Newbie with a Rotary Polisher...how bad can it get?
Discussion
Hello Dear Community,
I may have went ahead and just bought myself some polish, wax and a rotary polisher.
Now, the first thing I will be asked is why not a DA..... because there a as near as makes no difference no DA polisher easily attainable here in Turkey.
Anyway.
What I have in front of me is the following:
Rotary polisher (1000-3000prm) with 3 6 inch pads. Orange (cutting), Blue( polishing) and Black (finishing).
Farecla Advanced G3 Liquid Compound (seems to be quite agressive)
Meguiars Ultimate Polish
Meguiars NXT 2.0 Wax
Meguiars Clay Kit
Now, after some reading and consideration I think I will start with the black pad, Ultimate Polish and 1200rpm max.
The car is a 2006 Alfa GT in Stromboli Grey.
The thing that kind of "scares" me are all the horror stories about rotaty polishers.
Is it really that dangerous when going on about it with some common sense and some basic understanding of physics?
I may have went ahead and just bought myself some polish, wax and a rotary polisher.
Now, the first thing I will be asked is why not a DA..... because there a as near as makes no difference no DA polisher easily attainable here in Turkey.
Anyway.
What I have in front of me is the following:
Rotary polisher (1000-3000prm) with 3 6 inch pads. Orange (cutting), Blue( polishing) and Black (finishing).
Farecla Advanced G3 Liquid Compound (seems to be quite agressive)
Meguiars Ultimate Polish
Meguiars NXT 2.0 Wax
Meguiars Clay Kit
Now, after some reading and consideration I think I will start with the black pad, Ultimate Polish and 1200rpm max.
The car is a 2006 Alfa GT in Stromboli Grey.
The thing that kind of "scares" me are all the horror stories about rotaty polishers.
Is it really that dangerous when going on about it with some common sense and some basic understanding of physics?
Usual issues are:
1. Leaving it one position for too long which builds up heat surprisingly quickly resulting in deep paint removal. This can be a particular issue with non DA rotary polishers (the pad just rotates & doesn't also move around at random).
2. Leaving it in place for too long on swage lines resulting in going through the clear coat. Bonnets seem to be a particular favourite & I've had a fair few calls from people saying they were polishing the bonnet when they suddenly noticed a little dull spot which they polished a bit more & it got bigger, can I help? The answer is that you've gone through the clear onto the colour coat & you require a bonnet respray.
3. Not using lubricant - usually water - as directed resulting in heat build up followed by No 1 above.
Note that G3 is an abrasive - as are many polishes - and whenever you use an abrasive you are removing some of the surface. The more you use it the more you remove & eventually you'll either go through the clearcoat down to the colour coat on metallics/pearls or through the colour coat & expose the primer on solid colours.
Read the instructions on the containers & do as it says. If in any doubt, don't.
1. Leaving it one position for too long which builds up heat surprisingly quickly resulting in deep paint removal. This can be a particular issue with non DA rotary polishers (the pad just rotates & doesn't also move around at random).
2. Leaving it in place for too long on swage lines resulting in going through the clear coat. Bonnets seem to be a particular favourite & I've had a fair few calls from people saying they were polishing the bonnet when they suddenly noticed a little dull spot which they polished a bit more & it got bigger, can I help? The answer is that you've gone through the clear onto the colour coat & you require a bonnet respray.
3. Not using lubricant - usually water - as directed resulting in heat build up followed by No 1 above.
Note that G3 is an abrasive - as are many polishes - and whenever you use an abrasive you are removing some of the surface. The more you use it the more you remove & eventually you'll either go through the clearcoat down to the colour coat on metallics/pearls or through the colour coat & expose the primer on solid colours.
Read the instructions on the containers & do as it says. If in any doubt, don't.
Edited by paintman on Tuesday 1st March 13:02
First of all, thank you all for your input.
Alfa paint is generally quite soft.
My goal is to get used to using a rotary, never used one before and therefore I am inclined to start with the "softest" combination, e.g. Meguiars Ultimate Polish on a finishing pad in order to get some experience.
I am not trying to sort out any major defects right now, just want to get some shine onto the car and, as eluded and more importantly, get experience.
After some months of using the polisher regularly (not exlusively on the Alfa of course) I will tackle trying to sort our paint defects.
Alfa paint is generally quite soft.
My goal is to get used to using a rotary, never used one before and therefore I am inclined to start with the "softest" combination, e.g. Meguiars Ultimate Polish on a finishing pad in order to get some experience.
I am not trying to sort out any major defects right now, just want to get some shine onto the car and, as eluded and more importantly, get experience.
After some months of using the polisher regularly (not exlusively on the Alfa of course) I will tackle trying to sort our paint defects.
Edited by tektas on Tuesday 1st March 13:41
I have just done an SRT-6 I bought and my advice is to watch some you tube video's, meguiars and machine manufacturers have some good ones that are really useful.
Be really careful when you clay, keep it very well lubricated and spotlessly clean or you will need to polish out the marks you make!
Modern cutting compounds degrade to prevent burning the paint, start on slow speed, spread it out and build up speed keeping it moving and you will be fine. If in doubt, don't over polish it as you can always go back.
Good luck.
I am going to start Saturday morning and will first concentrate on a 15"*15" square on the bonnet as a test. I will clay, polish and wax the area as my test spot and will go ahead with the rest of the car if the outcome looks acceptable for me.
I will take my time though. I think it will take me at least two weekends for the whole car
I will take my time though. I think it will take me at least two weekends for the whole car
Tape.
Since your learning I would tape up certain areas. For instance, your doing the bonnet, put tape on the leading edge of the wing, that way you can machine to the edge of the bonnet without removing paint from the wing as you go. Same can be done for doors, boot etc.
Time.
It takes what it takes. Dont rush it, mistakes happen when you rush.
Practice.
Don't try for 100%, work on light scratch/swirl removal and adding gloss rather than going for deep scratches.
Relax.
A death grip and fighting the machine will make the job harder and longer. What what the machine and polish are doing.
Since your learning I would tape up certain areas. For instance, your doing the bonnet, put tape on the leading edge of the wing, that way you can machine to the edge of the bonnet without removing paint from the wing as you go. Same can be done for doors, boot etc.
Time.
It takes what it takes. Dont rush it, mistakes happen when you rush.
Practice.
Don't try for 100%, work on light scratch/swirl removal and adding gloss rather than going for deep scratches.
Relax.
A death grip and fighting the machine will make the job harder and longer. What what the machine and polish are doing.
I havent seen any marks yet. If I see some I will tackle them slowly but surely with some polish.
For the time being I will gaze at the car and be amazed
Although it seems as if it is dirty again. Stupid Turkish weather with its dust and everything.
I will rinse it this afternoon and dry it with a microfiber towel, should put the wax to good test. I am hoping for the mandatory beading shot
For the time being I will gaze at the car and be amazed
Although it seems as if it is dirty again. Stupid Turkish weather with its dust and everything.
I will rinse it this afternoon and dry it with a microfiber towel, should put the wax to good test. I am hoping for the mandatory beading shot
Go to a scrap place and get some scrap panels. Practice on these before you work on your car.
You can learn how to handle the polisher and what to look for during polishing....
Effect of different polish grades, time of polishing, heat build up, good technique etc.
You can also test scratches and marks of different depth so you know when to stop! Prevent over polishing trying to get rid of deep scratches and marks.
You could also practice on your fridge! I did and got brownie points for a nice finish!
You can learn how to handle the polisher and what to look for during polishing....
Effect of different polish grades, time of polishing, heat build up, good technique etc.
You can also test scratches and marks of different depth so you know when to stop! Prevent over polishing trying to get rid of deep scratches and marks.
You could also practice on your fridge! I did and got brownie points for a nice finish!
Edited by sospan on Friday 11th March 16:16
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff