Replacing brake hoses

[tim0409]

Hi

I’m currently in the process of replacing the brakes on my project Caddy, which has been sitting around for a few years and I’m slowly working through the issues as pre previous threads (cambelt/clutch/wiring etc). I attempted to bleed the brakes and of course the front nipples were seized solid, and whilst I’m sure I can repair them, parts for this model of Caddy are really cheap, so I decided to replace all the brake parts (ocd on my part). I’m replacing the front hoses, and just wondered what the best procedure is for connecting them to the fixed brake pipe without getting brake fluid everywhere. I have already bled the back brakes and the clutch (which feeds off the master cylinder).

Edited by tim0409 on Saturday 18th November 16:51

[vetrof]

Keep the brake pedal at the bottom of its travel before you start until you get everything connected again.

[Belle427]

i would just crack on and re bleed everything, if your quick you wont loose much fluid on the install.

[TwinKam]

vetrof said:

Keep the brake pedal at the bottom of its travel before you start until you get everything connected again.

It only needs to be depressed a small amount (an inch or two) in order to close off the inlet port in the master cylinder. You'll get a spurt of fluid when you undo the first union (or bleed screw if you want to catch it) but then no more leakage and you can take as long as you need to fit your hoses cleanly.
It should be noted that your pedal depressor needs to be supported so that it doesn't fall down and off the pedal when you first release the hydraulic pressure as above.

[Dave Brand]

Take the top off the fluid reservoir, cover it with cling film & replace the cap.

[stevieturbo]

TwinKam said:

It only needs to be depressed a small amount (an inch or two) in order to close off the inlet port in the master cylinder. You'll get a spurt of fluid when you undo the first union (or bleed screw if you want to catch it) but then no more leakage and you can take as long as you need to fit your hoses cleanly.
It should be noted that your pedal depressor needs to be supported so that it doesn't fall down and off the pedal when you first release the hydraulic pressure as above.

This. Or just clamp the hoses with an appropriate tool. But depressing the pedal slightly works fine.

whether replacing the fluid or not, it's always best to try and avoid allowing air in anywhere it doesn't need to be. It will make life easier bleeding overall, especially if intending to replace all the fluid

[tim0409]

Many thanks for all the helpful suggestions; I’m pretty much learning as I go at the moment, and probably overthinking things!

[TwinKam]

stevieturbo said:

TwinKam said:

It only needs to be depressed a small amount (an inch or two) in order to close off the inlet port in the master cylinder. You'll get a spurt of fluid when you undo the first union (or bleed screw if you want to catch it) but then no more leakage and you can take as long as you need to fit your hoses cleanly.
It should be noted that your pedal depressor needs to be supported so that it doesn't fall down and off the pedal when you first release the hydraulic pressure as above.

This. Or just clamp the hoses with an appropriate tool. But depressing the pedal slightly works fine.

whether replacing the fluid or not, it's always best to try and avoid allowing air in anywhere it doesn't need to be. It will make life easier bleeding overall, especially if intending to replace all the fluid

Clamping a hose doesn't prevent fluid loss when you're changing... a hose

[stevieturbo]

TwinKam said:

Clamping a hose doesn't prevent fluid loss when you're changing... a hose

clamp both ends of the hose ? lol