Farecla G10: Any good for these circumstances?
Discussion
Hi' advice/experiences appreciated.
Took the Griff round to the local (and highly regarded) body shop for a quote for a front end and boot lid respray plus a small area of cosmetic (£7-800). A respray to these areas has at some point in the past been carried out but the lacquer has dulled slightly over time. The guys suggested that I try Farecla G10 in combination with a buffing tool to restore the lustre as the previous work had been well executed and bore few stone chips.
Whadya reckon? My thoughts would be that the lacquer had dulled throughout its depth, though possibly as the base-coat is dark (moonraker metalic black) this wouldn't be an issue. I have some detail as to its application but I'd still appreciate anyones recommendations in this matter before spending a weekend with my sleeves rolled up.
Big thanks up-front :thumbup:
Bruce
Took the Griff round to the local (and highly regarded) body shop for a quote for a front end and boot lid respray plus a small area of cosmetic (£7-800). A respray to these areas has at some point in the past been carried out but the lacquer has dulled slightly over time. The guys suggested that I try Farecla G10 in combination with a buffing tool to restore the lustre as the previous work had been well executed and bore few stone chips.
Whadya reckon? My thoughts would be that the lacquer had dulled throughout its depth, though possibly as the base-coat is dark (moonraker metalic black) this wouldn't be an issue. I have some detail as to its application but I'd still appreciate anyones recommendations in this matter before spending a weekend with my sleeves rolled up.
Big thanks up-front :thumbup:
Bruce
ok painters veiwpoint
laquer very rarely dulls througout its depth but more as a result of fine scratches on the surface causing it to look matt kinda like frosted glass
farecla makes excellent product, but for my money i'd plunk for their dry use one step product as it says it does it all in one go and makes less mess than g10 finish off with a quality wax job and you'll be suprised
oh and be carefull you are removing a layer of clearcoat and even pros can burn through
edited to add: or you could always pay me to do it
>> Edited by hot wheels on Monday 23 May 20:59
laquer very rarely dulls througout its depth but more as a result of fine scratches on the surface causing it to look matt kinda like frosted glass
farecla makes excellent product, but for my money i'd plunk for their dry use one step product as it says it does it all in one go and makes less mess than g10 finish off with a quality wax job and you'll be suprised
oh and be carefull you are removing a layer of clearcoat and even pros can burn through
edited to add: or you could always pay me to do it
>> Edited by hot wheels on Monday 23 May 20:59
Thanks for that Hot Wheels, I appreciate your input. I'll be asking for this 'One Step' at the weekend as I've sourced an outlet for Farecla products. I'll return to this post with the results of my labour and let you know what I think of that which you recommend.
Waxing afterwards is the other aspect I'll need to consider. I have some Zymol which a mate of mine raves about but to be honest shows no better results than my Simonoz Max Wax. Perhaps the Zymol is more enduring but is bl**dy hard work!? Some may frown at what for me produces good results, but, surely Simoniz have been in this business long enough to know a thing or two about protecting your paintwork: Y/N?
Bruce
Waxing afterwards is the other aspect I'll need to consider. I have some Zymol which a mate of mine raves about but to be honest shows no better results than my Simonoz Max Wax. Perhaps the Zymol is more enduring but is bl**dy hard work!? Some may frown at what for me produces good results, but, surely Simoniz have been in this business long enough to know a thing or two about protecting your paintwork: Y/N?
Bruce
Thought I ought to return to this with my findings despite this area appearing to be seldom visited.
Thanks again for your input HotWheels
but I opted for the G10. The reasons being: (1) A litre of G10 is 2/3rds the price of the 'One Step'. (2) It's probably safer to use the less aggressive formulation and check out those results first; any local areas of deeper scratching I'll remedy with scratch removing compound.
Well, what fabulous results! Unfortunately I didn't have access to the digicam for some before/after shots but take my word for G10's effectiveness. After a thorough shampooing and drying, the front end of the car took me (and my leccy buffer) about half a days work. The finish is certainly superior to that elsewhere on the car (which'll get a similar treatment soon). It wasn't the ba**s ache I'd expected: in fact, with some Way-out-West blaring away in the background, it was a wholey pleasurable Saturday. The solution is easy to apply and remove leaving no residue.
I'm just so chuffed at having a black front end (ooh err) as opposed to a greyish one and it's all down to my own labours; how fantastic is that then?!. I really hadn't realised that those imperceptible scratches/swirlmarks from waxing cloths (and 'T' Cut) etc'd have such a detrimental effect on a clearcoat.
So, in summary £11 for leccy buffer, £17 for a litre of G10 (£9 for 1/2 litre) and a cheese butty for calories expended = new paintwork for about £20.
Top Stuff
>> Edited by 2Munkys on Tuesday 31st May 11:55
Thanks again for your input HotWheels
but I opted for the G10. The reasons being: (1) A litre of G10 is 2/3rds the price of the 'One Step'. (2) It's probably safer to use the less aggressive formulation and check out those results first; any local areas of deeper scratching I'll remedy with scratch removing compound. Well, what fabulous results! Unfortunately I didn't have access to the digicam for some before/after shots but take my word for G10's effectiveness. After a thorough shampooing and drying, the front end of the car took me (and my leccy buffer) about half a days work. The finish is certainly superior to that elsewhere on the car (which'll get a similar treatment soon). It wasn't the ba**s ache I'd expected: in fact, with some Way-out-West blaring away in the background, it was a wholey pleasurable Saturday. The solution is easy to apply and remove leaving no residue.
I'm just so chuffed at having a black front end (ooh err) as opposed to a greyish one and it's all down to my own labours; how fantastic is that then?!. I really hadn't realised that those imperceptible scratches/swirlmarks from waxing cloths (and 'T' Cut) etc'd have such a detrimental effect on a clearcoat.
So, in summary £11 for leccy buffer, £17 for a litre of G10 (£9 for 1/2 litre) and a cheese butty for calories expended = new paintwork for about £20.
Top Stuff
>> Edited by 2Munkys on Tuesday 31st May 11:55
sounds like you've done a good job there, re LSP (last stage product) once the paint is corrected (ie you’ve removed all the RDS, swirl marks , holograms etc) it really does need a quality wax/sealant to protect the finish and make the most of your hard work.
I realize there are literally 100s of products out there from budget to high end, as with a lot of things you do get what you pay for and the more expensive products are usually superior but it's a case of diminishing returns some of the high end waxes are REALLY expensive and I simply don’t believe they represent good value for money when compared to low to mid priced products.
As generally these types of LSP waxes /sealants don’t contain any fillers or abrasives it is necessary to apply a polish first, there are loads of combinations but I find a good cost effective solution that achieves excellent long lasting results is a coat of AG super resin polish followed by a coat of Finish Klare 1000P .
Auto Glym SRP is a great base product at a very good price, sure products from PoorBoys, DoDo etc etc , may offer slightly better performance in providing a sound foundation for your wax of choice, but SRPs ability to fill swirls marks , remove buffing residue & clay marring while remaining very easy to use and cheap makes it tough to beat.
Now you come to the LSP, this is a subject that causes more discussion, argument and difference of opinion than any other, everyone as there own personal favourite product, preferred method of applying it etc, and if they get the desired results then they are right however getting it right often comes only after a lot of trail and error with different products, due to the price of some of these products it can get expensive.
I may experience FK1000P is one of the best LSPs at around the £20>30 price bracket and performs better or on a par with much more expensive products.
FK1000P is often compared to similar priced Collinite 745 / 915 waxes and is very similar in performance, durability but is easier to apply and with less time required between coats to me FK is the better product (although Collinite waxes are very good and I’m being hyper critical in order to find a difference worth mentioning)
But as I said earlier there are loads of products each with its own pro’s and con’s so in the end it’s a personal thing.
Finally a quick word on the difference between waxes and sealants, both do the same job as LSP but waxes (like Collinate 915 ) are made using a high proportion of natural waxes while sealants (FK1000P) is made using largely manmade substances, polymers etc (I’m simplifying it here as the sealants are often very complicated chemical structures).
The level and type of natural wax is where the price of these wax based products starts to make sense, the expensive ones from high end manufactures like Swissvax, Zymol etc contain high concentrations of rare, difficult to harvest natural Carnauba wax although quite how they can justify prices in the £100s (£1000s in one or two instances) for a small tub of the stuff is beyond me.
In the end you spend what you feel comfortable with but remember as with paint spraying the final finish is more about preparation of the surface than anything else and the most expensive wax will be wasted if the painted surface isn’t prepared correctly.
Hope this helps.
I realize there are literally 100s of products out there from budget to high end, as with a lot of things you do get what you pay for and the more expensive products are usually superior but it's a case of diminishing returns some of the high end waxes are REALLY expensive and I simply don’t believe they represent good value for money when compared to low to mid priced products.
As generally these types of LSP waxes /sealants don’t contain any fillers or abrasives it is necessary to apply a polish first, there are loads of combinations but I find a good cost effective solution that achieves excellent long lasting results is a coat of AG super resin polish followed by a coat of Finish Klare 1000P .
Auto Glym SRP is a great base product at a very good price, sure products from PoorBoys, DoDo etc etc , may offer slightly better performance in providing a sound foundation for your wax of choice, but SRPs ability to fill swirls marks , remove buffing residue & clay marring while remaining very easy to use and cheap makes it tough to beat.
Now you come to the LSP, this is a subject that causes more discussion, argument and difference of opinion than any other, everyone as there own personal favourite product, preferred method of applying it etc, and if they get the desired results then they are right however getting it right often comes only after a lot of trail and error with different products, due to the price of some of these products it can get expensive.
I may experience FK1000P is one of the best LSPs at around the £20>30 price bracket and performs better or on a par with much more expensive products.
FK1000P is often compared to similar priced Collinite 745 / 915 waxes and is very similar in performance, durability but is easier to apply and with less time required between coats to me FK is the better product (although Collinite waxes are very good and I’m being hyper critical in order to find a difference worth mentioning)
But as I said earlier there are loads of products each with its own pro’s and con’s so in the end it’s a personal thing.
Finally a quick word on the difference between waxes and sealants, both do the same job as LSP but waxes (like Collinate 915 ) are made using a high proportion of natural waxes while sealants (FK1000P) is made using largely manmade substances, polymers etc (I’m simplifying it here as the sealants are often very complicated chemical structures).
The level and type of natural wax is where the price of these wax based products starts to make sense, the expensive ones from high end manufactures like Swissvax, Zymol etc contain high concentrations of rare, difficult to harvest natural Carnauba wax although quite how they can justify prices in the £100s (£1000s in one or two instances) for a small tub of the stuff is beyond me.
In the end you spend what you feel comfortable with but remember as with paint spraying the final finish is more about preparation of the surface than anything else and the most expensive wax will be wasted if the painted surface isn’t prepared correctly.
Hope this helps.
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