Full lock clunking, brakes fail initially
Discussion
Hi
Peugeot 208 automatic.
Never had any issues.
Recently however when I reverse with near to or full lock or go forwards with near to or full lock I get 2 or 3 clunking sounds and then, when I apply the brakes they don't work initially unless I push the pedal all the way to the floor at least twice.
After this it is totally fine and runs as normal (not that I'm using it much now)
Took it to local ATS Garage who said they can't find anything wrong with the car, but had noticed the same issue.
Any ideas?
Peugeot 208 automatic.
Never had any issues.
Recently however when I reverse with near to or full lock or go forwards with near to or full lock I get 2 or 3 clunking sounds and then, when I apply the brakes they don't work initially unless I push the pedal all the way to the floor at least twice.
After this it is totally fine and runs as normal (not that I'm using it much now)
Took it to local ATS Garage who said they can't find anything wrong with the car, but had noticed the same issue.
Any ideas?
The fact the brakes do not work initially, but then do after 2 or 3 pumps suggests the brake pads have been pushed away from the brakes discs. You have to pump brakes exactly the same way when news ones have been fitted.
The knocking noise will be the sound of the brakes pads being pushed back. Initial reaction says they should be looking for buckled wheel hubs, worn wheel bearings, etc, but it would do it with no steering applied as well if they were faulty.
I'm only speculating, but I wonder if the drive shaft joints are worn and causing some odd wheel movement on full lock. They would also be tricky to pick up in a static inspection.
The knocking noise will be the sound of the brakes pads being pushed back. Initial reaction says they should be looking for buckled wheel hubs, worn wheel bearings, etc, but it would do it with no steering applied as well if they were faulty.
I'm only speculating, but I wonder if the drive shaft joints are worn and causing some odd wheel movement on full lock. They would also be tricky to pick up in a static inspection.
Sounds like the brake pads are being pushed back.
Usually caused by excessive movement of the brake disc.
Worn wheel bearings is a common cause.
Jack up, grip wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock & try to rock it.
IIRC the 208 doesn't use a taper roller wheel bearing & there should be NO detectable play.
(If you detect play get someone to apply the brakes. If the play remains then it's a suspension component & nothing to do with the brakes)
I can say from our 306 & 307s that the slightest play in the bearing results in noise.
ETA Duplicate the issue by driving on full lock then use the handbrake to stop, jack up & see if the pad to disc gap on one side is greater than the other. Would give you a better idea of which side is the problem.
Usually caused by excessive movement of the brake disc.
Worn wheel bearings is a common cause.
Jack up, grip wheel at 12 & 6 o'clock & try to rock it.
IIRC the 208 doesn't use a taper roller wheel bearing & there should be NO detectable play.
(If you detect play get someone to apply the brakes. If the play remains then it's a suspension component & nothing to do with the brakes)
I can say from our 306 & 307s that the slightest play in the bearing results in noise.
ETA Duplicate the issue by driving on full lock then use the handbrake to stop, jack up & see if the pad to disc gap on one side is greater than the other. Would give you a better idea of which side is the problem.
Edited by paintman on Friday 28th August 18:51
As others have said, pretty much the only explanation for this is a failed wheel bearing/loose hub nut.
The fact that the untrained chimps at your local fast fit can't find the issue is only justification to ensure you never go there again.
Make no bones about it, the issue you currently have is potentially VERY dangerous & needs sorting immediately.
The fact that the untrained chimps at your local fast fit can't find the issue is only justification to ensure you never go there again.
Make no bones about it, the issue you currently have is potentially VERY dangerous & needs sorting immediately.
Hello, I know this was 5 years ago but did you ever get this issue resolved? I have this exact same issue with my current car now, used car only purchased 2 months ago, warranty won’t cover it. Full lock to the left there is a knocking sound and the brake needs pushing a lot further down for it to stop, the rest of the time the brakes are completely fine, only issues when full lock to the left. I took mine to ATS and he said they can’t find the issue and that the brakes look fine. Booked it in somewhere else for this weekend but just trying to find possible causes before I take it In
As was said above, for this to happen the disc must be able to move in relation to the calliper when steering lock is on & pretty much the only way that can happen is a failed bearing or hub nut loose.
ETA.
It may well need to be diagnosed on a lift with weight on the wheels & turning full lock on.
ETA.
It may well need to be diagnosed on a lift with weight on the wheels & turning full lock on.
Worn wheel bearing should be easy to diagnose: jack the wheel up (leaving it on), then grab top and bottom and wiggle hard - is there any movement?
Other stuff it could be, in reducing order of likelihood/increasing order of difficulty to check:
Other stuff it could be, in reducing order of likelihood/increasing order of difficulty to check:
- Hub nut loose
- Caliper loose
- Balljoint worn*
- CVJ worn*
- ARB bushes or drop link worn*
- track rod ends worn*
- strut or top mount worn*
- All these rely on the brake issue being another, second, issue. For example if there's air in the system and it needs bleeding. But if the brakes behave like this ONLY when turning full lock, then the issues are linked to the same one issue.
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