Seized Caliper Bolts
Discussion
Hi all,
Got a bit of an issue with a car I was trying to change the discs/pads/bearings on. One of the front, lower caliper bolts sheared and the one on the other side is stuck fast, the upper two came out with the impact wrench.
On the bolt that is stuck fast, I have been trying various locktite products and WD40 in combination with 220nm electric impact wrench all to no avail. The other one was sheared using my normally tried and proven method of extension ie big bloody jack handle on the end of a breaker bar.
The plan was just to keep spraying it with WD40 and going back every few hours for another go with the impact wrench but no luck after two days.
Is there a penetrant someone can recommend? Unfortunately I don't have an oxy setup but I have tried a propane torch. Nothing seems to budge it. I don't think the discs have been off in 13 years.
Any great suggestions on removing the sheared bolt? Gather the usual, drill, extractor etc.
Thanks,
LL
Got a bit of an issue with a car I was trying to change the discs/pads/bearings on. One of the front, lower caliper bolts sheared and the one on the other side is stuck fast, the upper two came out with the impact wrench.
On the bolt that is stuck fast, I have been trying various locktite products and WD40 in combination with 220nm electric impact wrench all to no avail. The other one was sheared using my normally tried and proven method of extension ie big bloody jack handle on the end of a breaker bar.
The plan was just to keep spraying it with WD40 and going back every few hours for another go with the impact wrench but no luck after two days.
Is there a penetrant someone can recommend? Unfortunately I don't have an oxy setup but I have tried a propane torch. Nothing seems to budge it. I don't think the discs have been off in 13 years.
Any great suggestions on removing the sheared bolt? Gather the usual, drill, extractor etc.
Thanks,
LL
Edited by Lagerlout on Tuesday 14th September 14:39
You'll need a solid metal rod & large metal headed hammer. Position rod directly on top of said bolt then give it a few short sharp clouts with the hammer sending the force through the length of the bolt. This shock treatment transmits through the bolt and should partially releave the stuck threads and allow for easier removal. May need a few goes if its really stubborn but its the best method i've found.
Once the bolt starts to move only then is it worth applying any form of lubrication liquid and then best to do up, undo a few times allowing the liquid to work its way down the thread before fully removing the bolt otherwise if its really rusty you run the risk of it either a) siezing again mid removal or b) buggering up the threads.
Buzz guns are great but in my experience sometimes they do more harm than good when compared to good old hand tools where you can get more of a feel for what is going on.
As for removal of sheered bolt, drilling and removal of remains of bolt is best option. With any luck you should get it out without the need for a helicoil but still best to run a tap down to ensure threads are in good order.
Once the bolt starts to move only then is it worth applying any form of lubrication liquid and then best to do up, undo a few times allowing the liquid to work its way down the thread before fully removing the bolt otherwise if its really rusty you run the risk of it either a) siezing again mid removal or b) buggering up the threads.
Buzz guns are great but in my experience sometimes they do more harm than good when compared to good old hand tools where you can get more of a feel for what is going on.
As for removal of sheered bolt, drilling and removal of remains of bolt is best option. With any luck you should get it out without the need for a helicoil but still best to run a tap down to ensure threads are in good order.
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