Spraying TVR's
Discussion
Hi,
I'm restoring my 69 TVR.
I've stripped the bonnet, done the repairs and re-applied new gel.
I've sprayed the first coat of two pack high build primer and now need to rub back and get rid of the dinks. Can anyone recomend whether I should be rubbing back by using wet n dry with fairy liquid? or keep it dry to rub back?
Thanks
Darren
I'm restoring my 69 TVR.
I've stripped the bonnet, done the repairs and re-applied new gel.
I've sprayed the first coat of two pack high build primer and now need to rub back and get rid of the dinks. Can anyone recomend whether I should be rubbing back by using wet n dry with fairy liquid? or keep it dry to rub back?
Thanks
Darren
Amongst many pro painters, the fairly liquid tip is out of favour. Introducing (relatively speaking) a bucketload of surfactants into your build can only cause contamination problems later. Good modern wet and dry and plenty of water on both paper and panel should get you a good finish.
Also, consider using sprayed water rather than a bucket. If you get any grit or nibs in your water, they're waiting to score your surface, which might show through in your final finish, depending on the build of your following coats. Definitely worth it if you're hand flatting your clear. A trigger spray probably won't give you enough oomph for the job, but one of those pump-up sprays from Hozelock are a good solution.
Dry, over large areas, chances are your papers will clog fast. And the clogs can also scratch. What grit were you planning on using for this? There are some very clever abrasive nets out there that can be used dry (just remove from the block and shake to de-dust them, or use with a vacuum hose on the block) - but I've not seen them finer than 400grit.
The largest block to comfortably curve to the surface you're working is always good, as is a guidecoat. Search eBay (last time I checked, only the .com rather than .co.uk, but with the dollar as it is, shipping won't sting much) for 'durablock' or large / long flexible sanding blocks.
That combo should ensure you a pro-quality profile.
HTH
Tol
Also, consider using sprayed water rather than a bucket. If you get any grit or nibs in your water, they're waiting to score your surface, which might show through in your final finish, depending on the build of your following coats. Definitely worth it if you're hand flatting your clear. A trigger spray probably won't give you enough oomph for the job, but one of those pump-up sprays from Hozelock are a good solution.
Dry, over large areas, chances are your papers will clog fast. And the clogs can also scratch. What grit were you planning on using for this? There are some very clever abrasive nets out there that can be used dry (just remove from the block and shake to de-dust them, or use with a vacuum hose on the block) - but I've not seen them finer than 400grit.
The largest block to comfortably curve to the surface you're working is always good, as is a guidecoat. Search eBay (last time I checked, only the .com rather than .co.uk, but with the dollar as it is, shipping won't sting much) for 'durablock' or large / long flexible sanding blocks.
That combo should ensure you a pro-quality profile.
HTH
Tol
Edited by Anatol on Tuesday 6th March 07:19
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