Bilt Hamber - Which one?
Discussion
Due to do the first anti corrosion application on to a mostly very clean Kia Sportage.
I will be taking all the plastics off, thorough wash and then a blast with the leaf blower before leaving it a few hours to drip dry.
Which Bilt Hamber product do people suggest?
I need to do all cavities, and anything underneath. Don't want to redo it annually, but if it's a must then fair enough. Probably will opt for aerosol. Can a yond advise how far each one of their cans go?
Thanks!
I will be taking all the plastics off, thorough wash and then a blast with the leaf blower before leaving it a few hours to drip dry.
Which Bilt Hamber product do people suggest?
I need to do all cavities, and anything underneath. Don't want to redo it annually, but if it's a must then fair enough. Probably will opt for aerosol. Can a yond advise how far each one of their cans go?
Thanks!
S50 for the cavities and then either UC or UB for the underside.
If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's opaque so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.
Won't need doing annually. Every 3 years would fine or if it's not a keep forever car then 1 good application will probably suffice.
If it's really clean I'd use UC as it's opaque so doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.
Won't need doing annually. Every 3 years would fine or if it's not a keep forever car then 1 good application will probably suffice.
Mark_Cut said:
Thanks all.
How many cans would you suggest? All cavities and all underside?
1 S50 and 3 UC is probably enough. 2 and 4 respectively would be more than enough to do everything and then touch up any bits you miss or for spot applications if you see any corrosion down the line. How many cans would you suggest? All cavities and all underside?
Edited by _Rodders_ on Monday 10th August 10:05
If you have a compressor I can highly recommend one of these type of applicators, you can precisely apply the coating without making a mess and its very controllable...just make sure its thinned down enough to spray.
The right angled one produces a fan shaped spray and little bullet one does 360deg for all the internal and hard to reach places.
The right angled one produces a fan shaped spray and little bullet one does 360deg for all the internal and hard to reach places.
Remember that the solvent you use to thin it is still a solvent. I once had a subframe blasted, then painted, then got some Waxoyl and thinned it down with white spirit to spray inside. Of course, the bits of it that came out through the various drain holes affected the lovely black paint finish on the outside because of the solvent. It may not be an issue on modern car paint, but it's worth checking.
As above, another way to make it thin enough to spray is to stand the tin in a bowl of warm water before you spray it.
As above, another way to make it thin enough to spray is to stand the tin in a bowl of warm water before you spray it.
Clad-Hach said:
I used Waxoyl and used white spirit to thin it a bit and a bucket of hot water to warm it up.
What the solvent is in Bilt Hamber products are I can't say, dropping them a line might be the way to go, it gets very good reviews though.
I used exactly the same method years ago. I found the clear Waxoyl to be brilliant stuff. What the solvent is in Bilt Hamber products are I can't say, dropping them a line might be the way to go, it gets very good reviews though.
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