Rattle can home paint job - advice welcome
Discussion
Hoping for some advice on how to get reasonable results when doing a bit of a DIY bodyshop job.
One of my cars has some surface rust on the inner edge of the front wings.
So I was hoping to rub this down back-to-back metal, treat the metal with some kind of rust inhibitor then prime and spray just the edges without affecting the outer panel that is on show when looking at the car.
Trouble is I went into Halford's and they had such a range of different rusting treatments, primer (both brush on and spray on) as well as paints I frankly had no idea which I should buy and how I should apply them.
Dummies guide would be very welcome.
One of my cars has some surface rust on the inner edge of the front wings.
So I was hoping to rub this down back-to-back metal, treat the metal with some kind of rust inhibitor then prime and spray just the edges without affecting the outer panel that is on show when looking at the car.
Trouble is I went into Halford's and they had such a range of different rusting treatments, primer (both brush on and spray on) as well as paints I frankly had no idea which I should buy and how I should apply them.
Dummies guide would be very welcome.
Flat back, etch primer for bare metal, couple of coats of that with a light flat down inbetween. Rattle can in very light coats, then a coat of lacquer.
The key is prep and lots of light coats imho. I refurbed a set of alloys with a rattlecan once and although it nearly killed me with the effort they looked absolutely perfect afterwards - lasted for years too, despite just being Halfords cans.
The key is prep and lots of light coats imho. I refurbed a set of alloys with a rattlecan once and although it nearly killed me with the effort they looked absolutely perfect afterwards - lasted for years too, despite just being Halfords cans.
Not at this time of year, the paint will most likely "bloom" which is moisture condensing into the paint film as it dries.
Wait for the warmer weather.
Also, no matter how skilled anyone is, trying to blend and fade out rattle cans into an existing panel is near impossible without it looking cack. Be prepared to paint the whole panel.
Out of interest, what car is it? Because for many there a pre-painted wings available on ebay.
Wait for the warmer weather.
Also, no matter how skilled anyone is, trying to blend and fade out rattle cans into an existing panel is near impossible without it looking cack. Be prepared to paint the whole panel.
Out of interest, what car is it? Because for many there a pre-painted wings available on ebay.
The main thing is not so much the painting, as the treating before and the protecting afterwards. Basically take a drill fitted wire brush to the metal and take as much of the scabby stuff off as possible. Also use medium grade sandpaper if that helps, or a sanding disc, well, whatever you have available. Treat what's left with a rust killer - Trustan or whatever, and follow the instructions for use. Spray the patch with primer, if the rust killer is compatible, you could use a zinc primer, but don't worry too much either way. Then use a topcoat. Allow to dry very well indeed. Ideally a number of days to harden, as the cellulose based stuff that comes in rattle cans stays soft for some time and the treatment that follows could soften it further. Then apply an underbody sealant, or stone chip protection, whatever - quite a few options available. This is probably the most important step. I would mask the frontside of the wing and apply the sealant all the way to the edge, as far outwards i.e. towards being visible, as I could get away with. Done properly this repair should last many years, or longer if an occasional eye is kept upon it.
cant see the need to be an expert on fading out when the OP has stated he only needs to attend to the area inside the wing arch.
fol
I would get an inspection lamp into the arch first some glasses and a brush or wire brush and clean the back up to see what the extent is of the rust then decide on what type of a job you want to make of it. quick tidy up or more long lasting repair.
as you can use the part of the arch lip where it has the crease line you could easily blend in your primers and paints so that from looking at the car from the side you wouldnt see the new paint join lines.
avoid straight line masking. when you remove it to rub it down youll have steps in the coats to overcome.
I would try taping an old length of 2 or 3 core household cable around the arch when you are ready to start priming or buy the proper masking tape with foam beading to avoid visible steps in your coats.
work inside the arch outwards so wheel off get comfy.. if you use etch primer as somebody earlier suggested then cover the car up in that area as etch primer flies for miles IME. old blankets or mats etc or cheap dust sheets from Homebase.
if theres signs of rust on the backside edge then consider stonechipping it after the repair.
fol
I would get an inspection lamp into the arch first some glasses and a brush or wire brush and clean the back up to see what the extent is of the rust then decide on what type of a job you want to make of it. quick tidy up or more long lasting repair.
as you can use the part of the arch lip where it has the crease line you could easily blend in your primers and paints so that from looking at the car from the side you wouldnt see the new paint join lines.
avoid straight line masking. when you remove it to rub it down youll have steps in the coats to overcome.
I would try taping an old length of 2 or 3 core household cable around the arch when you are ready to start priming or buy the proper masking tape with foam beading to avoid visible steps in your coats.
work inside the arch outwards so wheel off get comfy.. if you use etch primer as somebody earlier suggested then cover the car up in that area as etch primer flies for miles IME. old blankets or mats etc or cheap dust sheets from Homebase.
if theres signs of rust on the backside edge then consider stonechipping it after the repair.
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