots. But it's quite normal for brakes to rust and would have to be severe for it to be worth worrying about.
The main area to be concerned about is the locating collar and flange that mates against the hub. Any dirt/corrosion here would need fixing before you install them.
Eh? Maybe I am missing something. Why the 'Big girl's blouse' approach? Why the bleat?
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and put them on? They'll clean-up on their own in 20 miles, if they're not bad; 100 if worse. By 250 they will be fine.
And just suppose I'm wrong, and you DO have to change them, what have you lost trying to prove that I'm right. Which I almost definitely am?
I've got a £5000 bet with anyone willing to take it, by 1000 miles, there's minor pitting at worst. Dear god. There's only one way they won't come good - if your brakes don't work.
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and put them on? They'll clean-up on their own in 20 miles, if they're not bad; 100 if worse. By 250 they will be fine.
And just suppose I'm wrong, and you DO have to change them, what have you lost trying to prove that I'm right. Which I almost definitely am?
I've got a £5000 bet with anyone willing to take it, by 1000 miles, there's minor pitting at worst. Dear god. There's only one way they won't come good - if your brakes don't work.
Edited by OldDuffer on Thursday 12th September 12:56
OldDuffer said:
Eh? Maybe I am missing something. Why the 'Big girl's blouse' approach? Why the bleat?
Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and put them on? They'll clean-up on their own in 20 miles, if they're not bad; 100 if worse. By 250 they will be fine.
And just suppose I'm wrong, and you DO have to change them, what have you lost trying to prove that I'm right. Which I almost definitely am?
I've got a £5000 bet with anyone willing to take it, by 1000 miles, there's minor pitting at worst. Dear god. There's only one way they won't come good - if your brakes don't work.
Don't spoil the fun with a sensible suggestion.Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and put them on? They'll clean-up on their own in 20 miles, if they're not bad; 100 if worse. By 250 they will be fine.
And just suppose I'm wrong, and you DO have to change them, what have you lost trying to prove that I'm right. Which I almost definitely am?
I've got a £5000 bet with anyone willing to take it, by 1000 miles, there's minor pitting at worst. Dear god. There's only one way they won't come good - if your brakes don't work.
Edited by OldDuffer on Thursday 12th September 12:56
I'd probably just fit them and see in they clean up, yes.
Though in the states you can buy what is basically a ball-type bore hone, only for use on flat surfaces rather than cylinders, they're sold specifically for lightly resurfacing discs. Be interested in seeing how well they work.
Though in the states you can buy what is basically a ball-type bore hone, only for use on flat surfaces rather than cylinders, they're sold specifically for lightly resurfacing discs. Be interested in seeing how well they work.
Update to the original post; I fitted the kit a couple of weeks ago, the discs cleaned up fairly well with a light abrasive mop prior to fitment and within 50 miles they hardly had any surface rust left on them. I have since done about 400 miles with the car having been put through its MOT last Friday so all is good.
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