Painting with water based basecoat at home for first time
Discussion
Ok, my usual painter too busy as usual, other guy ballsed it up, so i decided to paint panel myself,with aerosol cans.
Long story but for various reasons top half of my motorcycle panel i've just redone myself (solvent based black) and the bottom third is purple water based, which he gave me back with dirt in finish.
So i've refinished top half already which i'm happy with, then smoothed out the purple water based part ready to repaint and relacquer.
I have a small space heater, and a hand held heat gun for drying the paint. I have read water based has to be bone dry, then i lacquer it, is that correct?
Here's a pic of the panel.
Long story but for various reasons top half of my motorcycle panel i've just redone myself (solvent based black) and the bottom third is purple water based, which he gave me back with dirt in finish.
So i've refinished top half already which i'm happy with, then smoothed out the purple water based part ready to repaint and relacquer.
I have a small space heater, and a hand held heat gun for drying the paint. I have read water based has to be bone dry, then i lacquer it, is that correct?
Here's a pic of the panel.
Edited by robbocop33 on Monday 4th September 14:40
Water based is designed to dry by evaporation - so passing a gentle air flow across (parallel to, and not directly onto!) the surface will help that process.
Gently passing warm air across the surface will speed up the evaporation process.
If done correctly you should see (if looking carefully) that very gradually (from the edges) the paint changes from a freshly applied 'wet' look to a 'dry satin' look.
Keep moving the air flow across the paint until it all looks satin and however long that process took keep moving air across the whole area for at least half as long again so that the evaporation process is thorough.
And repeat until enough coats have been applied (this should normally be - one half coat, and two/tree full coats)
The thing you don't want to do is make the evaporation too fast by blowing air directly onto the surface - this will cause the paint to skin over trapping moisture under the (slightly plasticised) skin.
Any trapped moisture in any coat will be held in by the successive coats, and then it will be finally trapped by the lacquer - and any moisture will bite back!
Gently passing warm air across the surface will speed up the evaporation process.
If done correctly you should see (if looking carefully) that very gradually (from the edges) the paint changes from a freshly applied 'wet' look to a 'dry satin' look.
Keep moving the air flow across the paint until it all looks satin and however long that process took keep moving air across the whole area for at least half as long again so that the evaporation process is thorough.
And repeat until enough coats have been applied (this should normally be - one half coat, and two/tree full coats)
The thing you don't want to do is make the evaporation too fast by blowing air directly onto the surface - this will cause the paint to skin over trapping moisture under the (slightly plasticised) skin.
Any trapped moisture in any coat will be held in by the successive coats, and then it will be finally trapped by the lacquer - and any moisture will bite back!
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