What product to protect new paint?
Discussion
Hi folks, I've just had my Cerbera resprayed (oil based 2k paint if it makes a difference) and really want to know which wax / product I should apply in order to protect it as well as possible.
I know very little about detailing, so please excuse me if this is an ignorant question. However, my primary concern is to protect the paint as well as possible from damage and (if it's not asking too much) stonechips!
I know very little about detailing, so please excuse me if this is an ignorant question. However, my primary concern is to protect the paint as well as possible from damage and (if it's not asking too much) stonechips!
First, assuming it's been oven cured, it'll still need another 4-6 weeks to finish curing fully.
Use whatever wax/sealant you like after that, but be under no illusion that it'll prevent stonechips!
For that you're looking at Ventureshield or the like. Only that protects against road rash, and again only after the paint has finished curing.
Use whatever wax/sealant you like after that, but be under no illusion that it'll prevent stonechips!
For that you're looking at Ventureshield or the like. Only that protects against road rash, and again only after the paint has finished curing.
Whilst they have some knowledge specifically to do with repairing/replacing damaged panels, glass, and painting (inc prep), once it's out of the oven, buffed (if required), then they don't really concern themselves with what happens after that.
I'd even say they don't know about some of the stuff they use in the final stage - 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Rosa Polish (iirc), which are silicone heavy.
This will prevent or increase the time taken for the residual curing process to complete (think of it as tiny air bubbles moving through a very viscous medium.
They can't escape to the atmosphere if you've something blocking the micropores on the surface.
The advice I've given above is confirmation of what I'd read online by well respected industry figures (albeit mainly US ones, using different paint systems) working in the sector for 20+ years, by a technical advisor (or higher) at PPG.
When asked if the timeframe was PPG-specific, he proffered it was pretty much the norm.
Even if it was only a matter of 1-2 weeks, the extra as purely precautionary is no big deal in the grand scheme of things.
It'd be a different matter if the timeframe were 6-8 months!
Just clean the car carefully, as you should, park away from trees & rail stations, to minimise sap & industrial fallout/iron debris.
Protect all other surfaces as normal, that haven't been painted.
I'd even say they don't know about some of the stuff they use in the final stage - 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Rosa Polish (iirc), which are silicone heavy.
This will prevent or increase the time taken for the residual curing process to complete (think of it as tiny air bubbles moving through a very viscous medium.
They can't escape to the atmosphere if you've something blocking the micropores on the surface.
The advice I've given above is confirmation of what I'd read online by well respected industry figures (albeit mainly US ones, using different paint systems) working in the sector for 20+ years, by a technical advisor (or higher) at PPG.
When asked if the timeframe was PPG-specific, he proffered it was pretty much the norm.
Even if it was only a matter of 1-2 weeks, the extra as purely precautionary is no big deal in the grand scheme of things.
It'd be a different matter if the timeframe were 6-8 months!
Just clean the car carefully, as you should, park away from trees & rail stations, to minimise sap & industrial fallout/iron debris.
Protect all other surfaces as normal, that haven't been painted.
PJ S said:
I'd even say they don't know about some of the stuff they use in the final stage - 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Rosa Polish (iirc), which are silicone heavy.
Both of those are actually silicone-free!PJ S said:
Just clean the car carefully, as you should, park away from trees & rail stations, to minimise sap & industrial fallout/iron debris.
Protect all other surfaces as normal, that haven't been painted.
That would be my advice too.Protect all other surfaces as normal, that haven't been painted.
TallPaul said:
PJ S said:
I'd even say they don't know about some of the stuff they use in the final stage - 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Rosa Polish (iirc), which are silicone heavy.
Both of those are actually silicone-free!Need to try and trace where I'd seen that.
Well that didn't take long - http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/EU-A... - and the brain seems to've been working fine after all.
Don't know if that was it or I'd seen more references to silicone elsewhere....I'll have a deeper look tomorrow.
PJ S said:
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/EU-A... - and the brain seems to've been working fine after all.
Don't know if that was it or I'd seen more references to silicone elsewhere....I'll have a deeper look tomorrow.
Thats interesting! I've always assumed it was silicone free, most bodyshops use it do so because whilst you do need to give it a good degreaseing to remove it, it doesnt "contaminate" the paintshop enviroment like other silicone based products.Don't know if that was it or I'd seen more references to silicone elsewhere....I'll have a deeper look tomorrow.
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