Chassis restoration / protection
Discussion
Hi All
I have absolutely no idea about any of this stuff so just after opinions and or recommendations on what to use and where to get it done.
Recently got myself a 2004 Ram SRT-10 and I would like to get the surface rust on the chassis sorted and then something protective and not awful to look at applied to the whole underside.
Needs to be not too unattractive as you can see the chassis, leaf springs, diff etc all very easily from behind or the sides in the rear wheel wells.
I had found this place, who use Dinitrol, which I thought was ok? It was used by the reputable TVR specialist my Cerb came from. But a couple of mates have said it is a bit old school, sticky and unattractive.
https://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/
Mate suggested something like 3M Schutz or Bilt Hamber Dynax but I'm struggling to find anywhere that does the pre treatment and then applies these.
The other option I have been told are really good are Buzzweld near Bristol (https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/rustproofing-and-underbody-restoration-services.html), though some of their example pics are not the greatest to look at as they seem to be a bit casual with overspray of the orange primer they use so bit concerned about that.
Im based in North Wilts so the nearer to there the better if you know anywhere good?
Thanks for any help.
I have absolutely no idea about any of this stuff so just after opinions and or recommendations on what to use and where to get it done.
Recently got myself a 2004 Ram SRT-10 and I would like to get the surface rust on the chassis sorted and then something protective and not awful to look at applied to the whole underside.
Needs to be not too unattractive as you can see the chassis, leaf springs, diff etc all very easily from behind or the sides in the rear wheel wells.
I had found this place, who use Dinitrol, which I thought was ok? It was used by the reputable TVR specialist my Cerb came from. But a couple of mates have said it is a bit old school, sticky and unattractive.
https://www.southwestrustproofing.co.uk/
Mate suggested something like 3M Schutz or Bilt Hamber Dynax but I'm struggling to find anywhere that does the pre treatment and then applies these.
The other option I have been told are really good are Buzzweld near Bristol (https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/rustproofing-and-underbody-restoration-services.html), though some of their example pics are not the greatest to look at as they seem to be a bit casual with overspray of the orange primer they use so bit concerned about that.
Im based in North Wilts so the nearer to there the better if you know anywhere good?
Thanks for any help.
No rust proofing treatment will be attractive to look at sadly, it’s a horrible messy job too.
I’ve not heard many bad reports about Dinitrol, along with Bilt Hamber they are one of the better products.
Waxoyl gets slated but many of the bad reviews come from people that spray it directly on to bad rust expecting it to stop it growing, also it needs to be re applied every few years to remain effective.
I’ve not heard many bad reports about Dinitrol, along with Bilt Hamber they are one of the better products.
Waxoyl gets slated but many of the bad reviews come from people that spray it directly on to bad rust expecting it to stop it growing, also it needs to be re applied every few years to remain effective.
Lanoguard as a final stage. It's made from lanolin which is a natural waterproofer (comes from sheep).
It dries to a clear film and just gives a satin/ beautifying effect. Very easy to use, just spray it on and cover everything.
None of the mess associated with Waxoyl and other treatments.
I've just done one of my cars with it and I'm very pleased with the results.
If you have access to a ramp that will also help and it will take about 30 mins.
The product is getting good reviews on many forums at the moment.
It's reasonably priced and a little goes a long way.
It doesn't dry out and let water underneath like Waxoyl.
Reapply every year or two - not an issue as it's so easy to do.
Lanoguard also supply marine protectants which also get good reviews.
I wouldn't recommend the product unless I was happy with it - I have no affiliation to the manufacturer.
Your car will smell of sheep for a few days though !
It dries to a clear film and just gives a satin/ beautifying effect. Very easy to use, just spray it on and cover everything.
None of the mess associated with Waxoyl and other treatments.
I've just done one of my cars with it and I'm very pleased with the results.
If you have access to a ramp that will also help and it will take about 30 mins.
The product is getting good reviews on many forums at the moment.
It's reasonably priced and a little goes a long way.
It doesn't dry out and let water underneath like Waxoyl.
Reapply every year or two - not an issue as it's so easy to do.
Lanoguard also supply marine protectants which also get good reviews.
I wouldn't recommend the product unless I was happy with it - I have no affiliation to the manufacturer.
Your car will smell of sheep for a few days though !
Edited by Maximus Decimus Meridius on Friday 20th August 23:33
The only way to make an already rusting chassis pretty again (and corrosion resistant) is by hours,days, weeks, of hard work.
Remove rust by elbow grease, rubbing down, wire brushing etc, then treat with a rust converter, then apply a zinc primer or whatever you prefer followed by several coats of hard paint, and despite all this you still have the problem of corrosion from inside the chassis so you'll still need to spray some sort of oil based products inside the chassis and whever you couldn't reach.
Covering existing rust in a waxoyl or dinitrol or even bilt hamber's waxes will only serve to cover up the existing rust,it will look marvellous once done but after a couple of years it will start to flake off only to reveal that the rust carried on doing its worst unseen.
To get professionals to do this work in depth will cost serious money because dozens of hours of labour involved and it isn't a job to skimp on.
The alternative is to coat the chassis in waterproof grease, and spray some sort of oil based products into all the nooks and crannies (i use ACF50 for this purpose, others use chain lube) , it won't look pretty and will require an annual half hour recoat but it will be effective and the overspray from ACF/whatever helps keep corrosion and water out of springs suspension/brake sensors and adjusters, its messy but cheap in comparison and a DIY job.
On some 4x4 forums they reckon Krown coating at Wolverhampton does a decent job with something more versatale that waxoyl/dinitrol.
Remove rust by elbow grease, rubbing down, wire brushing etc, then treat with a rust converter, then apply a zinc primer or whatever you prefer followed by several coats of hard paint, and despite all this you still have the problem of corrosion from inside the chassis so you'll still need to spray some sort of oil based products inside the chassis and whever you couldn't reach.
Covering existing rust in a waxoyl or dinitrol or even bilt hamber's waxes will only serve to cover up the existing rust,it will look marvellous once done but after a couple of years it will start to flake off only to reveal that the rust carried on doing its worst unseen.
To get professionals to do this work in depth will cost serious money because dozens of hours of labour involved and it isn't a job to skimp on.
The alternative is to coat the chassis in waterproof grease, and spray some sort of oil based products into all the nooks and crannies (i use ACF50 for this purpose, others use chain lube) , it won't look pretty and will require an annual half hour recoat but it will be effective and the overspray from ACF/whatever helps keep corrosion and water out of springs suspension/brake sensors and adjusters, its messy but cheap in comparison and a DIY job.
On some 4x4 forums they reckon Krown coating at Wolverhampton does a decent job with something more versatale that waxoyl/dinitrol.
Agree with most of the above.
However, Hydrate 80 (rust convertor);and Lanoguard create a hermetic seal which will prevent the underlying rust getting worse. The rust needs oxygen to keep developing.
If you want to stop the rust in its tracks this is a good option even if it does not remove existing corrosion.
However, Hydrate 80 (rust convertor);and Lanoguard create a hermetic seal which will prevent the underlying rust getting worse. The rust needs oxygen to keep developing.
If you want to stop the rust in its tracks this is a good option even if it does not remove existing corrosion.
Smint said:
The only way to make an already rusting chassis pretty again (and corrosion resistant) is by hours,days, weeks, of hard work.
Remove rust by elbow grease, rubbing down, wire brushing etc, then treat with a rust converter, then apply a zinc primer or whatever you prefer followed by several coats of hard paint, and despite all this you still have the problem of corrosion from inside the chassis so you'll still need to spray some sort of oil based products inside the chassis and whever you couldn't reach.
Would the companies I linked to above cover this? they do a strip, grind / needle of any rust, key the metal put in an under layer clean out and wax all nooks etc. Remove rust by elbow grease, rubbing down, wire brushing etc, then treat with a rust converter, then apply a zinc primer or whatever you prefer followed by several coats of hard paint, and despite all this you still have the problem of corrosion from inside the chassis so you'll still need to spray some sort of oil based products inside the chassis and whever you couldn't reach.
They are quoting £1100-2000 and a week to turnaround.
RB Will said:
Smint said:
The only way to make an already rusting chassis pretty again (and corrosion resistant) is by hours,days, weeks, of hard work.
Remove rust by elbow grease, rubbing down, wire brushing etc, then treat with a rust converter, then apply a zinc primer or whatever you prefer followed by several coats of hard paint, and despite all this you still have the problem of corrosion from inside the chassis so you'll still need to spray some sort of oil based products inside the chassis and whever you couldn't reach.
Would the companies I linked to above cover this? they do a strip, grind / needle of any rust, key the metal put in an under layer clean out and wax all nooks etc. Remove rust by elbow grease, rubbing down, wire brushing etc, then treat with a rust converter, then apply a zinc primer or whatever you prefer followed by several coats of hard paint, and despite all this you still have the problem of corrosion from inside the chassis so you'll still need to spray some sort of oil based products inside the chassis and whever you couldn't reach.
They are quoting £1100-2000 and a week to turnaround.
Very difficult decision really.
As Belle says, its difficult to know just how intensive the job will be, do they have a good reputation with reviews from people or media you trust know what they are talking about and not relying on advertising revenues.
Do they take videos after each step?
The price sounds about right, but if you think about it, if you have the space you could invest in one of those huge ramps that car sales pitches use to raise cars up about 2ft, see them on the bay for about £350 used still in perfect condition (usually galvanised) and you've got it for life or till you sell on, would make normal servicing a doddle too.
I put my Prado up about 12" by driving it up on 4 sturdy ramps for such jobs and servicing, if i was younger i'd be buying one of those sales pitch ramps myself because it could still do with being a bit higher.
Safer on strong ramps than on axle stands etc imo.
Could do the job yourself during a week's holiday once the motor is up in the air, from my experience doing my own vehicles comprehensively you'll spend about £300 in various products to do a really good job including all cavities on the body of a decent sized 4x4 with separate chassis, so you could be saving yourself some £5/600 here and have the ramps etc for ever.
If you DIY, old overalls for yourself and balaclava type hat/face covering and something to stop the dust and chemicals getting up your nose and in your eyes.
Its a filthy job so get a large strong ground sheet of thick polythene and drive the whole motor onto it.
ps, if you have dogs, be assured after every step when the vehicle is painted or greased or waxolyed underneath, for the next few hours/days/weeks the dog(s) will venture underneath the motor and coat themselves in whatever and then come in and jump on the sofa/bed or your Mrs, ask me how i know this.
Do they take videos after each step?
The price sounds about right, but if you think about it, if you have the space you could invest in one of those huge ramps that car sales pitches use to raise cars up about 2ft, see them on the bay for about £350 used still in perfect condition (usually galvanised) and you've got it for life or till you sell on, would make normal servicing a doddle too.
I put my Prado up about 12" by driving it up on 4 sturdy ramps for such jobs and servicing, if i was younger i'd be buying one of those sales pitch ramps myself because it could still do with being a bit higher.
Safer on strong ramps than on axle stands etc imo.
Could do the job yourself during a week's holiday once the motor is up in the air, from my experience doing my own vehicles comprehensively you'll spend about £300 in various products to do a really good job including all cavities on the body of a decent sized 4x4 with separate chassis, so you could be saving yourself some £5/600 here and have the ramps etc for ever.
If you DIY, old overalls for yourself and balaclava type hat/face covering and something to stop the dust and chemicals getting up your nose and in your eyes.
Its a filthy job so get a large strong ground sheet of thick polythene and drive the whole motor onto it.
ps, if you have dogs, be assured after every step when the vehicle is painted or greased or waxolyed underneath, for the next few hours/days/weeks the dog(s) will venture underneath the motor and coat themselves in whatever and then come in and jump on the sofa/bed or your Mrs, ask me how i know this.
Edited by Smint on Monday 23 August 19:59
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