How to blend in direct gloss?
Discussion
I have an old 70's era American classic wearing mostly original black gloss paint, single stage, no clear coat - i.e if I polish it, the cloth turns black.
I've done bits of painting at home before using a compressor and gun ranging from using Cellulose in the 80's to some 2K work more recently, but that was complete panels.
I need to do some local repairs to the paint but want to retain as much of the original paint as possible, i.e I don't want to paint a full door to only repair something the size of a bank card etc. I have a few of these in various places.
I'll be painting at home and want to use direct glass 2K (I'll use correct mask / breathing gear) but I'm not sure how to achieve a good blend without creating a shadow / coast line where old paint meets new.
I know that with metallics, the trick is to hide the blend under a full coat of clear, but I need to avoid that to maintain originality and uniformity of finish over the rest of the car.
What is the prescribed approach to do spot repair blends with direct 2k gloss without leaving a visible blended edge / ring / coast line or whatever it's called?
I've done bits of painting at home before using a compressor and gun ranging from using Cellulose in the 80's to some 2K work more recently, but that was complete panels.
I need to do some local repairs to the paint but want to retain as much of the original paint as possible, i.e I don't want to paint a full door to only repair something the size of a bank card etc. I have a few of these in various places.
I'll be painting at home and want to use direct glass 2K (I'll use correct mask / breathing gear) but I'm not sure how to achieve a good blend without creating a shadow / coast line where old paint meets new.
I know that with metallics, the trick is to hide the blend under a full coat of clear, but I need to avoid that to maintain originality and uniformity of finish over the rest of the car.
What is the prescribed approach to do spot repair blends with direct 2k gloss without leaving a visible blended edge / ring / coast line or whatever it's called?
Black shows everything.
To lose the edge of the new paint you need to paint to the edge of the panel, a trim line or a swage line.
If that means painting the whole panel then that's what you'll need to do.
You can't just do a small area in the middle of the panel, you'll just have a lot of noticeable patches, the edges of the paint will show as thin dull lines.
Even if you decide to give it a coat of clear you'll have the same edge problem where the clear finishes. Black & very dark colours are particularly prone to this.
To lose the edge of the new paint you need to paint to the edge of the panel, a trim line or a swage line.
If that means painting the whole panel then that's what you'll need to do.
You can't just do a small area in the middle of the panel, you'll just have a lot of noticeable patches, the edges of the paint will show as thin dull lines.
Even if you decide to give it a coat of clear you'll have the same edge problem where the clear finishes. Black & very dark colours are particularly prone to this.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 2nd January 15:34
paintman said:
Black shows everything.
To lose the edge of the new paint you need to paint to the edge of the panel, a trim line or a swage line.
If that means painting the whole panel then that's what you'll need to do.
You can't just do a small area in the middle of the panel, you'll just have a lot of noticeable patches, the edges of the paint will show as thin dull lines.
Paintman is spot on.To lose the edge of the new paint you need to paint to the edge of the panel, a trim line or a swage line.
If that means painting the whole panel then that's what you'll need to do.
You can't just do a small area in the middle of the panel, you'll just have a lot of noticeable patches, the edges of the paint will show as thin dull lines.
If it's just black you will probably get away with the colour match doing full panels edge to edge.
So it's upto a bodyline,full panels or use base and clear instead if you're concerned about the colour match
Also if you do a blow in, every time you the polish the car subsequently the blow in area will become more visible even if you somehow managed an invisible job initially
Edited by V8covin on Sunday 2nd January 15:41
25th QV said:
Sorry for all the questions - what if I break through the top layer of original black, say on an edge and break through to the original primer, do I then need to spot prime that area, or am i okay to just paint over it?
You should be fine unless you go through to metal.... although you never know what crappy paint system the Yanks have used in the past that might react with the 2kJust wondering; if the car is 70s and solid black, why mix 2K for blowing in? Is the car likely to be nitro or were they using other paints by then on USA cars? I've found that nitro can be a lot more user friendly in terms of it 'melting' into previous layers and just generally easier for amateurs to use. I know it can be a pain for getting hard enough to buff and can suffer from sinkage, but taking time over each step and leaving it to harden before flatting down used to work well for me.
I'll be honest, I haven't done a car for some time, but I often used to buy damaged cars when I was younger and spray them with nitro. Last year I sprayed a few guitars with nitro too (solid blue, another was Candy Apple red with a tinted red 'clear' coat over gold), really easy to buff out or locally wet sand defects to get a great finish.
My (solid black) RS2000 has been in the garage a long, long time now and has picked up a few marks and scuffs in there. I'm hoping to do local blowing in repairs on wheel arch lips, edges, etc then detail the rest. I think the worst bit I'll have is the lower section of the driver's door, so I will spray up to the swage line.
I'll be honest, I haven't done a car for some time, but I often used to buy damaged cars when I was younger and spray them with nitro. Last year I sprayed a few guitars with nitro too (solid blue, another was Candy Apple red with a tinted red 'clear' coat over gold), really easy to buff out or locally wet sand defects to get a great finish.
My (solid black) RS2000 has been in the garage a long, long time now and has picked up a few marks and scuffs in there. I'm hoping to do local blowing in repairs on wheel arch lips, edges, etc then detail the rest. I think the worst bit I'll have is the lower section of the driver's door, so I will spray up to the swage line.
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