Classic car restoration - painting etc
Discussion
I've looked for a car restoration thread on PH and am surprised there isn't one purely for classic car restoration. Are there any paintwork experts here? I want to paint my 70s Lancia and am deciding whether to use cellulose or a more modern paint. I'm aware of the hazards of isocyanates, But don't have air fed breathing apparatus. I know some just use 2 pack with a good quality respirator.
Any opinions?
I have used cellulose to spray part of my daughter's Beetle, with great success, but that was many years ago. Are modern cellulose paints good? Perhaps with a lacquer over the top?
I watched a Chasing Classic Cars episode yesterday and Wayne Carini had sprayed a priceless Bugatti with cellulose paint. The results were stunning
Any opinions?
I have used cellulose to spray part of my daughter's Beetle, with great success, but that was many years ago. Are modern cellulose paints good? Perhaps with a lacquer over the top?
I watched a Chasing Classic Cars episode yesterday and Wayne Carini had sprayed a priceless Bugatti with cellulose paint. The results were stunning
Probably better in the classics section this.
It has been discussed on many occasions.
Two pack is almost always the preferred choice for a classic, it’s better than Cellulose and in appearance more fitting than the modern water based paints.
People will always say an airfed mask is essential, yet is far from unknown to see professional painters who don’t use one. Personally I think with a good mask good ventilation and sensible care it’s possible to use it at home. Bearing in mind a professional will use it all day every day, where as you might once in a lifetime. If you can find a supplier who will sell it to you, some won’t.
Incidentally it’s only the top coats which have the toxics in, the primers tend not too, so a compromise is to prime it yourself and get the top coat done professionally.
As ever with painting the prep is the most important bit and cleanliness vital, that’s the hard bit without a paint booth.
It has been discussed on many occasions.
Two pack is almost always the preferred choice for a classic, it’s better than Cellulose and in appearance more fitting than the modern water based paints.
People will always say an airfed mask is essential, yet is far from unknown to see professional painters who don’t use one. Personally I think with a good mask good ventilation and sensible care it’s possible to use it at home. Bearing in mind a professional will use it all day every day, where as you might once in a lifetime. If you can find a supplier who will sell it to you, some won’t.
Incidentally it’s only the top coats which have the toxics in, the primers tend not too, so a compromise is to prime it yourself and get the top coat done professionally.
As ever with painting the prep is the most important bit and cleanliness vital, that’s the hard bit without a paint booth.
velocemitch said:
Probably better in the classics section this.
It has been discussed on many occasions.
Two pack is almost always the preferred choice for a classic, it’s better than Cellulose and in appearance more fitting than the modern water based paints.
People will always say an airfed mask is essential, yet is far from unknown to see professional painters who don’t use one. Personally I think with a good mask good ventilation and sensible care it’s possible to use it at home. Bearing in mind a professional will use it all day every day, where as you might once in a lifetime. If you can find a supplier who will sell it to you, some won’t.
Incidentally it’s only the top coats which have the toxics in, the primers tend not too, so a compromise is to prime it yourself and get the top coat done professionally.
As ever with painting the prep is the most important bit and cleanliness vital, that’s the hard bit without a paint booth.
2k primer fillers contain 'the toxics' by which you mean isocyanates.It has been discussed on many occasions.
Two pack is almost always the preferred choice for a classic, it’s better than Cellulose and in appearance more fitting than the modern water based paints.
People will always say an airfed mask is essential, yet is far from unknown to see professional painters who don’t use one. Personally I think with a good mask good ventilation and sensible care it’s possible to use it at home. Bearing in mind a professional will use it all day every day, where as you might once in a lifetime. If you can find a supplier who will sell it to you, some won’t.
Incidentally it’s only the top coats which have the toxics in, the primers tend not too, so a compromise is to prime it yourself and get the top coat done professionally.
As ever with painting the prep is the most important bit and cleanliness vital, that’s the hard bit without a paint booth.
2k epoxy primers don't usually.
Solvent basecoat doesn't contain isocyanates.
2k clear does as do 2k solid colours
vaud said:
steveo3002 said:
^ readily available on ebay
and yeah with the masks , you "should" use an airfed but plenty of people dont , make up your own mind on that
People used to handle asbestos by hand without PPE…and yeah with the masks , you "should" use an airfed but plenty of people dont , make up your own mind on that
Inbox said:
vaud said:
steveo3002 said:
^ readily available on ebay
and yeah with the masks , you "should" use an airfed but plenty of people dont , make up your own mind on that
People used to handle asbestos by hand without PPE…and yeah with the masks , you "should" use an airfed but plenty of people dont , make up your own mind on that
Depends what finish you want, modern paint is by far the best option, but it will have a (better) final finish than 'Celly'. Be aware that if you're painting on top of old work you need to use an isolator first. Really you need to be going back to bare metal and start again with modern products.
Be aware though that there will be a difference between the old stuff and the new stuff.
You can either go base coat then a 2K clear, or if your painting it a 'solid' colour, ie, not a metallic you can use a 2K coloured product.
I paint for a living, a good respirator is fine for DIY work, if your doing it day in day out then air fed is clearly the better option but I wouldn't stress with a respirator and good ventilation. It's only the 2K clear that you need to really worry about, you need to spray it with a wide open fan and it atomises into a lot finer mist than primer or base. It only takes minutes to lay down a coat then get out and stay out for the 10-15 flash time between coats.
Be aware though that there will be a difference between the old stuff and the new stuff.
You can either go base coat then a 2K clear, or if your painting it a 'solid' colour, ie, not a metallic you can use a 2K coloured product.
I paint for a living, a good respirator is fine for DIY work, if your doing it day in day out then air fed is clearly the better option but I wouldn't stress with a respirator and good ventilation. It's only the 2K clear that you need to really worry about, you need to spray it with a wide open fan and it atomises into a lot finer mist than primer or base. It only takes minutes to lay down a coat then get out and stay out for the 10-15 flash time between coats.
I painted my car using Lechler "Mac 5" which was described as a modern cellulose equivalent. It's not great, mainly because it needs to be waxed quite often to keep the shine. My other car was painted in two-pack by a body shop in the late 1990s, and maybe gets waxed once a year but still looks shiny. There are other issues with the car I painted - it was the first one I'd done, so some mistakes were made which are now starting to show up - but the main thing that annoys me a bit is the work required to keep the shine.
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