How to get the handbrake right for an autotest
Discussion
Had a go at an autotest - great fun! My handbrake isn't great though. It's as if it has some system on it that stops it from operating properly when the car is already moving. The handbrake did have some effect if pulled on really hard but it is not like an old-school handbrake when it just works if the car is moving or not. Is there any way I can make it behave like an old fashioned handbrake? The car is a Mk1 Suzuki Swift Sport.
Hope not a daft question. Any help is appreciated...
Hope not a daft question. Any help is appreciated...
A swift sport doesn’t have any interference on the handbrake.
It’s a cable straight to the rear callipers.
The problem is it’s a cable and discs on a light car with good rear grip.
As others have said you need a hydraulic link from the handbrake to the rear callipers.
Ebc ultimax pads just on the back may help a bit as they are quite grabby and don’t need heat to work.
It’s a cable straight to the rear callipers.
The problem is it’s a cable and discs on a light car with good rear grip.
As others have said you need a hydraulic link from the handbrake to the rear callipers.
Ebc ultimax pads just on the back may help a bit as they are quite grabby and don’t need heat to work.
With the standard setup, the handbrake is not really up to the job on Autotests.
It can be wound up using the nut under the lever, however it doesn't fix the issue and then the cable stretches and you are back to square one.
Adding a separate hydraulic circuit is also tricky as you would cause issues with the ABS/ESP systems.
Other than adding additional small callipers, there is not much that can be improved.
Mine always worked better on on side or the other, rarely both as good as the other.
Learning to not use it, can however be quicker.
It can be wound up using the nut under the lever, however it doesn't fix the issue and then the cable stretches and you are back to square one.
Adding a separate hydraulic circuit is also tricky as you would cause issues with the ABS/ESP systems.
Other than adding additional small callipers, there is not much that can be improved.
Mine always worked better on on side or the other, rarely both as good as the other.
Learning to not use it, can however be quicker.
SimonC123 said:
Thanks PaulV. You've got me curious! On a tight autotest track - how do you avoid the car naturally taking too wider line without kicking the rear end out with the handbrake? Are you suggesting using lift-off oversteer or similar?
Firstly, congratulations on 'finding' autotesting as a sport, personally I think its probably £/smile the best value motorsport on the planet. Young family has put that game on halt for me (lots of other hobbies) but I predominantly completed in the Westfield, with a atb diff, do not a lot of handbraking and the right foot could be used when required. Although the escort drums worked fine too.
However generally, and watching the swifts/nova/etc and doing a touch in the 316 e36 compact , often you are as quick to pick a softer line and keep the speed up a bit, coming out wider on the entry, and or widening out the exit, you can get a higher stop speed for only minimal extra distance, which especially on a grass test can be the way to do it, walk it and try different lines, more turn-in points around a bit, the apex might not be at the cone.
I never got good really, but it was a lot of fun. From club level evening events, through to weekend events as part of the BTRDA nationals.
Even at the top where is got very competitive it was always friendly.
PaulV said:
With the standard setup, the handbrake is not really up to the job on Autotests.
It can be wound up using the nut under the lever, however it doesn't fix the issue and then the cable stretches and you are back to square one.
Adding a separate hydraulic circuit is also tricky as you would cause issues with the ABS/ESP systems.
Other than adding additional small callipers, there is not much that can be improved.
Mine always worked better on on side or the other, rarely both as good as the other.
Learning to not use it, can however be quicker.
I would imagine it would be prudent to disable any such systems before doing an autotest. ABS/ESP are the total oppositve of what an autotest is about.It can be wound up using the nut under the lever, however it doesn't fix the issue and then the cable stretches and you are back to square one.
Adding a separate hydraulic circuit is also tricky as you would cause issues with the ABS/ESP systems.
Other than adding additional small callipers, there is not much that can be improved.
Mine always worked better on on side or the other, rarely both as good as the other.
Learning to not use it, can however be quicker.
GreenV8S said:
I know the Swift doesn't have much power, but you should still be able to get a little left foot braking to supplement the handbrake - if you've got the time to do that.
Yep, this.LFB was what I used to do when doing grass slalom autotests in my company <cough> Astra 1400L Mk.2 many decades ago, which was pretty gutless, and worked well enough, for the faster stuff. Handbrake wasn't that bad on it, but, not great, so LFB was the way to go.
Loved doing grass slalom autotests back then.
SimonC123 said:
Thanks PaulV. You've got me curious! On a tight autotest track - how do you avoid the car naturally taking too wider line without kicking the rear end out with the handbrake? Are you suggesting using lift-off oversteer or similar?
I only used it on grass for Autotests, difficult to explain but getting it slowed before the cone tended to allow it to come around, a nip on the handbrake now and then could help. Spent a day sharing the car with a very competent Antipodean chap, who was great to learn from.
Sadly our club has lost the use of the venue and I now have moved away from the Swift to a BMW E46.
https://fuse-box.info/suzuki/suzuki-swift-2004-201...
Pulled one of the engine bay ones out to disable ABS
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