Best leather cleaner and conditioner
Discussion
Most of us detailers stick with Gliptone these days.
A fellow detailer, Jac-in-a- box wrote this guide to using it... www.jac-in-a-box.com
LIQUID LEATHER
Suitable AFAIK for all types of leather except the Buffalo leather option fitted to some BM's...recognised by the uneven, heavily grained surface texture, often showing scars (barbed wire, insect bites etc)
www.liquidleather.com
or, cheaper and possibly more pleasant service!
www.partsforsaabs.com (car care > leather care > Gliptone products)
Why "clean and condition"? I think we all know why; so, not teaching to the unknowing
Rear end's are parked on expensive and good looking leather seats; they sweat on it, they grind dirt and dust into it, it loses its natural oils through the effects of sunlight, heat and the cars air-con system.
Leave it untreated the leather will get dry, stiff and start to crack.
What should you buy? (sufficient for 3 or 4 complete treatments)
LL GT12 gentle cleaner 250ml £5.95
LL GT11 conditioner 250ml £6.95
There is a conditioner which contains water repellant, made for soft-tops - GT13 I don't think it gives as nice a finish as the GT11. Who's going to let their leather get wet anyway?
Using it:
The secret to getting the best from the product (and any other leather care product) is warmth. Doing it on cold leather renders the best of cleaners / conditioners pretty much useless. The products will sit on the leather and not be absorbed.
Choose a warm day or use the seat heaters, car heater or a hair dryer...I'm happy to use a small fan heater on low setting left in the footwell of the car
*Vacuum your seats, get all the dirt from the seams using a small stiff paint brush.
*Wipe the seats down with a cloth and warm plain water.
* Apply the cleaner, liberally, with a cloth. Work it in with a soft nail brush - don't scrub. All you want to do is small circular movements to "push" the cleaner into the leather pores.
If the leather is perforated, don't worry about the cleaner getting into the perforations of the leather.
*Leave for 15 minutes and wipe off dirt and residue with a clean damp cloth. Repeat until the cloth "wipes" clean.
*Allow to dry thoroughly.
*Apply the conditioner (to warm leather) with a clean cotton / terry cloth. Work it in and use liberally. Get plenty in around the stitching.
* Leave it for around of 6 hours keeping some warmth in the car.
*Wipe off any residue with a damp cloth - job done.
As easy as that! Just remember it's not a wipe on, wipe off and drive away product" the conditioner needs time (and warmth) to be fully absorbed.
It leaves a lovely OE look to the leather and restores a long lasting authentic leather aroma - nice.
If the leather is really grubby and your feeling brave (all at your own risk!) the hot "Chinese Towel" trick is extremely effective at lifting dirt out of the leather.
Do this and then follow up with cleaner and conditioner.
Seriously, be careful - it's easy to get burnt!!!
*One damp hand towel.
*Fold and put into microwave
* Heat for as long as is needed to get the towel steaming hot - trial and error needed!
*Once steaming, carefully take to the car and lay towel over the seats, pat down and allow to cool.
*Wipe off dirt - you'll be amazed at how effective this is, especially if you pick your nearest and dearests best M&S Egyptian cotton towels (they work the best btw!)
I've had no complaints from any customer who've had LL applied to their cars. They always comment on the leather smell and the looks - can feel a little miffed at that, I've spent 6+ hours getting their paint to gleam and they're seemingly more enthusiastic about and hour or two's work on the leather!
If the leather is showing signs of cracking Liquid Leather make excellent touch up "Scuffmaster" kits that are easy and inexpensive to buy and use - and very effective.
End results -3 year old, never cleaned, slightly scuffed, and with "shiny" surfaces (no befores)
A fellow detailer, Jac-in-a- box wrote this guide to using it... www.jac-in-a-box.com
LIQUID LEATHER
Suitable AFAIK for all types of leather except the Buffalo leather option fitted to some BM's...recognised by the uneven, heavily grained surface texture, often showing scars (barbed wire, insect bites etc)
www.liquidleather.com
or, cheaper and possibly more pleasant service!
www.partsforsaabs.com (car care > leather care > Gliptone products)
Why "clean and condition"? I think we all know why; so, not teaching to the unknowing
Rear end's are parked on expensive and good looking leather seats; they sweat on it, they grind dirt and dust into it, it loses its natural oils through the effects of sunlight, heat and the cars air-con system.
Leave it untreated the leather will get dry, stiff and start to crack.
What should you buy? (sufficient for 3 or 4 complete treatments)
LL GT12 gentle cleaner 250ml £5.95
LL GT11 conditioner 250ml £6.95
There is a conditioner which contains water repellant, made for soft-tops - GT13 I don't think it gives as nice a finish as the GT11. Who's going to let their leather get wet anyway?
Using it:
The secret to getting the best from the product (and any other leather care product) is warmth. Doing it on cold leather renders the best of cleaners / conditioners pretty much useless. The products will sit on the leather and not be absorbed.
Choose a warm day or use the seat heaters, car heater or a hair dryer...I'm happy to use a small fan heater on low setting left in the footwell of the car
*Vacuum your seats, get all the dirt from the seams using a small stiff paint brush.
*Wipe the seats down with a cloth and warm plain water.
* Apply the cleaner, liberally, with a cloth. Work it in with a soft nail brush - don't scrub. All you want to do is small circular movements to "push" the cleaner into the leather pores.
If the leather is perforated, don't worry about the cleaner getting into the perforations of the leather.
*Leave for 15 minutes and wipe off dirt and residue with a clean damp cloth. Repeat until the cloth "wipes" clean.
*Allow to dry thoroughly.
*Apply the conditioner (to warm leather) with a clean cotton / terry cloth. Work it in and use liberally. Get plenty in around the stitching.
* Leave it for around of 6 hours keeping some warmth in the car.
*Wipe off any residue with a damp cloth - job done.
As easy as that! Just remember it's not a wipe on, wipe off and drive away product" the conditioner needs time (and warmth) to be fully absorbed.
It leaves a lovely OE look to the leather and restores a long lasting authentic leather aroma - nice.
If the leather is really grubby and your feeling brave (all at your own risk!) the hot "Chinese Towel" trick is extremely effective at lifting dirt out of the leather.
Do this and then follow up with cleaner and conditioner.
Seriously, be careful - it's easy to get burnt!!!
*One damp hand towel.
*Fold and put into microwave
* Heat for as long as is needed to get the towel steaming hot - trial and error needed!
*Once steaming, carefully take to the car and lay towel over the seats, pat down and allow to cool.
*Wipe off dirt - you'll be amazed at how effective this is, especially if you pick your nearest and dearests best M&S Egyptian cotton towels (they work the best btw!)
I've had no complaints from any customer who've had LL applied to their cars. They always comment on the leather smell and the looks - can feel a little miffed at that, I've spent 6+ hours getting their paint to gleam and they're seemingly more enthusiastic about and hour or two's work on the leather!
If the leather is showing signs of cracking Liquid Leather make excellent touch up "Scuffmaster" kits that are easy and inexpensive to buy and use - and very effective.
End results -3 year old, never cleaned, slightly scuffed, and with "shiny" surfaces (no befores)
Edited by rs666 on Wednesday 21st March 21:12
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