Can I easily 'restore' this wheel?

[Shuvi McTupya]

This wheel has seen better days but it isnt worth having it professionally refurbished.

Before I make it even worse by doing the wrong thing ( I have Brillo pads), does anyone have any tips?
I probably won't do anything about the centre cap but I would just like to bring the shine back to the 'chrome' bits.

[MDMA .]

Looks like it just needs the face re-cutting (diamond). Will be good as new.

[SHutchinson]

I’d get it refurbished and powder coated, rather than machine finished like that. It’ll last longer.

[Shuvi McTupya]

That doesn't sound like something i can do myself? That sounds like taking it some where to have it professionally restored.

I could probably get a new one for what i would be charged!

[bimsb6]

Garryflex blocks is what you need they used to be called loyblox , they are grit impregnated rubber blocks in varying grades .

[Shuvi McTupya]

bimsb6 said:

Garryflex blocks is what you need they used to be called loyblox , they are grit impregnated rubber blocks in varying grades .

Thank you, i will have a look for those.

[paintman]

They are diamond cut. Look close & I expect you'll see little parallel line on the shiny areas.
Water has penetrated the clearcoat & the spidery random lines are corrosion.
Perfect is a professional refinish.
You could try removing the clearcoat, polishing the metal & then applying clearcoat.
Or just paint the shiny bits with wheel silver.

[Shuvi McTupya]

I have ordered one of those abrasive sponge things and will see if i get anywhere with that first.

[bimsb6]

Really you need a selection to get the best finish , they go from take you skin off coarse to polishing plastic fine .

[Shuvi McTupya]

I ordered a 120 grit which isn't too coarse and you can 'soften it ' a bit more by adding soap/washing up liquid. if the worst comes to the worst i will consider paying somebody but i want to see what i can do (if anything) for myself.

[Fastpedeller]

From experience (of doing similar with some Compomotive wheels), the problem (which most would think is the opposite) is the clear lacquer. I carefully took the lacquer off the silver bits using paint stripper, then polished the silver bits by hand using various grades of wet/dry paper. Once good, I followed with solvol autosol, Some hard car wax was then put on, and they've remained good for years. Just keep an eye on them and polish if needed (I haven't needed to BTW). I would suggest DON'T lacquer them (despite what people will tell you) as moisture just gets under the lacquer, and you end up with the same problem.

[paintman]

^^^^^
Interesting & does make sense. If the water isn't held against the metal then it will slow the process & the wax will help protect it.
Much like looking after the chromed bits/wheels/aluminium motorbike engine casings of my youth

[Shuvi McTupya]

Fastpedeller said:

From experience (of doing similar with some Compomotive wheels), the problem (which most would think is the opposite) is the clear lacquer. I carefully took the lacquer off the silver bits using paint stripper, then polished the silver bits by hand using various grades of wet/dry paper. Once good, I followed with solvol autosol, Some hard car wax was then put on, and they've remained good for years. Just keep an eye on them and polish if needed (I haven't needed to BTW). I would suggest DON'T lacquer them (despite what people will tell you) as moisture just gets under the lacquer, and you end up with the same problem.

Thank you for taking the time to explain that!

complete noob question incoming. I dont really have any experience with paint stripper/removing laquer. Will it be easy to tell when all the laquer has been removed? what with laquer being invisible and all

[finlo]

Shuvi McTupya said:

Thank you for taking the time to explain that!

complete noob question incoming. I dont really have any experience with paint stripper/removing laquer. Will it be easy to tell when all the laquer has been removed? what with laquer being invisible and all

It's not invisible it's clear!

[Shuvi McTupya]

finlo said:

It's not invisible it's clear!

I suppose it goes all goopy and i have to remove that

[Fastpedeller]

I just used a minimal amount put on with a child's paint brush (don't want it where it's not wanted). You could try without the paint stripper, but of course it would be hard work. I was pleasantly surprised at how little time the running down with wet/dry took, and even more pleasantly surprised that the corrosion didn't come back as long as I kept some wax on there!

[Fastpedeller]

OP - any progress yet? It's been cold for fiddling with cars, so maybe not?

[Shuvi McTupya]

Fastpedeller said:

OP - any progress yet? It's been cold for fiddling with cars, so maybe not?

I spoke to a neighbour who has a lot more experience with this kind of thing than i do and after a quick look at the wheel he told me just to use wire wool and then the polishing thing i bought that was mentioned earlier in the thread. He then said i should reapply lacquer but i might just use wax as suggested here.

As you say, its too cold to do it at the moment anyway (the sun hasn't melted the frost for the last two days)but once the wirewool arrives i will see how i feel.

[InitialDave]

Fastpedeller said:

From experience (of doing similar with some Compomotive wheels), the problem (which most would think is the opposite) is the clear lacquer. I carefully took the lacquer off the silver bits using paint stripper, then polished the silver bits by hand using various grades of wet/dry paper. Once good, I followed with solvol autosol, Some hard car wax was then put on, and they've remained good for years. Just keep an eye on them and polish if needed (I haven't needed to BTW). I would suggest DON'T lacquer them (despite what people will tell you) as moisture just gets under the lacquer, and you end up with the same problem.

This is good advice, though I'd recommend Sonus Aluminium Sealant rather than normal car wax.

[Shuvi McTupya]

InitialDave said:

This is good advice, though I'd recommend Sonus Aluminium Sealant rather than normal car wax.

Wow, that stuff is not cheap. over £40 for a bottle from the states!