removing scratches
Discussion
Try the finger nail test as above.
Do the scratches disappear when wet?
If so, they will PROBABLY polish out BUT be very careful if a metallic/pearl/mica/xirillic colour coat as you are taking clearcoat off & the risk is you will go through it to the colour coat & then it's game over & panel respray.
With a solid colour you are removing the colour coat & the risk is the primer peeping through if you get it too thin with the same cure required.
I get a number of calls from people who have done exactly that "I need a bit of advice, I was machine polishing the bonnet & noticed a tiny dull spot so I polished it & it got bigger'. It's usually a swage line on the bonnet & best I can do is recommend a couple of bodyshops for a bonnet respray.
So you may be better taking the 'eye' off it - as in making it less noticeable - instead of taking the risk by trying to get it completely flat.
Do the scratches disappear when wet?
If so, they will PROBABLY polish out BUT be very careful if a metallic/pearl/mica/xirillic colour coat as you are taking clearcoat off & the risk is you will go through it to the colour coat & then it's game over & panel respray.
With a solid colour you are removing the colour coat & the risk is the primer peeping through if you get it too thin with the same cure required.
I get a number of calls from people who have done exactly that "I need a bit of advice, I was machine polishing the bonnet & noticed a tiny dull spot so I polished it & it got bigger'. It's usually a swage line on the bonnet & best I can do is recommend a couple of bodyshops for a bonnet respray.
So you may be better taking the 'eye' off it - as in making it less noticeable - instead of taking the risk by trying to get it completely flat.
They're all abrasive & all work by removing material. The fine ones will take longer & are best used as finishing compounds with a very soft mop.
Unless it's a car you've owned from new so have an idea of what's been done to it you don't know how much has been taken off by previous owners - especially if it's been flatted to reduce/remove any texture.
A paint gauge might give you an idea but it isn't foolproof.
I've just looked up the formula I have for Shadow Black & it's a mica pearl effect so will be clearcoat over base.
ETA I don't know whether using polish would fill the scratch & that would be better answered by the detailing specialists.
Unless it's a car you've owned from new so have an idea of what's been done to it you don't know how much has been taken off by previous owners - especially if it's been flatted to reduce/remove any texture.
A paint gauge might give you an idea but it isn't foolproof.
I've just looked up the formula I have for Shadow Black & it's a mica pearl effect so will be clearcoat over base.
ETA I don't know whether using polish would fill the scratch & that would be better answered by the detailing specialists.
Edited by paintman on Saturday 3rd March 18:10
ive had it from new for about 1 year now. from new i had diamond brite applied but that has proved to be completley useless (thats if it was actually put on in the first place which i have my doubts). based on this what approach woudl you take? i have all these swirls and light surface scratches pretty much all over the car.
ive been considering getting CSP ceramic hybrid 9H or CSP ceramic hybrid 7H after ive got these defects fixed. but its quite expensive!
ive been considering getting CSP ceramic hybrid 9H or CSP ceramic hybrid 7H after ive got these defects fixed. but its quite expensive!
Buy and learn. (Can be expensive but you end up with all your own kit and can take as long as you want.
Pay a detailer. (Can work out cheaper and if going sealant they will have (or at least should) the kit if its one that needs ir baking etc)
If it's a daily that lives outside:
DA kit, decent wax or simple sealant from cquartz, nanolex etc
Learn how to do a safe wash and maybe give it a light engancement once a year (say end of march early april) and use srp or a glaze every other month to keep on top of it.
It show car. Pay a detailer.
Pay a detailer. (Can work out cheaper and if going sealant they will have (or at least should) the kit if its one that needs ir baking etc)
If it's a daily that lives outside:
DA kit, decent wax or simple sealant from cquartz, nanolex etc
Learn how to do a safe wash and maybe give it a light engancement once a year (say end of march early april) and use srp or a glaze every other month to keep on top of it.
It show car. Pay a detailer.
thanks for the info so far.
I have a DA polisher. What type of pads would I need to use with the DA? Also with regard to what I originally bought ( 3m perfect itpolish) to get rid of these scratches, is the srp a better option then?
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/cat_2.html
thanks
I have a DA polisher. What type of pads would I need to use with the DA? Also with regard to what I originally bought ( 3m perfect itpolish) to get rid of these scratches, is the srp a better option then?
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/cat_2.html
thanks
Edited by dev2017 on Sunday 4th March 15:17
I didnt get any pads with the DA. I was going to get some from below. So looking for pads for the polishing part + scratch removal and guessing a waxing pad
CleanYourCar
for polishes and compounds. At the moment all I have is 3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish. So hoping to find out if I can use this for the task and if not what would you reccomend?
for wax - I have Collinite 476S - Super Doublecoat Auto Wax
and to clear the rubber and plastic from polish\Wax It was mentioned to use "Gtechniq - W5 Citrus All Purpose Cleaner" which I have also. But having tried a bit of it, it didnt seem to do much.
thankyou
CleanYourCar
for polishes and compounds. At the moment all I have is 3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish. So hoping to find out if I can use this for the task and if not what would you reccomend?
for wax - I have Collinite 476S - Super Doublecoat Auto Wax
and to clear the rubber and plastic from polish\Wax It was mentioned to use "Gtechniq - W5 Citrus All Purpose Cleaner" which I have also. But having tried a bit of it, it didnt seem to do much.
thankyou
Edited by dev2017 on Monday 5th March 07:12
Before you get in to deep with buying alot of stuff......
Give Matt at Obsiden Detailing a call, see if he will do a training day with you on your car.
This will involve teaching you the basic of machine correction on your car, so not only do you learn how to do it, but you have a corrected car at the end.
Money well spent.
In the mean time; CYC cheap pads will do fine, get the Menzerna pack of 250ml (probably just get away with 2 bottles to be honest, you dont need a heavy cut at the moment).
Glass cleaner (like AutoGlym Fast Glass) will remove polish and clean up trim.
Envy Valeting Filler Killer also do a very good job.
Your lsp is fine.
Give Matt at Obsiden Detailing a call, see if he will do a training day with you on your car.
This will involve teaching you the basic of machine correction on your car, so not only do you learn how to do it, but you have a corrected car at the end.
Money well spent.
In the mean time; CYC cheap pads will do fine, get the Menzerna pack of 250ml (probably just get away with 2 bottles to be honest, you dont need a heavy cut at the moment).
Glass cleaner (like AutoGlym Fast Glass) will remove polish and clean up trim.
Envy Valeting Filler Killer also do a very good job.
Your lsp is fine.
thanks! sorry for all the questions, i want to make sure im doing this right from the off as quite new to this. will certainly look into giving him a call. With regard to the menzerna 250ml. Which bottles exactly are you reffering to? Medium cut?
e.g. Menzerna Power Finish PF2500, Menzerna - Medium Cut 2200 or even the finer ones?
then would I use my 3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish for the final finish?
for the pads - for the cutting part - im assuming as it says on the tin - get a cutting pad? (is compound pad the same thing?)
for the final part of polishing I notice you can get dedicated polishing pads or finishing pads. but im not sure what the difference is between the two?
or can I just use one type of pad for it all?
Would you reccomend waxing at the end with a pad or by hand? is there a specific pad for it?
e.g. Menzerna Power Finish PF2500, Menzerna - Medium Cut 2200 or even the finer ones?
then would I use my 3M Perfect-it III Ultrafina SE Polish for the final finish?
for the pads - for the cutting part - im assuming as it says on the tin - get a cutting pad? (is compound pad the same thing?)
for the final part of polishing I notice you can get dedicated polishing pads or finishing pads. but im not sure what the difference is between the two?
or can I just use one type of pad for it all?
Would you reccomend waxing at the end with a pad or by hand? is there a specific pad for it?
I appreciate that you want to get it all done ASAP but I would strongly suggest you follow the advice to contact a good professional & either watch them as they do it & pick their brains or get them to show you how to do it - the training day idea would be best & well worth the cost.
You'll see how it's done - may also sort out the problem you speak of in your other thread on claying - & will have a good idea of what those that make their living at it use which should save you wasting money on unsuitable stuff.
Asking on forums is fine, but you have no idea of the skill level of the adviser & in addition to risking damage you're likely to finish up with more kit & chemicals than Halfords as everyone will have their own ideas of what to use & how to use it.
Do this before buying anything further.
You'll see how it's done - may also sort out the problem you speak of in your other thread on claying - & will have a good idea of what those that make their living at it use which should save you wasting money on unsuitable stuff.
Asking on forums is fine, but you have no idea of the skill level of the adviser & in addition to risking damage you're likely to finish up with more kit & chemicals than Halfords as everyone will have their own ideas of what to use & how to use it.
Do this before buying anything further.
Always, always start with the finest and work up!
So soft pad, final finish polish.
Step up to medium pad and finish polish.
All comes down to hpw YOUR paint reacts and what finish YOU want.
Remember, only a certain amount of clear to play with, so if daily then light removal and gain in gloss for me.
If you hit it with a heavy cutting pad and a heavy cut polish, remove 25-30 umn's of clear but only have (roughly) 90umn's of clear on coat, the thats a 1/3rd gone.
Do that twice and your on the way to clear coat failure.
You remove 2umn's with a final polish (for instance) and the car looks very glossy, then you have a fair few goes at it.
These are ish guidelines of course.
It really is worth the money and time to learn off of a decent detailer on your car.
So soft pad, final finish polish.
Step up to medium pad and finish polish.
All comes down to hpw YOUR paint reacts and what finish YOU want.
Remember, only a certain amount of clear to play with, so if daily then light removal and gain in gloss for me.
If you hit it with a heavy cutting pad and a heavy cut polish, remove 25-30 umn's of clear but only have (roughly) 90umn's of clear on coat, the thats a 1/3rd gone.
Do that twice and your on the way to clear coat failure.
You remove 2umn's with a final polish (for instance) and the car looks very glossy, then you have a fair few goes at it.
These are ish guidelines of course.
It really is worth the money and time to learn off of a decent detailer on your car.
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