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Hi guys, in the middle of sanding my alloys down for a refurb, they were badly kerbed when I got the car and I'm now fed up with them.
With regards to sanding them down, I've started sanding one of them, got part of it down to the metal but now I've read online that this isn't a good idea.
Will priming them as they are be alright or will other steps need to be taken?
To cure the kerbing I was going to use metalik, is this the right stuff for the job?
Last thing, I got a bit over enthusiastic with a sanding attachment for a drill and took it to the metal, leaving a weird groove on the wheel, should I just use filler here like I'm going to on the edges?
Cheers for any help, Clarkey
Hi guys, in the middle of sanding my alloys down for a refurb, they were badly kerbed when I got the car and I'm now fed up with them.
With regards to sanding them down, I've started sanding one of them, got part of it down to the metal but now I've read online that this isn't a good idea.
Will priming them as they are be alright or will other steps need to be taken?
To cure the kerbing I was going to use metalik, is this the right stuff for the job?
Last thing, I got a bit over enthusiastic with a sanding attachment for a drill and took it to the metal, leaving a weird groove on the wheel, should I just use filler here like I'm going to on the edges?
Cheers for any help, Clarkey
I'm going to do mine in the next couple of weeks...use an etch primer on the bare alloy and then a normal primer once dry but straight away if that makes sense...
For the scratch and kerbing, you can get u-pon proper alloy filler...like p38 but with aluminium particals which makes it harder apparently, but also a lot more expensive!
Hardest thing is vetting an smooth layer of lacquer on top of the base coat from an aerosol...possible but you need to get enough on to fflow but not too much to produce runs...
For the scratch and kerbing, you can get u-pon proper alloy filler...like p38 but with aluminium particals which makes it harder apparently, but also a lot more expensive!
Hardest thing is vetting an smooth layer of lacquer on top of the base coat from an aerosol...possible but you need to get enough on to fflow but not too much to produce runs...
Just done mine with rattle cans and picked up a few top tips.
Where damaged I applied epoxy filler over etch primer (the stuff that comes in a "liquorice stick" that you knead together). I sanded back and put normal primer over filler (as etch primer instructions says not to go directly over filler). I used the primer from the Halfords touch up sticks for minor blemishes, as it is high build and fills in small blemishes.
Once I'd filled all the obvious damage and sanded back the whole wheel I did a coat of etch primer, and then a light top coat as a guide coat. Now this is the difference between a good job and an excellent one. With the guide coat on, carefully look for blemishes. They will be more obvious due to the gloss top coat. Fill any that you find and prime any bare areas before lightly top coating them. Then sand the wheel back with well-wetted 1200 wet and dry. Repeat if any more blemishes are found. They have a way of hiding until the painting is finished. If left they can also look worse after a few weeks as paint sinks a bit as it cures!
When finally applying top coat, do it in light even coats, and make sure you get into the different angles with even paint coverage. Keep the can moving. If you get a run let it dry thoroughly and sand back. I'd do 4 or 5 light coats, until there is an even gloss over the whole wheel, not forgetting the edges and the outer lip.
Leave for 24 hours or more (as per instructions on can), then buff the wheel lightly (remember paint is still soft) with thoroughly wet Scotch-Brite pad to give the lacquer a key, making sure not to go through to the primer on any edges. The instructions on the lacquer can said use 1200 grit for a key (lacquer needs it to bond onto) but on a metallic paint this can leave marks, hence the Scotch-Brite.
Lacquer is more runny than paint, meaning it is very easy to leave runs, so a slightly different technique is needed. This involves a greater distance between the spray nozzle and the work, and move the can more quickly when spraying. Adjust technique as you get the hang of it. Again, several light coats and make sure all surfaces are covered well. Then let it cure somewhere warm for a good couple of weeks before polishing (if needed) and putting tyres on to minimise the likelihood of paint damage (especially if clip-on balance weights are used), as fresh paint is soft and can take weeks to cure fully.
When torquing up wheel bolts on the car for the first time, remember that paint on the mating faces where the bolts torque can possibly cause problems with wheel loosening though this is more of a problem with powder coated wheels. Still worth checking though. Best to torque bolts up, undo and retorque a couple of times which will help remove the paint, and then keep a close eye on bolt tightness for a few months. Use factory torque settings and don't be tempted to overtighten to compensate!
Where damaged I applied epoxy filler over etch primer (the stuff that comes in a "liquorice stick" that you knead together). I sanded back and put normal primer over filler (as etch primer instructions says not to go directly over filler). I used the primer from the Halfords touch up sticks for minor blemishes, as it is high build and fills in small blemishes.
Once I'd filled all the obvious damage and sanded back the whole wheel I did a coat of etch primer, and then a light top coat as a guide coat. Now this is the difference between a good job and an excellent one. With the guide coat on, carefully look for blemishes. They will be more obvious due to the gloss top coat. Fill any that you find and prime any bare areas before lightly top coating them. Then sand the wheel back with well-wetted 1200 wet and dry. Repeat if any more blemishes are found. They have a way of hiding until the painting is finished. If left they can also look worse after a few weeks as paint sinks a bit as it cures!
When finally applying top coat, do it in light even coats, and make sure you get into the different angles with even paint coverage. Keep the can moving. If you get a run let it dry thoroughly and sand back. I'd do 4 or 5 light coats, until there is an even gloss over the whole wheel, not forgetting the edges and the outer lip.
Leave for 24 hours or more (as per instructions on can), then buff the wheel lightly (remember paint is still soft) with thoroughly wet Scotch-Brite pad to give the lacquer a key, making sure not to go through to the primer on any edges. The instructions on the lacquer can said use 1200 grit for a key (lacquer needs it to bond onto) but on a metallic paint this can leave marks, hence the Scotch-Brite.
Lacquer is more runny than paint, meaning it is very easy to leave runs, so a slightly different technique is needed. This involves a greater distance between the spray nozzle and the work, and move the can more quickly when spraying. Adjust technique as you get the hang of it. Again, several light coats and make sure all surfaces are covered well. Then let it cure somewhere warm for a good couple of weeks before polishing (if needed) and putting tyres on to minimise the likelihood of paint damage (especially if clip-on balance weights are used), as fresh paint is soft and can take weeks to cure fully.
When torquing up wheel bolts on the car for the first time, remember that paint on the mating faces where the bolts torque can possibly cause problems with wheel loosening though this is more of a problem with powder coated wheels. Still worth checking though. Best to torque bolts up, undo and retorque a couple of times which will help remove the paint, and then keep a close eye on bolt tightness for a few months. Use factory torque settings and don't be tempted to overtighten to compensate!
Edited by Boz07 on Wednesday 27th March 15:42
Boz07 said:
Just done mine with rattle cans and picked up a few top tips.
Brilliant, that will be of much help!Ive got them mainly sanded down and started filling using metalik, going to finish sanding them tonight and prepare for the spraying hopefully some time this week.
Cheers for everyones help!
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