Painting engine and suspension type parts
Painting engine and suspension type parts
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Discussion

geeman237

Original Poster:

1,317 posts

203 months

Friday 3rd October
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Think engine mounting brackets, suspension mounts etc on a 20+ year old car. You’re painting them with say high heat engine spray can paint and want a long lasting nice looking finish. How many coats of primer and top coat do you like to apply?

DaveF-SkinnysAutos

51 posts

2 months

Saturday 4th October
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Hi,

Your not using primer for any kind of high build, only to give the top coat something to adhere to, so you only need enough primer to cover, if you can do that in one coat then great.

In relation to top coat, anything out of a can is only 1k paint so is going to have limits, but generally you need two coats, one light coat, leave it to flash off as per the TDS, usually 5-10 mins then a heavier coat, but with small parts its very easy to get too much in corners and get runs so go light, and if you need a third then just let it flash off and go again. Better to have numerous light coats than a run.

The most important aspect is prepping before paint, you need every nook and cranny clean and scuffed up for paint to adhere.

Master Of Puppets

3,726 posts

80 months

Saturday 4th October
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Dave whilst you're here can I ask you this.... I've got a Mini in Ice blue to paint (non metallic), as far as I'm aware it's single stage and that's what
I've ordered and bought, but the details on the tin are very sparse, just a small stuck on label stating Mini Ice Blue and 'Octobase', no mention of ratios
or anything else, so now I'm trying to work out if this is indeed base needing a clear coat, or is it single stage and what the ratios would be.

Do you know any info on that Mini colour, is it single stage or clear coated from the factory?

No reply from the online place I bought it from hence asking here. Sorry for the slightly off topic.

geeman237

Original Poster:

1,317 posts

203 months

Saturday 4th October
quotequote all
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
Hi,

Your not using primer for any kind of high build, only to give the top coat something to adhere to, so you only need enough primer to cover, if you can do that in one coat then great.

In relation to top coat, anything out of a can is only 1k paint so is going to have limits, but generally you need two coats, one light coat, leave it to flash off as per the TDS, usually 5-10 mins then a heavier coat, but with small parts its very easy to get too much in corners and get runs so go light, and if you need a third then just let it flash off and go again. Better to have numerous light coats than a run.

The most important aspect is prepping before paint, you need every nook and cranny clean and scuffed up for paint to adhere.
Thank you!

Belle427

10,972 posts

251 months

Saturday 4th October
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I would be inclined to use a decent paint and brush apply, something like rustoleum combicolour, no need to use a primer then and probably a more durable finish.

DaveF-SkinnysAutos

51 posts

2 months

Saturday 4th October
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Master Of Puppets said:
Dave whilst you're here can I ask you this.... I've got a Mini in Ice blue to paint (non metallic), as far as I'm aware it's single stage and that's what
I've ordered and bought, but the details on the tin are very sparse, just a small stuck on label stating Mini Ice Blue and 'Octobase', no mention of ratios
or anything else, so now I'm trying to work out if this is indeed base needing a clear coat, or is it single stage and what the ratios would be.

Do you know any info on that Mini colour, is it single stage or clear coated from the factory?

No reply from the online place I bought it from hence asking here. Sorry for the slightly off topic.
Hi,

Lots to unpick here. Id like to understand what you mean by single stage as it can have different meanings.

Without teaching you to suck eggs, old classic minis would have been cellulose, all modern cars are painted in base (water based nowadays but used to be solvent) and then given a clearcoat.

Larger industrial type things like vans etc may be in a coloured clearcoat, often called 2k.

1k means it air dries and 2k means it needs to be mixed with a hardener to set.

You cant have coloured 2k in anything other than a solid colour, so no metallics or candies etc can ever be sold as a 2k product.

When you sand a coloured 2k the dust is that colour, when you sand base and clear the dust is white regardless of the paint colour.

Octobase means it s made by Octoral, a good paint brand, and base means it s the 1k base paint. You mix that 50:50 with fast thinners (assuming you have a solvent base not a water based, I wouldnt expect them to sell you waterbased). It then needs a 2k clearcoat over the top to give it the gloss finish.

Single stage in this scenario means the base coat can go direct onto the primer in a single stage, as it is a solid colour, but quite often modern colours are two stage base, in that you need to lay down for example a silver base, and then a candy over the top, or sometimes you lay down the colour then a pearl over the top, then with everything you lay down the 2k clearcoat after.

When you buy a colour matched aerosol you are buying the 1k base and they are adding some 1k gloss to the can, so you are getting a simple repair product, but its in no way as good or resistant as the 2k clearcoat used by professional painters, an aerosol gives the appearance of a shiny car but its got no resistance to UV or the hardness that an acrylic clearcoat gives.

You can buy 2k clearcoat to put over the top of base in an aerosol, you have to pull the pin in the bottom to mix the paint and hardner and its single use, ie, once its been mixed, after an hour it will have set solid in the aerosol.

No cars are painted single stage in the meaning I think you are inferring, ie, one coat of paint, unless you are painting it with a coloured 2k paint, all modern cars are 1k base followed by 2k clearcoat. But to confuse it, a bodyshop will be dealing with two stage base coats. Then always a 2k clear coat after.

Does that make sense?



Edited by DaveF-SkinnysAutos on Saturday 4th October 17:55

Triumphantic

711 posts

131 months

Saturday 4th October
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Get everything primered and ready for top coat and use a 2k in a can type paint where you have to smack the bottom of the can to shake and mix.
More expensive but well worth it for the durability.

Master Of Puppets

3,726 posts

80 months

Sunday 5th October
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Thanks for the reply Dave. I should have been more specific in that post looking back on it.

It's a gun / compressor setup using 2k.

So what I'm really asking is if you have ever done work with that specific solid colour Mini Ice Blue (B28)? , and if you have was it 2k
single stage, or was it base requiring 2k clear coat on top. Another part of the confusion comes from being told by good authority that
B28 was 2k single stage no clear coat required, therefore leaving me wondering which is right after them sending Octobase when I
specifically asked for 2k Octocryl.

My guess is the paint shop decided B28 Ice blue is base and 2k clearcoat, rather than a typo on the tin, and contrary to what I was told it isn't
2k single stage at all.


DaveF-SkinnysAutos

51 posts

2 months

Sunday 5th October
quotequote all
Master Of Puppets said:
Thanks for the reply Dave. I should have been more specific in that post looking back on it.

It's a gun / compressor setup using 2k.

So what I'm really asking is if you have ever done work with that specific solid colour Mini Ice Blue (B28)? , and if you have was it 2k
single stage, or was it base requiring 2k clear coat on top. Another part of the confusion comes from being told by good authority that
B28 was 2k single stage no clear coat required, therefore leaving me wondering which is right after them sending Octobase when I
specifically asked for 2k Octocryl.

My guess is the paint shop decided B28 Ice blue is base and 2k clearcoat, rather than a typo on the tin, and contrary to what I was told it isn't
2k single stage at all.
Im not aware of any modern vehicles being painted in 2k single stage other than commercial vans, for environmental reasons they use water based base before applying the 2k clear coat, but I haven't come across this particular colour to comment with authority. The only way to tell is to sand an area and see if you are getting ice blue coloured dust or white dust. If it sands in the colour it's 2k coloured paint, but I would be very surprised. You only need to do a small rub with a fine grit to see.

If its a solid colour there is no reason you cant get it mixed as a 2k product, the only issue would be that you may notice the difference on any panels edge to edge with the depth/texture to the finish, but the colour would be the same.

The other advantage to base is that you can blend the paint so you can repair only a small area and blend the paint into the surrounding panel before re-clearing the whole panel. The base you dont use can also be returned to the tin to use again in the future. If manufacturers used single stage 2k we wouldn't be able to do smart repairs.

If you have a gun and compressor you can use it to spray the base then just get yourself a decent clear to go over the top, it will be a better finish than any single stage 2k.

Master Of Puppets

3,726 posts

80 months

Sunday 5th October
quotequote all
Thanks Dave, good advice. I would have tested the area to be painted to see whether it was 2k single stage but the car isn't here
till later this week. Time will tell. Cheers bud.