Por 15 questions.
Discussion
Hello,
Is this a miracle cure? I bought a tin last week and tried it on a few areas of my car last night. Has the technology moved on a long way from what was previously availabe 10-20 years ago e.g kurust.Am I right in thinking I can just paint over the top and expect the corrossion to be halted. Also the fit of the tin lid was an very tight fit and was distorted when removing, due to the manufacturers advice with regard to moisture curing this product should I consider decanting it into another container to ensure a better seal?.
Is this a miracle cure? I bought a tin last week and tried it on a few areas of my car last night. Has the technology moved on a long way from what was previously availabe 10-20 years ago e.g kurust.Am I right in thinking I can just paint over the top and expect the corrossion to be halted. Also the fit of the tin lid was an very tight fit and was distorted when removing, due to the manufacturers advice with regard to moisture curing this product should I consider decanting it into another container to ensure a better seal?.
I did some searches last week before I bought it, and the results were usefull, I was just looking for some idea of any other folk who had used it and what to expect. I am cynical in the respect that I followed the old maxim that the only way to treat rust was to cut out and replace with new metal. I just wondered has that changed now, my car is 30 years old next year, I've done the cutting out and relace some 14 years ago- layers of zinc primer, Hamerite in all the bad places, 2K paint and loads of Wax Oil, but the corrosion is back and I was keen to try a new approach, at £20 a tin I thought it worth a go. Panels for my car are virtually non existant a very expensive body shop bill I fear.
Jim H said:
Am I right in thinking I can just paint over the top and expect the corrossion to be halted.
No. If you look at the product documentation you'll find that it is actually part of a paint system and you should go through a whole process of stripping, rust removal, degreasing, acidic primer (this is the bit equivalent to Kurust), POR15 and a top coat. It's very much NOT a case of just slapping POR15 over the rusty chassis.
It is a fantastic product...
Providing you clean off all flakey rust etc on the metal and degrease it properly...
Por15 sticks to RUST... so if you have any bare metal you WILL need to use a primer on it (from their range!)
I used it on my TVR chassis and the results are fantastic... just dont get it on your skin or in your hair... it doesnt come off!
Providing you clean off all flakey rust etc on the metal and degrease it properly...
Por15 sticks to RUST... so if you have any bare metal you WILL need to use a primer on it (from their range!)
I used it on my TVR chassis and the results are fantastic... just dont get it on your skin or in your hair... it doesnt come off!
[quote=tegwin]It is a fantastic product...
I had an idea it was a good product this morning from the way the brush was stuck solid into the pot I applied it from!.
My main rot is in the sills for which I been able to aquire panels, but there are areas on one door which have bad blisters, I can't get a skin or a door and do not want to cut out and replace as this always tends to warp the panels and require tons of filler work.
As a test piece on a small area I removed the flakey stuff as instructed, I just wondered what next, primer, topcoat and laquer?Maybe a Hamerite coat?
Should I worry about the paint being in a tin with a wonky lid? I have put plenty of cling film round it, but is this stuff going to be a solid lump in no time if more oxygen/ atmosphere gets to it?
I had an idea it was a good product this morning from the way the brush was stuck solid into the pot I applied it from!.
My main rot is in the sills for which I been able to aquire panels, but there are areas on one door which have bad blisters, I can't get a skin or a door and do not want to cut out and replace as this always tends to warp the panels and require tons of filler work.
As a test piece on a small area I removed the flakey stuff as instructed, I just wondered what next, primer, topcoat and laquer?Maybe a Hamerite coat?
Should I worry about the paint being in a tin with a wonky lid? I have put plenty of cling film round it, but is this stuff going to be a solid lump in no time if more oxygen/ atmosphere gets to it?
Jim H said:
As a test piece on a small area I removed the flakey stuff as instructed, I just wondered what next, primer, topcoat and laquer?Maybe a Hamerite coat?
Personally i've not put any topcoat on as its very strong/durable in itself already.Jim H said:
Should I worry about the paint being in a tin with a wonky lid? I have put plenty of cling film round it, but is this stuff going to be a solid lump in no time if more oxygen/ atmosphere gets to it?
It does go solid if open to the air. If any period of time is left with no use you'll find yourself breaking through a tough dried layer to get the runny stuff undernieth. I know what you mean about the wonky lid though, mine went wonky the next time I opened it as the paint had literally stuck the lid to the tin 
tegwin said:
... just dont get it on your skin or in your hair... it doesnt come off!
The man talks sense 
I had a chat with Frost about applying it. Best way is to get back to bare metal and remove as much rust as possible by sanding or wire brushing. Then Marine Clean to make sure any oil etc is removed (tho I've been using paint prep or thinners with a rag 'cos I'm cheap).
Prime that with Metal Ready, as it says says on the bottle it will chemically sort out surface rust. They also said not to rinse it off as directed, its daft to spray copious amounts of water over bare metal
All that step does is wash any excess zinc away, by not rinsing it just ends up forming a white powder on the surface that you can wipe/brush off. Seems to have worked for me.
Then a couple of coats of POR15. I use cheap disposable brushes to save washing them although you can get special thinners from Frost for that. Also use the pack of little tins of POR so if the lid doesn't seal I've not lost a big tin of it; I usually use a latex glove to seal them as its the perfect size for the small tins and I usually have plenty handy
I did try POR over acid etch primer once but it didn't stick at all well, Frost said it only likes Metal Ready as a base or failing that well abraded paint/rust.
Finally it supposedly breaks down under UV light so you should overcoat it. I don't know if its only a cosmetic thing, since I've only used it on parts under the car I've not worried too much and just blasted some stonechip over the top. There is a special tie coat primer for overcoating but I've not used it.
It's worked well for me so far, but we'll see how he parts look in a few years though!
Personally I wouldn't use Hammerite again on a car but thats just my view
Prime that with Metal Ready, as it says says on the bottle it will chemically sort out surface rust. They also said not to rinse it off as directed, its daft to spray copious amounts of water over bare metal
All that step does is wash any excess zinc away, by not rinsing it just ends up forming a white powder on the surface that you can wipe/brush off. Seems to have worked for me.Then a couple of coats of POR15. I use cheap disposable brushes to save washing them although you can get special thinners from Frost for that. Also use the pack of little tins of POR so if the lid doesn't seal I've not lost a big tin of it; I usually use a latex glove to seal them as its the perfect size for the small tins and I usually have plenty handy
I did try POR over acid etch primer once but it didn't stick at all well, Frost said it only likes Metal Ready as a base or failing that well abraded paint/rust.
Finally it supposedly breaks down under UV light so you should overcoat it. I don't know if its only a cosmetic thing, since I've only used it on parts under the car I've not worried too much and just blasted some stonechip over the top. There is a special tie coat primer for overcoating but I've not used it.
It's worked well for me so far, but we'll see how he parts look in a few years though!
Personally I wouldn't use Hammerite again on a car but thats just my view
GreenV8S said:
Jim H said:
Am I right in thinking I can just paint over the top and expect the corrossion to be halted.
No. If you look at the product documentation you'll find that it is actually part of a paint system and you should go through a whole process of stripping, rust removal, degreasing, acidic primer (this is the bit equivalent to Kurust), POR15 and a top coat. It's very much NOT a case of just slapping POR15 over the rusty chassis.
It sticks to rust liek smelly stuff to a blanket, this is exactly what it's designed for. You have to use all the other products only when you have prepared the metal back to a clean surface which POR does not stick to very well at all.
Edited by Mr2Mike on Monday 24th August 22:23
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff