Rust Conversion

[Brabus Jord]

evening all.

i am undertaking a restoration of a Austin seven Ruby (1936) and as im sure you can guess it has some surface rust in areas.

What is the best product to convert the rust into hard metal (if such thing exists) full on rot that can be found in the floor will be cut out but its the smaller areas that have rust on the surface.

here are some pics of the project.

ignore the bench seat as i will put a new floor in but you can see the wheel well has a brown glow to it.




cheers in advance.

[PigFilth]

POR15.

Lots of threads on this.

[OldSkoolRS]

I'd still recommend that you give any surface rust a going over with my favourite rust removing tool:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ANGLE-GRINDER-WHEEL-BRUSH-...

A wire twisted knot wheel fitted to an angle grinder does a great job of removing paint, dirt and rust leaving the metal underneath clean and bright (though sometimes a bit holey). Then you can treat the metal with POR15 or whatever your favourite rust convertor/primer knowing that it's not going to come back in a hurry.

[gsd2000]

Bilt hamber deox c, it removes rust instead of converting it.

They also do a rust convertor which works well called hydrate 80, but you do need to overcoat it to maximum durability

[PJ S]

Speak to Bilt Hamber, they'll advise what's best.

[V8covin]

you'd be better off removing all the rust with a sand blaster than trying to convert it into something more stable.
Whatever treatment you apply will only be a temporary fix

[OldSkoolRS]

PJ S said:

Speak to Bilt Hamber, they'll advise what's best.

They are honest too: I made up a list of items I thought I'd need and they told me that I didn't need one of them. I think I just need deox gel (or deox C for parts that can be soaked) and then the zinc primer electrox, they said I didn't need to use the hydrate 80 as well. I will be removing as much surface rust mechically first before applying any deox, which is what I would also recommend to the OP.