Paint protection opinions please
Discussion
I have just got a brand new car and am thinking of using one of the paint protection system, probably diamondbrite. I have been at a car club meeting where an agent for diamondbrite gave us a talk explaining the whole thing in great detail. The diamondbrite comes with a 6 year warranty which is appealing, however my only doubt is his explanation of actually putting the product on was a bit vague saying you just wipe on stage 1 then wipe on stage 2 which reacts with stage 1 to form the paint barrier. I questioned the guy about how easy it was to diy to which he just said it's dead easy you'll manage no problem.
Now i'm not an idiot and i also own a show winning classic jag (see profile) on which i use carnuba wax with great success but i am a bit concerned about diy with such a product as diamondbrite, is it really that easy to use?
I would really appreciate hearing from anyone that has used it or similar products, was it straightforward and more importantly was it worthwhile doing? Or do i just stick to polishing with the carnuba?
Now i'm not an idiot and i also own a show winning classic jag (see profile) on which i use carnuba wax with great success but i am a bit concerned about diy with such a product as diamondbrite, is it really that easy to use?
I would really appreciate hearing from anyone that has used it or similar products, was it straightforward and more importantly was it worthwhile doing? Or do i just stick to polishing with the carnuba?
Why not go with something like Ventureshield or Armourfend? Decent wax and sealents will keep the paintwork clean but will do nothing to protect you against stone chips and small nicks etc. If you just want to use waxes etc go with something like Klasse and Chemical Guys or Poorboys followed by a good wax like Natty's Blue.
Probably good products if brought and applied properly, but not good products when wiped on by the dealers valet and you get £300 on your invoice for the privilege.
Personally I'd spend the money on some decent wash materials (mitts/grit guards/towels/applicators) and as Neil said use a sealant such as Zaino or Rejex.
Nothing will give you years of protection IMO but I'd think you'd get six months from those and it should just be "wipe on" to re-apply.
Personally I'd spend the money on some decent wash materials (mitts/grit guards/towels/applicators) and as Neil said use a sealant such as Zaino or Rejex.
Nothing will give you years of protection IMO but I'd think you'd get six months from those and it should just be "wipe on" to re-apply.
Thanks for the replies guys, I had a good look through this section and also over on detailing world. It would seem most opinions fall on the negative side for most of these 'protection' systems. If i now go down the road of a good wax (probably the carnuba i use on my Jag) is it worth going to the lengths of using a clay bar or should this be avoided on new paintwork?
Does anyone have any experience of trying to get these ventureshield / armourfend products for cars where they dont have patterns? I have a classic thats going to be repainted in the next month or 2, and id like to keep it nice and resilient, but being an old car its not listed on any of their sites
As a detailing enthusiast I wouldn't use a long term product myself but I think the "they're rubbish" shouts are a bit knee jerk - if you're into car care you'll hardly be interested in a product which might reduce the need for detailing. Then again, if you're not a detailing freak like me (which the vast majority aren't, remember) then these products do have their place.
It's the poor dealer prep which causes the issue - slapping a long term product over badly prepped paint is like nails on a blackborad to me! As for cost, dealers have to make their money, so it's not so much an issue to be honest.
My daily car will be getting a long life product on it shortly - 3 years is the claim and that's just fine by me as I don't have time to dick about with a repmobile which does 1000 miles a week.
It's the poor dealer prep which causes the issue - slapping a long term product over badly prepped paint is like nails on a blackborad to me! As for cost, dealers have to make their money, so it's not so much an issue to be honest.
My daily car will be getting a long life product on it shortly - 3 years is the claim and that's just fine by me as I don't have time to dick about with a repmobile which does 1000 miles a week.
Thanks, Andy i agree with what you say, its my daily driver and due to disability i'm not always well enough to clean the car as well as i would like, hence thinking of the diamondbrite to keep the car looking half decent. I think i've now come to the decision that a few good coats of my carnuaba will do the job, would members clay bar a new car before coating with a good wax, or shouldn't you clay new paint?
In reply to claying a new car, the transit film leaves some residue in the clearcoat that the PDi clean doesnt remove. Also depends on where the car is 'parked' prior to sale. In Norwich Chrysler/ Honda dealerships leave theirs on a field near the airport and they get covered in a lot of dirt and grime. (also av-gas too I am informed
)
Claying will remove this and give you an excellent base to build up on with wax.
We have cut some basic templates for cars when we have installed stone chip film such as door handle apertures, but due to some of the curves etc, it is better to work from a CAD designed template but this costs a lot to get the area digitised for the pattern.
It depends really on what areas you want protected. Most installers will have off cuts or rolls of film that they can/should be able to work through with you.
Hope this helps
Kev

Claying will remove this and give you an excellent base to build up on with wax.
We have cut some basic templates for cars when we have installed stone chip film such as door handle apertures, but due to some of the curves etc, it is better to work from a CAD designed template but this costs a lot to get the area digitised for the pattern.
It depends really on what areas you want protected. Most installers will have off cuts or rolls of film that they can/should be able to work through with you.
Hope this helps
Kev
Claying shouldn't do any harm at all, just make sure to use a mild clay and proper detail spray.
I think the Meguiars kits from Halfords are very good tbh.
If you have four quid to spare get some Fire Glaze off eBay, the chap is selling off a load that he's left with and if you ignore all the guff from the makers about "3 year paint protection" it's actually a seriously dogs bo
ocks product - I put a couple of coats on my Boxster at the weekend and it honestly just looks stunning, OK I'm a tad biased but there really is no other word for it.
I think the Meguiars kits from Halfords are very good tbh.
If you have four quid to spare get some Fire Glaze off eBay, the chap is selling off a load that he's left with and if you ignore all the guff from the makers about "3 year paint protection" it's actually a seriously dogs bo

Thanks again guys, some sound advice me thinks. As for the protection film thanks for the info, but thats not what i'm looking for. I was thinking of the diamondbrite type stuff as some extra protection and therefore easier to keep clean as its my daily driver, however after more research i think i will go for giving it a right good coating of carnuba wax. I plan to give it a detailed clean then give it a good look over and if i think there is any need for the clay bar i'll give the Halfords Meguiers pack a go, then wax.
diamondbrite is a trade product only,and is only applied by dealers or authorised detailing company's a lot of them on ebay are fake,those naughty valeters just fill the empty bottles,with inferior product (giving db a bad name to boot )worthy alternative sealants include klasse/carlack,chemical guys jetseal 109,jeffs workstatt,
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