Detailing a new car
Author
Discussion

Justin S

Original Poster:

3,658 posts

278 months

Wednesday 31st December 2008
quotequote all
We are taking delivery next week of a new Fiesta in Panther Black.Now I want to get it all cleaned up and I guess will have some kind of waxy stuff from the so called valeters. Now would I be right in using a washing up liquid to dissolve/ remove the waxes used,as I know the car is an old stock model, so want to clay and polish,seal and then wax.Is there anything else to consider doing from new?

belleair302

6,983 posts

224 months

Wednesday 31st December 2008
quotequote all
A decent interior detail to remove any high gloss finish from the dashboard etc. I am sure you know that matt is the future!

spearsy

102 posts

213 months

Thursday 1st January 2009
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The dealers will only give it a once over with PDI polish which wont last 5 mins anyway.
Washing up liquid that is a defo no no, if you want to give your car a proper detail then a cleaner fluid will remove any old traces of polishes on your paintwork, then seal with a good wax.
Give me a shout if you require info on what to use and how to apply.

Edited by spearsy on Friday 2nd January 13:46

//j17

4,775 posts

240 months

Friday 2nd January 2009
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Buy the Bilt Hamber detailing kit as it basically contains all you need - http://www.bilthamber.com/bilthamber-special-offer...

Use the Surfex HD to remove the existing coating, then wash/clay/wax.

Justin S

Original Poster:

3,658 posts

278 months

Saturday 3rd January 2009
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Cheers guys for the replys.I hope to get it this week and may just use it for a week to let the dealer goo fall off.I will clay it,SRP, seal it with Jetseal and then HD wax it to protect it.

mneame

1,484 posts

228 months

Monday 12th January 2009
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imo i'd be telling the dealer not to touch it. dealers are some of the worst car preparers out there. Much better off getting some on in to do it at the dealership ready for you to collect or spend some extre £££ and get yourself some quality kit and start as you mean to go on. just my 2p worth.

Justin S

Original Poster:

3,658 posts

278 months

Monday 12th January 2009
quotequote all
Well I got the car and it was a mess.The so called 'PDI' involved covering everything in nasty white wax, even the windows.And you know how cold it was on Saturday.It was streaked everywhere.I decided to take the car before the did anymore harm and panther black with white streaks, makes Zebra stripes!!!!. Anyway,I tried to get it off on Saturday, but was really cold and didn't make much headway.I managed to clay the bonnet and roof and the grey clay went green and was very marked.I guess an old stock car had been sat outside for a few months.Sunday was warmer and I masked up the car after the rest was clayed and washed again.Dried off and gave it coats of Poorboys black hole.I then gave it 2 coats of Jetseal 109 and then 2 coats of warmed AG HD.The difference is amazing.The depth of paint and wet gloss look. The neighbour remarked too about what a difference.I managed to clean all the windows and then rain exed them all.I had to get the car away from the dealers before they did any more damage to it, so am glad it is all done now the rain is here.There is a few globules of water in the middle of the roof and the rest just rolls off.

mneame

1,484 posts

228 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
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sounds like you done a cracking job. did you take any before and after pics fella? would be interested to see them.

Justin S

Original Poster:

3,658 posts

278 months

Tuesday 13th January 2009
quotequote all
should have taken some before, but just wanted to get started in sorting it out.I will get some piccies after sorted soon.Have them on the camera, just need to upload them.

997addict

264 posts

204 months

Wednesday 14th January 2009
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Sorry to jump in on this but hope you can help me too. I am due to take delivery of a brand mark 6 Golf in metalic black in a couple of weeks.

I just want to know what is best to protect it and mean that I don't have to re-wax it too much, as it is the wife's car and she won't do it and I've got my hands full with my car, also in black (but did have it done at Gtechniq last week so should be much easier).

I have got some stuff for that and have done a lot of reading up on detailing stuff so got a basic understanding of carnuba waxes and synthetic poly ones, clay bars, fillers and glazes. Bit confused about sealants.

I have got Poor Boys Black Hole and a little bit of Zymol HD Clense left. Also got a £100 pot of Zymol wax but don't think that is going to last long enough for the Golf. Also got Poor Boys wheel wax.

Will I need something like a clenser (not Fairy Liqiud) to strip off any old wax left on the car after manufacturing or will this come off with a good clay barring? And I was thinking of putting Zanio Z8 on as last step to give tough barrier against wearing off and swirl marks.

So to recap my proposed steps are:

1. Clense to get rid of previous wax
2. Clay Bar
3. Poor Boys Black Hole
4. Zymol wax
5. Zanio Z8 (is this a natural wax or man-made? as know you're not supposed to mix em)

Is this a reasonable proposal or have I left something out or using wrong products?

Also I was looking at some of the brand new cars inside the showroom and even some of these had half a dozen slight but obvious scratches on them (looked like they were from washing but not lots like swirl marks) Is this normal/reasonable? Would I be right to insist that if I find any on my car when I pick it up to get them to sort it out.

I did suggest that they leave the film and tape on the car when I picked it up but they said they needed to take it off to check there was not any damage to the car before handing it over.




PJ S

10,842 posts

244 months

Wednesday 14th January 2009
quotequote all
997addict said:
Sorry to jump in on this but hope you can help me too. I am due to take delivery of a brand mark 6 Golf in metalic black in a couple of weeks.

I just want to know what is best to protect it and mean that I don't have to re-wax it too much, as it is the wife's car and she won't do it and I've got my hands full with my car, also in black (but did have it done at Gtechniq last week so should be much easier).

I have got some stuff for that and have done a lot of reading up on detailing stuff so got a basic understanding of carnuba waxes and synthetic poly ones, clay bars, fillers and glazes. Bit confused about sealants.

I have got Poor Boys Black Hole and a little bit of Zymol HD Clense left. Also got a £100 pot of Zymol wax but don't think that is going to last long enough for the Golf. Also got Poor Boys wheel wax.

Will I need something like a clenser (not Fairy Liqiud) to strip off any old wax left on the car after manufacturing or will this come off with a good clay barring? And I was thinking of putting Zanio Z8 on as last step to give tough barrier against wearing off and swirl marks.

So to recap my proposed steps are:

1. Clense to get rid of previous wax
2. Clay Bar
3. Poor Boys Black Hole
4. Zymol wax
5. Zanio Z8 (is this a natural wax or man-made? as know you're not supposed to mix em)

Is this a reasonable proposal or have I left something out or using wrong products?

Also I was looking at some of the brand new cars inside the showroom and even some of these had half a dozen slight but obvious scratches on them (looked like they were from washing but not lots like swirl marks) Is this normal/reasonable? Would I be right to insist that if I find any on my car when I pick it up to get them to sort it out.

I did suggest that they leave the film and tape on the car when I picked it up but they said they needed to take it off to check there was not any damage to the car before handing it over.
1. Surfex HD or other APC (all purpose cleaner) used at 10% should do the PDI wax removal with ease.
2. Autoclay soft
3. Autobalm
4. Dodo Juice Wookie Fist - wash mitt extrordinaire!

That should be enough to make the wife's look well.

Alternatives: (replace same number in/add to above list)
3. Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite
5. Dodo Juice wax - anything at all from £32 up to £65 a jar, which will last quite some time, even though a good bit more than Autobalm costs
6. Dodo Juice Red Mist - their alternative to Zaino Z-8.

I've nothing against Zaino products, but have grave reservations about Zymöl because it's overpriced for what it is!
Marketing BS has never sat well with me, hence why I've championed Bilt Hamber and Dodo Juice from the outset - both no nonsense companies.

997addict

264 posts

204 months

Thursday 15th January 2009
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Thanks for the advice, it getting a bit bewildering but think I can work it out.

But can I just ask what the Auto Balm is? And the Lime Prime Lite?

Yeah Zymol may be overpriced but I already got a whole tub of it so will be cheaper than getting even more wax. I assume it is good stuff and ok to use.

Can the Red Mist go over it? Is it a quick detailer or a hard sealant coat?

As for that Wookie Fist, is that new? Great name.

PJ S

10,842 posts

244 months

Thursday 15th January 2009
quotequote all
997addict said:
Thanks for the advice, it getting a bit bewildering but think I can work it out.

But can I just ask what the Auto Balm is? And the Lime Prime Lite?

Yeah Zymol may be overpriced but I already got a whole tub of it so will be cheaper than getting even more wax. I assume it is good stuff and ok to use.

Can the Red Mist go over it? Is it a quick detailer or a hard sealant coat?

As for that Wookie Fist, is that new? Great name.
Autobalm is a paste sealant with unique properties for those whose paint may have stonechips down to the bare metal - rust inhibitors. Also works on trim and chrome/brightwork without issue.

Lime Prime Lite, is a glaze to add an element of depth and wetness to the appearance, and used on clean paintwork prior to putting the 2 layers of wax on.
An alternative to HD Cleanse from Zymöl.

Red Mist is a sprayable sealant, like Zaino Z-8, and designed to add an extra shine to the appearance, and extent the durability of the wax underneath.

The Wookie's Fist is aptly named, since it is the HAIRIEST sheepksin wash mitt known to be made, but also the most expensive - but then it is a case of getting what you pay for.

http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.p...

997addict

264 posts

204 months

Friday 16th January 2009
quotequote all
That is one mother of a hairy furball. What is the cost of one of those babies then?

If the lite is a glaze can I use the PB Black Hole I got instead, but do I need this for a brand new motor as should not have swirls to hide.

Then will put on a few layers of wax and the Red Mist or Z8 seems to be the best approach. How long can I expect to leave it between waxes? She will only be pottering around London a few times a week so not massive miles.

PJ S

10,842 posts

244 months

Friday 16th January 2009
quotequote all
997addict said:
That is one mother of a hairy furball. What is the cost of one of those babies then?

If the lite is a glaze can I use the PB Black Hole I got instead, but do I need this for a brand new motor as should not have swirls to hide.

Then will put on a few layers of wax and the Red Mist or Z8 seems to be the best approach. How long can I expect to leave it between waxes? She will only be pottering around London a few times a week so not massive miles.
Think the mitts are £20 plus a couple of quid postage.
PB BH, is a sealant-friendly glaze, so whilst it'll work okay with a wax overlay, it's not likely to be as good as the likes of Meguiar's #7 or Dodo LPL.
Glazes aren't swirl maskers - they're designed to enhance the wet-look and depth of the paint, which is easier to notice on darker colours. Lighter colours generally look best with just a sealant or wax over the sealant base.

2 layers of wax, with RM or Z-8 over the top should see you good for 3-4 months, before you strip it back to the bare paint, and redo. Fortnightly top-ups with RM/Z-8 will be all you need after washing and drying.
No hard and fast rules about time, since weather conditions, where parked, how often washed, etc will all take it's toll on the LSP (last stage product), so you may find you need to reapply a wax layer monthly.

Any time you feel any bonded contamination after rinsing, use the clay bar, but remember to reapply your wax and RM/Z-8 again, as it's likely to have been removed in the process.