Water based paint.
Discussion
I haven't sprayed cars for some years, but I have all the equipment including a nice Devilbis gun a friend gave me. I used to use cellulose, but I understand it is hard to come by these days and isn't ideal as my RS2000's nose cone is flexible and the existing cellulose has cracked, plus it tends to be a 'soft' paint, so more likely to mark when washing, etc.
As I can't use 2 Pack in my home garage, I was wondering what the score is with water based paint? Would I be able to use the same needles, etc with my existing gun (I don't think I can get spares for it now as it is the old type high pressure that is now banned in commercial bodyshops)?
Is it any more durable than cellulose?
Is it possible to put a flex additive into it?
If I just did a lower half respray and just correct and detail the upper existing cellulose are there likely to be any issue I should consider (apart from colour matching, NB: The car is solid Black).
Any other possiblities to consider?
Recommended suppliers in the South of England (I cover a big area with work, so I'd be able to collect at some convienient point)?
I'd prefer to do this myself as it is only the very lowest parts of the car that actually need paint ie, below bumper level. I could have a full 2K respray done in the future, but I'm unsure who I'd trust to get the finish I'm after and the existing (dusty) paint is free of orange peel due to me wet flatting, compounding and polishing it 12 years ago.....I don't fancy doing that all over again.
Appologies if this has been asked before, but a search didn't seem to find any previous posts about it.
As I can't use 2 Pack in my home garage, I was wondering what the score is with water based paint? Would I be able to use the same needles, etc with my existing gun (I don't think I can get spares for it now as it is the old type high pressure that is now banned in commercial bodyshops)?
Is it any more durable than cellulose?
Is it possible to put a flex additive into it?
If I just did a lower half respray and just correct and detail the upper existing cellulose are there likely to be any issue I should consider (apart from colour matching, NB: The car is solid Black).
Any other possiblities to consider?
Recommended suppliers in the South of England (I cover a big area with work, so I'd be able to collect at some convienient point)?
I'd prefer to do this myself as it is only the very lowest parts of the car that actually need paint ie, below bumper level. I could have a full 2K respray done in the future, but I'm unsure who I'd trust to get the finish I'm after and the existing (dusty) paint is free of orange peel due to me wet flatting, compounding and polishing it 12 years ago.....I don't fancy doing that all over again.
Appologies if this has been asked before, but a search didn't seem to find any previous posts about it.
Waterborne paint tends to be for clear-over-base systems.
You might be able to lay the paint down, but what will you do for clearcoat? Anything durable will be 2k - and you've very sensibly recognised that you can't spray that with the facilities and safety equipment you've got.
As for the gun, if the needle and nozzle are stainless, the water won't hurt them, but a paint system will have a particular nozzle size it's intended for, and modern guns have particular aircaps that are designed for the specific job of properly atomising waterborne paint. Most painters use different equipment for their basecoat and clearcoat now.
Painting *really* isn't for DIY any more (rattle-cans excepted).
Tol
You might be able to lay the paint down, but what will you do for clearcoat? Anything durable will be 2k - and you've very sensibly recognised that you can't spray that with the facilities and safety equipment you've got.
As for the gun, if the needle and nozzle are stainless, the water won't hurt them, but a paint system will have a particular nozzle size it's intended for, and modern guns have particular aircaps that are designed for the specific job of properly atomising waterborne paint. Most painters use different equipment for their basecoat and clearcoat now.
Painting *really* isn't for DIY any more (rattle-cans excepted).
Tol
Yeah, I'm starting to think that's case about it not being for DIYers anymore. The shame is I used to get quite good results once I got the Devilbis; I could get quite a good finish straight from the gun, only needing a light polish if I was trying to match existing factory orange peel. I may even just do the small patches with a rattle can unless I can find 1/2 a litre of cellulose somewhere (still have the 'top gloss' thinners and some primer).
I have used pre mixed clearcoat before (polyester I think) on a few metalics that I sprayed after replacing wheel arches, etc, so not full resprays. If I did this using a base and clear, then I think I'd have to spray upto the pin stripe, which starts becoming more of a major repaint. Is clear coat 1K available with a flex additive as I'd need to do the nose cone again anyway?
Maybe worth getting the nose cone done off the car in 2K by a pro and the tiny bits below the bumper I could do with cellulose/rattle can.
I have used pre mixed clearcoat before (polyester I think) on a few metalics that I sprayed after replacing wheel arches, etc, so not full resprays. If I did this using a base and clear, then I think I'd have to spray upto the pin stripe, which starts becoming more of a major repaint. Is clear coat 1K available with a flex additive as I'd need to do the nose cone again anyway?
Maybe worth getting the nose cone done off the car in 2K by a pro and the tiny bits below the bumper I could do with cellulose/rattle can.
I'm assuming it's non isocynanide, which I didn't know existed. Can it be sprayed with an ordinary face mask rather than needing an external air supply like 'regular' 2pack?There are non-isocyanate 2-pack lacquers.
Chipsaway uses their own over their own water-based base coats. They won't supply outside their franchise network.
Other franchises - eg Smart ABC - advertise their own systems.
If you search on ebay for cellulose car paint you will find any number of suppliers.
This firm advertises a non-iso 2K lacquer http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/index.php?c... Is it any good? Is it petrol proof? Will it stand up to acid based wheel cleaners? I have no idea.
Chipsaway uses their own over their own water-based base coats. They won't supply outside their franchise network.
Other franchises - eg Smart ABC - advertise their own systems.
If you search on ebay for cellulose car paint you will find any number of suppliers.
This firm advertises a non-iso 2K lacquer http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/index.php?c... Is it any good? Is it petrol proof? Will it stand up to acid based wheel cleaners? I have no idea.
Edited by paintman on Friday 10th July 00:15
We use non iso lacquer when unable to use standard 2k, have done for over 5 yrs with no comebacks at all. I have done bike tanks with it with no comebacks so im presuming its ok with petrol.
If applied right then its pretty much the same as normal 2k.
We use a churchill paints product running through a 1.0 tip smart repair gun, ie Sata.
If applied right then its pretty much the same as normal 2k.
We use a churchill paints product running through a 1.0 tip smart repair gun, ie Sata.
Thanks for the link and the replies. 
That gives me a few things to think about while I'm getting on with getting the car back on the road. It seems that 'solid' colour has been mostly replaced with clear over base, which might just alter where I spray up to...then it creaps into a full respray if I'm not careful. 
That gives me a few things to think about while I'm getting on with getting the car back on the road. It seems that 'solid' colour has been mostly replaced with clear over base, which might just alter where I spray up to...then it creaps into a full respray if I'm not careful. Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff