Good, but not perfect rust repairs
Discussion
Maybe it sounds like an odd question in a forum dedicated to the highest quality finish, but I have a query about how to get a decent rust repair without spending absolutely ages on it.
The reason is that when I look into the subject, the guides I find have so many steps and products called for that I lose the will to even start the job. Meanwhile my 2007 Audi Allroad has visible rust bubbling up under the paintwork in a few places and I just think if there were a compromise approach which got me a good, but not showroom perfect result in much fewer steps, I’d probably prefer that.
Does it exist, or am I dreaming?
The reason is that when I look into the subject, the guides I find have so many steps and products called for that I lose the will to even start the job. Meanwhile my 2007 Audi Allroad has visible rust bubbling up under the paintwork in a few places and I just think if there were a compromise approach which got me a good, but not showroom perfect result in much fewer steps, I’d probably prefer that.
Does it exist, or am I dreaming?
Edited by natterjak on Sunday 3rd May 08:51
If your not too fussy then remove any loose flaky stuff and try and get back to cleanish metal, you need to take care though to not go too far.
Apply a rust converter, something from Jenolite is probably best.
When dry apply a primer and then topcoat in your car colour.
No need to be too fussy if your not that bothered, its very difficult to stop once it has set in and cutting out/replacing is usually the only option that works.
Apply a rust converter, something from Jenolite is probably best.
When dry apply a primer and then topcoat in your car colour.
No need to be too fussy if your not that bothered, its very difficult to stop once it has set in and cutting out/replacing is usually the only option that works.
Belle427 said:
If your not too fussy then remove any loose flaky stuff and try and get back to cleanish metal, you need to take care though to not go too far.
Apply a rust converter, something from Jenolite is probably best.
When dry apply a primer and then topcoat in your car colour.
No need to be too fussy if your not that bothered, its very difficult to stop once it has set in and cutting out/replacing is usually the only option that works.
Thanks, I was wondering if the paint on anti-rust products car parts places sell are any good. I do have colour matched touch up paint, but the car is metallic silver and when I read about it and hear about clearcoat and all the various sanding down stages, my head starts to spin a bit. Apply a rust converter, something from Jenolite is probably best.
When dry apply a primer and then topcoat in your car colour.
No need to be too fussy if your not that bothered, its very difficult to stop once it has set in and cutting out/replacing is usually the only option that works.
The car is nearly 20 years old at this point and doesn’t owe me anything, so although I don’t want it to rust away, I don’t need it to look unblemished either.
Interested in this as well. My only real experience of bodywork was a full respray I did with my dad some year ago... so many we used cellulose paints...
As me move towards summer and dry days thinking of repairing few rust bubbles (4-5mm) on lower panels where the finish needs to be good but not showroom.
As me move towards summer and dry days thinking of repairing few rust bubbles (4-5mm) on lower panels where the finish needs to be good but not showroom.
Wire wheel and flap disc. Treat with something like Bilt Hamber hydrate 80, fill, sand and a rattle can each of primer, top coat and lacquer.
£60-80 or so and a day of work.
That's probably the minimum standard I'd go for. Much less and it'll be back within a couple of weeks of bad weather.
£60-80 or so and a day of work.
That's probably the minimum standard I'd go for. Much less and it'll be back within a couple of weeks of bad weather.
natterjak said:
Belle427 said:
If your not too fussy then remove any loose flaky stuff and try and get back to cleanish metal, you need to take care though to not go too far.
Apply a rust converter, something from Jenolite is probably best.
When dry apply a primer and then topcoat in your car colour.
No need to be too fussy if your not that bothered, its very difficult to stop once it has set in and cutting out/replacing is usually the only option that works.
Thanks, I was wondering if the paint on anti-rust products car parts places sell are any good. I do have colour matched touch up paint, but the car is metallic silver and when I read about it and hear about clearcoat and all the various sanding down stages, my head starts to spin a bit. Apply a rust converter, something from Jenolite is probably best.
When dry apply a primer and then topcoat in your car colour.
No need to be too fussy if your not that bothered, its very difficult to stop once it has set in and cutting out/replacing is usually the only option that works.
The car is nearly 20 years old at this point and doesn t owe me anything, so although I don t want it to rust away, I don t need it to look unblemished either.
About to tackle a similar thing and started with the research as the various rust treatments and primers can be overwhelming.
This was my plan:
Mechanically Remove as much rust as possible. Bilt hamber deox c gel to remove any last remnants of rust. Etch primer. Colour coats then lacquer.
Hydrate 80 (rust converter) is an alternative to deoxc but apparently better to remove than convert?
This was my plan:
Mechanically Remove as much rust as possible. Bilt hamber deox c gel to remove any last remnants of rust. Etch primer. Colour coats then lacquer.
Hydrate 80 (rust converter) is an alternative to deoxc but apparently better to remove than convert?
Belle427 said:
Removal is always better but some of them are a pita to use, I believe Bilt Hamber ask you to cover the area with plastic film for 12 hours for it to work correctly.
Yes I've used it recently on a few stone chips where the exposed metal had rusted. It would be a pita on large area underbody but on a small spot you just put some cling film over it so no big deal.I restore cars for a living.
You already know the answer, rust will always, without exception, return unless it's cut out and new metal welded in.
If you don't want to do that, then you need to accept it will return and decide how far you want to go. The minimal steps are:
Mechanically remove as much rust as possible, there are a million different methods but it involves elbow grease and time to rub, rub and rub until you physically cant remove anymore.
The next step is to seal whatever is left with any rust product that oxides it and seals it, therefore prevents oxygen reaching it again into the future, and therefore, while the treatment holds, it holds back the rust process. It generally doesnt really matter what product you use, everyone will have a favourite, but they do the same thing. I always use Miparox, it's never let me down and I like it, but equally Bilt Hamber advertise loads of products and they all get good reviews. I wouldn't die in a ditch over any of them, just cover the rust thats left with something that oxides it. It usually needs 24hrs to seal and generally changes colour as it dries out and reacts with the remaining rust.
All the steps next are returning the surface to normal again, so best practise, you need an epoxy primer, but these are 2 pack, meaning you need to mix a harder and the primer together, but epoxy primer is the gold standard on bare metal. After that you might need some filler to level it, then you might need some high build urethane primer to get a better finish, then you need to blend in some coloured base paint, then you need to put clear coat lacquer over the entire panel.
Then, after all that, depending on how good a job you have done, it will come back!
Thats why there are so many stages, and thats why it costs a lot of money for a bodyshop to restore cars.
You can miss out any steps you want, but there will be compromises.
My final point to make it even harder for you is that silver cars are really hard to blend repairs, so you run a high risk of having a mottled finish unless you are experienced or use a professional bodyshop.
Its your car, have a play and enjoy the process, if it goes wrong find a friendly bodyshop to put it right for you!
Good luck.
You already know the answer, rust will always, without exception, return unless it's cut out and new metal welded in.
If you don't want to do that, then you need to accept it will return and decide how far you want to go. The minimal steps are:
Mechanically remove as much rust as possible, there are a million different methods but it involves elbow grease and time to rub, rub and rub until you physically cant remove anymore.
The next step is to seal whatever is left with any rust product that oxides it and seals it, therefore prevents oxygen reaching it again into the future, and therefore, while the treatment holds, it holds back the rust process. It generally doesnt really matter what product you use, everyone will have a favourite, but they do the same thing. I always use Miparox, it's never let me down and I like it, but equally Bilt Hamber advertise loads of products and they all get good reviews. I wouldn't die in a ditch over any of them, just cover the rust thats left with something that oxides it. It usually needs 24hrs to seal and generally changes colour as it dries out and reacts with the remaining rust.
All the steps next are returning the surface to normal again, so best practise, you need an epoxy primer, but these are 2 pack, meaning you need to mix a harder and the primer together, but epoxy primer is the gold standard on bare metal. After that you might need some filler to level it, then you might need some high build urethane primer to get a better finish, then you need to blend in some coloured base paint, then you need to put clear coat lacquer over the entire panel.
Then, after all that, depending on how good a job you have done, it will come back!
Thats why there are so many stages, and thats why it costs a lot of money for a bodyshop to restore cars.
You can miss out any steps you want, but there will be compromises.
My final point to make it even harder for you is that silver cars are really hard to blend repairs, so you run a high risk of having a mottled finish unless you are experienced or use a professional bodyshop.
Its your car, have a play and enjoy the process, if it goes wrong find a friendly bodyshop to put it right for you!
Good luck.
Belle427 said:
Is this what you use Dave?
https://paintnutsbodyshop.co.uk/miparox-anti-rust-...
Yes, thats the thick emulsion, it goes on green and dries a purple colour as it oxides with any rust below. It's best for suspension parts etc. They also do a rattle can which is a lot thinner and is suitable for thinner body panels.https://paintnutsbodyshop.co.uk/miparox-anti-rust-...
Its the same idea as Bilt Hamber products and other brands, it seals the rust by preventing oxygen reaching it and therefore preventing it spreading, but its a temporary fix, you need to chop rust out, thats the only long term solution.
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