Discussion
I need to detail my dads car for a wedding. I am a noobie when it comes to detailing, although I have some of the stuff at home so this is what I had planned:
Wash with a wash mitt using Turtlewax shampoo
Clay
Wash using Autogylm shampoo
Polish using Autogylm Super Resin Polish
Wax using Maguires spray on wax (blue bottle)
Clean wheels using some random wheel cleaner spray bottle (as long as it gets rid of water marks its fine)
Does this seem ok? I don't really want to buy anything else, just as long as the car is shiney. Also, when claying can I use the water that is already on the car along with the spray bottle that comes in the kit, or should I totally dry it and then use the spray bottle only?
Wash with a wash mitt using Turtlewax shampoo
Clay
Wash using Autogylm shampoo
Polish using Autogylm Super Resin Polish
Wax using Maguires spray on wax (blue bottle)
Clean wheels using some random wheel cleaner spray bottle (as long as it gets rid of water marks its fine)
Does this seem ok? I don't really want to buy anything else, just as long as the car is shiney. Also, when claying can I use the water that is already on the car along with the spray bottle that comes in the kit, or should I totally dry it and then use the spray bottle only?
re claying, dry the car completely before starting to clay it, and work a small section at a time, keep the clay well lubed, you'll be able to feel the clay working, if your not lubing it enough it will not move smoothly and will mar the paint, keep kneading and turning the clay as you progress. You'll soon get the hang of and feel the paint becomeing smoother to the touch, try the fag wrapper test, place the clear wrapper of a fag packet over your fingers and gently rub the paint on clayed and un-clayed areas the clayed areas should feel much smoother. Once he car is fully clayed wash and dry it again before the polish.
PJ S said:
Except for preventing water spots if you live in a hard water area, or the sun is out, with no shade to work under, then drying the car prior to claying is a waste of time and effort.
some good reasons for drying it completely then, another is plain water isn't a very good lube so why risk marring when it that's only a few minutes to dry the car ? budd said:
PJ S said:
Except for preventing water spots if you live in a hard water area, or the sun is out, with no shade to work under, then drying the car prior to claying is a waste of time and effort.
some good reasons for drying it completely then, another is plain water isn't a very good lube so why risk marring when it that's only a few minutes to dry the car ? As for water not being a good lube - would have to rebuke that comment as I've used only water with the designed-for-water clay bar from Bilt Hamber.
Then again, 3M's clay bar is similarly designed.
'rebuke' away


Edited by budd on Tuesday 16th June 13:19
budd said:
'rebuke' away
but the fact is many clays need a ID spray to avoid marring, so if you live in a area where the water won't leave marks as it dries, if it's not hot & sunny and you've got plenty of shade to work in, if your clay bar is designed to use water as a lube (as I said aren't),then fine clay it wet, me I don't like 'ifs and buts' so I'll continue to spend a couple of minutes getting the excess water off so I don't have to bother claying off the water marks and I'll keep on using an ID spray as lube, but hey that's just me maybe I'm doing it all wrong!!! 
ID Spray???? Sorry bare with me. I'm trying (very)

Edited by budd on Tuesday 16th June 13:19
Quite right also known as quick detailer (QD) with a number of acronyms in use around here maybe we should have a list!!!
I’m sure a newcomer reading a post full of RDS, LSP, SRP, DA, APC etc etc would think we’re talking gibberish!!! And that’s before you get on to weird product names like DoDo RR (OK it’s Rainforest Rub) but how many people would know that?? Maybe I should get out more


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