Using 70% rubbing alcohol after colour coat before lacquer?
Discussion
Don't.
If you do anything to the basecoat - especially metallic/pearls & other 'effects' paints - you are likely to affect its appearance. This 'damage' will be clearly visible through the clearcoat.
If you have any nibs or other imperfections in the basecoat you will need to deal with them & then re-blend the area so the whole surface has a uniform appearance.
Follow the TDS sheet (instructions) you should have got with your colour coat & the clearcoat.
These will give you the times between application of the basecoat & its overcoating with clear.
If you do anything to the basecoat - especially metallic/pearls & other 'effects' paints - you are likely to affect its appearance. This 'damage' will be clearly visible through the clearcoat.
If you have any nibs or other imperfections in the basecoat you will need to deal with them & then re-blend the area so the whole surface has a uniform appearance.
Follow the TDS sheet (instructions) you should have got with your colour coat & the clearcoat.
These will give you the times between application of the basecoat & its overcoating with clear.
Edited by paintman on Saturday 16th April 22:45
^^^^ As above.
Read the instructions - the Technical Data Sheets - you should have got with your paints. If you didn't get them from the paint supplier then you MAY be able to find them online.
These must be followed to get the best result.
Variation is at your own risk & may not end well, either in the short term or the long term, adhesion failure being one of the issues as already mentioned.
As an example this pdf is the TDS for Lesonal SB (Solvent base) basecoat:
https://automotivecolorms.com/wp-content/uploads/2...
Note the times & the maximum time it can be left unclearcoated before you would have to sand the surface & re-blend.
Takrag is fine. Yes they are a 'sticky cloth' but as said, the important word is 'lightly'.
Don't use unless the paint is fully dry.
If you get a bit of dirt on the first coat of clear DON'T use the takrag.
Clear is usually applied wet on wet following the relevant TDS & the takrag would just stick to it.
There are special paint dirt remover tools - looks like a very very fine needle with lots of barbs - but they're not cheap. What can also work is rolling a piece of masking tape lengthwise sticky side out to a fine point & using the point to remove the dirt.
Both require a great deal of care & a very steady hand.
Read the instructions - the Technical Data Sheets - you should have got with your paints. If you didn't get them from the paint supplier then you MAY be able to find them online.
These must be followed to get the best result.
Variation is at your own risk & may not end well, either in the short term or the long term, adhesion failure being one of the issues as already mentioned.
As an example this pdf is the TDS for Lesonal SB (Solvent base) basecoat:
https://automotivecolorms.com/wp-content/uploads/2...
Note the times & the maximum time it can be left unclearcoated before you would have to sand the surface & re-blend.
Takrag is fine. Yes they are a 'sticky cloth' but as said, the important word is 'lightly'.
Don't use unless the paint is fully dry.
If you get a bit of dirt on the first coat of clear DON'T use the takrag.
Clear is usually applied wet on wet following the relevant TDS & the takrag would just stick to it.
There are special paint dirt remover tools - looks like a very very fine needle with lots of barbs - but they're not cheap. What can also work is rolling a piece of masking tape lengthwise sticky side out to a fine point & using the point to remove the dirt.
Both require a great deal of care & a very steady hand.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 17th April 10:54
Soooo I have ended up with runs in the lacquer. I put on 2 or 3 coats fine then last coat maybe I was too heavy with it. I've done a bit of searching and it looks like I should be able to wet sand it down using 1000 grit.
Any help/pointers would be appreciated. What I've seen on YouTube is you get a flat stick or bit of would, wrap the 1000 round it and sand it down til the raised bits are flat along with the surrounding lacquer. I'm thinking of maybe just using my fingers and try to get the bumps down that way, not sure why a flat surface is used as I'd guess that could scuff the surrounding lacquer. Also there are some runs on a curved section so what do you suggest there?
Thank you !
Any help/pointers would be appreciated. What I've seen on YouTube is you get a flat stick or bit of would, wrap the 1000 round it and sand it down til the raised bits are flat along with the surrounding lacquer. I'm thinking of maybe just using my fingers and try to get the bumps down that way, not sure why a flat surface is used as I'd guess that could scuff the surrounding lacquer. Also there are some runs on a curved section so what do you suggest there?
Thank you !
jeff666 said:
It does but I do it slightly differently.Make sure the clear is hard.
Use a fine filler like dolphin glaze
Make a block from a rigid smooth piece of wood,as small as you can get away with.
Wrap 600 grit wet n dry round it
Sand until the filler is almost gone,then switch to 1200.When all the filler has been sanded off the run should be gone.Now discard the wood block and switch to the usual grades you would use before buffing 1500/2000/3000 whether that be by hand or with a DA
Are there any other ways? I don't feel very comfortable doing that, I'm afraid I'll go through the clear coat once I get it down enough. And in the videos he's still going over areas which have the clear on it. The lacquer will have been on for 24 hours tomorrow so I'm also concious I can't leave it too long.
I'm also worried I'll end up keying the lacquer like you do when your going to paint e.g. wet sand with 400.
I've got some but not alot of experience.
I'm also worried I'll end up keying the lacquer like you do when your going to paint e.g. wet sand with 400.
I've got some but not alot of experience.
Kazzz20 said:
Are there any other ways? I don't feel very comfortable doing that, I'm afraid I'll go through the clear coat once I get it down enough. And in the videos he's still going over areas which have the clear on it. The lacquer will have been on for 24 hours tomorrow so I'm also concious I can't leave it too long.
I'm also worried I'll end up keying the lacquer like you do when your going to paint e.g. wet sand with 400.
I've got some but not alot of experience.
The longer you leave it the better.I'm also worried I'll end up keying the lacquer like you do when your going to paint e.g. wet sand with 400.
I've got some but not alot of experience.
It's the safest way but obviously you can still make a mess of it if you do it wrong
This video shows the process pretty well.
https://youtu.be/XvjZez8Mkrk
The key is to use a small rigid block,you won't get runs out any other way
Edited by V8covin on Sunday 17th April 22:15
Same advice as V8covin.
A small hard flat block won't flex which is what you want as a softer bigger one will flex esp when you're getting somewhere & that's when you'll take too much off the surrounding lacquer.
Keep rinsing the block & paper with clean water. Same with the surface.
Take your time.
A small hard flat block won't flex which is what you want as a softer bigger one will flex esp when you're getting somewhere & that's when you'll take too much off the surrounding lacquer.
Keep rinsing the block & paper with clean water. Same with the surface.
Take your time.
Edited by paintman on Sunday 17th April 22:31
Okay
How about the razor blade method?
I'm thinking I could use low tack masking tape and put something like insulation tape over that otherwise it will just rip apart. I'd put that around the surrounding lacquer areas.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
How about the razor blade method?
I'm thinking I could use low tack masking tape and put something like insulation tape over that otherwise it will just rip apart. I'd put that around the surrounding lacquer areas.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Edited by Kazzz20 on Sunday 17th April 23:59
Edited by Kazzz20 on Monday 18th April 10:31
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff