Best way of rectifying dull paint
Discussion
Paddy_n_Murphy said:
How much :
a-Time
b-Effort
c-Cash
are you looking at giving it?
Don't really want to throw more than £20 at it. I am currently unemployed so have infinite time and effort. Used Autoglym SRP today all over and the paint now feels and looks much smoother, but the back quarter panel (and wing mirrors) is still dull compared to the rest of the car.a-Time
b-Effort
c-Cash
are you looking at giving it?
Is it wise to do the machine polish by myself as I have no experience of using it. Or should I get someone to do it?
The faded section could be as a result of aggressive cleaning products (mainly TFR's) or it may have been previously machined too much, leaving a thinner level of clear to protect the paint layer.
That presumes it's not singlestage paint, in which case, the former applies, or that area has seen more exposure to direct sunlight - probably a case of the two combined.
Anyway, the only way to remove it is polishing, but Auto-balm has chemical cleansers in it, so if it is a singlestage and oxidised, then your pad should turn red/pink as a result of it removing the dead layer chemically.
Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
Once you get the oxidised layer off, then balm (or wax) it, that should keep the paintwork from oxidising as quickly - that and a good pH neutral shampoo that rinses freely away, like Auto-wash or Dodo Born To Be Mild/Supernatural.
That presumes it's not singlestage paint, in which case, the former applies, or that area has seen more exposure to direct sunlight - probably a case of the two combined.
Anyway, the only way to remove it is polishing, but Auto-balm has chemical cleansers in it, so if it is a singlestage and oxidised, then your pad should turn red/pink as a result of it removing the dead layer chemically.
Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
Once you get the oxidised layer off, then balm (or wax) it, that should keep the paintwork from oxidising as quickly - that and a good pH neutral shampoo that rinses freely away, like Auto-wash or Dodo Born To Be Mild/Supernatural.
PJ S said:
Anyway, the only way to remove it is polishing, but Auto-balm has chemical cleansers in it, so if it is a singlestage and oxidised, then your pad should turn red/pink as a result of it removing the dead layer chemically.
Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
After polishing the cloth had turned yellow-ish (car is yellow). Is this a good sign? I will give it another SRP next time I wash it.Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
topless_mx5 said:
PJ S said:
Anyway, the only way to remove it is polishing, but Auto-balm has chemical cleansers in it, so if it is a singlestage and oxidised, then your pad should turn red/pink as a result of it removing the dead layer chemically.
Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
After polishing the cloth had turned yellow-ish (car is yellow). Is this a good sign? I will give it another SRP next time I wash it.Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
PJ S said:
topless_mx5 said:
PJ S said:
Anyway, the only way to remove it is polishing, but Auto-balm has chemical cleansers in it, so if it is a singlestage and oxidised, then your pad should turn red/pink as a result of it removing the dead layer chemically.
Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
After polishing the cloth had turned yellow-ish (car is yellow). Is this a good sign? I will give it another SRP next time I wash it.Otherwise, SRP is a decent enough hand polish, and it'll just take more time to do than if a machine polisher was used.
Yes, since the wax only sits on the top layer.
With that layer dead anyway, there's nothing to protect.
You might want to consider getting a pro to do the machine polishing, or yourself - it'll be a lot quicker, and deliver better results.
After that, it's a matter of waxing or sealing the car with your chosen product every few weeks to keep the paint from being attacked by the UV rays, and a proper washing regime to prevent putting swirls into it.
For £150-200, it can transform a car from looking average to one that's stunning.
With that layer dead anyway, there's nothing to protect.
You might want to consider getting a pro to do the machine polishing, or yourself - it'll be a lot quicker, and deliver better results.
After that, it's a matter of waxing or sealing the car with your chosen product every few weeks to keep the paint from being attacked by the UV rays, and a proper washing regime to prevent putting swirls into it.
For £150-200, it can transform a car from looking average to one that's stunning.
PJ S said:
Yes, since the wax only sits on the top layer.
With that layer dead anyway, there's nothing to protect.
You might want to consider getting a pro to do the machine polishing, or yourself - it'll be a lot quicker, and deliver better results.
After that, it's a matter of waxing or sealing the car with your chosen product every few weeks to keep the paint from being attacked by the UV rays, and a proper washing regime to prevent putting swirls into it.
For £150-200, it can transform a car from looking average to one that's stunning.
Yeah I think it could benefit from a machine polish from a pro. Don't really want to spend too much though, £150 sounds reasonable. Any recommendations?With that layer dead anyway, there's nothing to protect.
You might want to consider getting a pro to do the machine polishing, or yourself - it'll be a lot quicker, and deliver better results.
After that, it's a matter of waxing or sealing the car with your chosen product every few weeks to keep the paint from being attacked by the UV rays, and a proper washing regime to prevent putting swirls into it.
For £150-200, it can transform a car from looking average to one that's stunning.
will check them out.Just thought I would get a couple of pictures up of the dull panel. There are a few white spots where it seems the paint may be thin. You can see these spots on the picture below:
I gave it another layer of SRP today. Is it worth continuing the polishing or should I consider getting it re-sprayed at some point?
I gave it another layer of SRP today. Is it worth continuing the polishing or should I consider getting it re-sprayed at some point?
Get it measured with a paint gauge, then you'll know what you've got.
I would cease the SRP for now, and invest in some Bilt Hamber Auto-balm to mask the swirls (as best it can) and provide a lengthy protection.
From there, you can assess the need to respray, and at what cost - both now, and the car's residual.
Might be as wise to leave as is, and mask the area(s) with filler-heavy products whilst getting the rest polished to full correction, if the paint thickness permits.
I would cease the SRP for now, and invest in some Bilt Hamber Auto-balm to mask the swirls (as best it can) and provide a lengthy protection.
From there, you can assess the need to respray, and at what cost - both now, and the car's residual.
Might be as wise to leave as is, and mask the area(s) with filler-heavy products whilst getting the rest polished to full correction, if the paint thickness permits.
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