Dodo juice questions
Discussion
As we have a resident Dodo on the forum I thought it would be a good place to ask these questions 
I've just carried out a first detail on my Puma using Carlack NSC, AG UDS and Colly 476, the paint now looks very clean and fresh but I don't think the 'sparkle' has really been pulled out.
When I start from scratch again after the winter what products would you recommend I use?
thanks!
I've just carried out a first detail on my Puma using Carlack NSC, AG UDS and Colly 476, the paint now looks very clean and fresh but I don't think the 'sparkle' has really been pulled out.
When I start from scratch again after the winter what products would you recommend I use?
thanks!
Hello mate,
90 to 95% of the final finish is in the prep work, have you clayed your Puma? this removes bonded contaminants from the surface, then you can cleanse the paint with Dodo's Lime Prime, which is an amazing product. these two steps make the world of differnce to the final finish.
Is the car swirled? as these swirls can rob the paint of gloss clarity and depth.
Hope ive helped
Michael.
90 to 95% of the final finish is in the prep work, have you clayed your Puma? this removes bonded contaminants from the surface, then you can cleanse the paint with Dodo's Lime Prime, which is an amazing product. these two steps make the world of differnce to the final finish.
Is the car swirled? as these swirls can rob the paint of gloss clarity and depth.
Hope ive helped
Michael.
Showroom Valet said:
Hello mate,
90 to 95% of the final finish is in the prep work, have you clayed your Puma? this removes bonded contaminants from the surface, then you can cleanse the paint with Dodo's Lime Prime, which is an amazing product. these two steps make the world of differnce to the final finish.
Is the car swirled? as these swirls can rob the paint of gloss clarity and depth.
Hope ive helped
Michael.
Yeah the car was clayed a few weeks ago so most of the contaminants should have gone.90 to 95% of the final finish is in the prep work, have you clayed your Puma? this removes bonded contaminants from the surface, then you can cleanse the paint with Dodo's Lime Prime, which is an amazing product. these two steps make the world of differnce to the final finish.
Is the car swirled? as these swirls can rob the paint of gloss clarity and depth.
Hope ive helped
Michael.
TBH the products I've used are more than up to the job but I quite fancy trying Dodo as I like the thos behind the company...and I'm a sucker for cool names!
Dodos 'Red Mist' is perfect for that job, I know you said not to add any further protection, but Red Mist really does give the paint the bling factor, whilst helping to keep it protected.
If this isnt what your after, then another product id recommend is Megs 'Last Touch'
If this isnt what your after, then another product id recommend is Megs 'Last Touch'
Edited by Showroom Valet on Thursday 19th November 22:14
Colly 476 is a great wax for durability but for 'wetness' you need to look elsewhere.
For a deep shine a glaze which offers no protection whatsoever is a useful addition to your armoury but for a wax nothing in my opinion beats something like P222 (it will only last a month but looks great) or Clearkote Carnuba Moose wax. The Clearkote range is simple to use, not expensive and I believe much under rated by many in the detailing profession.
For a deep shine a glaze which offers no protection whatsoever is a useful addition to your armoury but for a wax nothing in my opinion beats something like P222 (it will only last a month but looks great) or Clearkote Carnuba Moose wax. The Clearkote range is simple to use, not expensive and I believe much under rated by many in the detailing profession.
as showroom has correctly pointed out above, perhaps the swirls etc are detracting from the best possible finish you could achieve. all the advice above is spot on!
Maybe a correction detail is whats needed to romove that top layer of clearcoat, then you can give the car the right protection moving forward and something to care for properly yourself.
I Have recently started to use blackfire on darker coloured cars ( Not sure what colour your car is sir? ) and I have to say, after a proper machine polish it gives a finish I have yet to see matched.
Mod edit : Remember the rules please http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Cheers and good luck with it, i'm sure you will get there!
Ally
Maybe a correction detail is whats needed to romove that top layer of clearcoat, then you can give the car the right protection moving forward and something to care for properly yourself.
I Have recently started to use blackfire on darker coloured cars ( Not sure what colour your car is sir? ) and I have to say, after a proper machine polish it gives a finish I have yet to see matched.
Mod edit : Remember the rules please http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Cheers and good luck with it, i'm sure you will get there!
Ally
360 detailing said:
as showroom has correctly pointed out above, perhaps the swirls etc are detracting from the best possible finish you could achieve. all the advice above is spot on!
Maybe a correction detail is whats needed to romove that top layer of clearcoat, then you can give the car the right protection moving forward and something to care for properly yourself.
I Have recently started to use blackfire on darker coloured cars ( Not sure what colour your car is sir? ) and I have to say, after a proper machine polish it gives a finish I have yet to see matched.
Scroll down to the bottom here, the black exige right at the bottom is blackfire polished then waxed to finish, awesome product and priced on a level with the others you mentioned.
http://www.360complete.net/#/lotus-exige-gallery/4...
Cheers and good luck with it, i'm sure you will get there!
Ally
For a 10 year old Ford the swirls aren't horrendous and being silver they don't show up too badly. I will most likely do a correction detail at some point next year but I was more concerned with protecting the paint for winter at the moment.Maybe a correction detail is whats needed to romove that top layer of clearcoat, then you can give the car the right protection moving forward and something to care for properly yourself.
I Have recently started to use blackfire on darker coloured cars ( Not sure what colour your car is sir? ) and I have to say, after a proper machine polish it gives a finish I have yet to see matched.
Scroll down to the bottom here, the black exige right at the bottom is blackfire polished then waxed to finish, awesome product and priced on a level with the others you mentioned.
http://www.360complete.net/#/lotus-exige-gallery/4...
Cheers and good luck with it, i'm sure you will get there!
Ally
Steve
Silver like white is a very difficult colour to maximise depth and that 'wt look'. If your car is a flat silver then you are going to struggle regardless of what you use.
Collinite is probably the best way to go for protection. Layer up a couple of coats and just top up every six or so weeks during the winter on lower body panels.
Collinite is probably the best way to go for protection. Layer up a couple of coats and just top up every six or so weeks during the winter on lower body panels.
Silver is a colour that's hard to pull the wow factor from, with a wax - especially if it's a highly metallic silver.
You sound like you've fallen onto the same old bandwagon many others have, of using a sealant and a wax, when either or is sufficient.
Most waxes have a slight muting effect on metallic flake 'pop', and it's generally accepted that Zaino, and other clear liquid sealants give the best look on silver paint.
As pointed out above, the prep (claying, polishing out swirls/scratches) is what gives the paint its real sparkle, and the wax/sealant, adds minimally to that (if even at all), as well as protecting the paint from the elements and aerial bombardments, to a degree.
You sound like you've fallen onto the same old bandwagon many others have, of using a sealant and a wax, when either or is sufficient.
Most waxes have a slight muting effect on metallic flake 'pop', and it's generally accepted that Zaino, and other clear liquid sealants give the best look on silver paint.
As pointed out above, the prep (claying, polishing out swirls/scratches) is what gives the paint its real sparkle, and the wax/sealant, adds minimally to that (if even at all), as well as protecting the paint from the elements and aerial bombardments, to a degree.
PJ S said:
Silver is a colour that's hard to pull the wow factor from, with a wax - especially if it's a highly metallic silver.
You sound like you've fallen onto the same old bandwagon many others have, of using a sealant and a wax, when either or is sufficient.
Most waxes have a slight muting effect on metallic flake 'pop', and it's generally accepted that Zaino, and other clear liquid sealants give the best look on silver paint.
As pointed out above, the prep (claying, polishing out swirls/scratches) is what gives the paint its real sparkle, and the wax/sealant, adds minimally to that (if even at all), as well as protecting the paint from the elements and aerial bombardments, to a degree.
Yeah I noticd that on on the Golf especially, the flake really popped with the AG Ultra Deep Shine but the wax somewhat muted it.You sound like you've fallen onto the same old bandwagon many others have, of using a sealant and a wax, when either or is sufficient.
Most waxes have a slight muting effect on metallic flake 'pop', and it's generally accepted that Zaino, and other clear liquid sealants give the best look on silver paint.
As pointed out above, the prep (claying, polishing out swirls/scratches) is what gives the paint its real sparkle, and the wax/sealant, adds minimally to that (if even at all), as well as protecting the paint from the elements and aerial bombardments, to a degree.
I guess I would take protection over sparkle but both would be nice!
Edited by raf_gti on Friday 20th November 10:39
The 'Dodo' treatment to maximise the results on light colours would be:
- full wash and clay (remember to rinse after clay and dry thoroughly)
- Lime Prime cleanse by hand, or even better, machine polish with various compounds as required
- Lime Prime Lite glaze by hand (or machine if available)
- 2x coats of Supernatural wax (allowing an hour apart)
Then leave this for at least 48 hours, wash and dry, the apply 2-3x coats of Red Mist or Red Mist Tropical (either will do).
If it doesn't shine after that, get a respray
- full wash and clay (remember to rinse after clay and dry thoroughly)
- Lime Prime cleanse by hand, or even better, machine polish with various compounds as required
- Lime Prime Lite glaze by hand (or machine if available)
- 2x coats of Supernatural wax (allowing an hour apart)
Then leave this for at least 48 hours, wash and dry, the apply 2-3x coats of Red Mist or Red Mist Tropical (either will do).
If it doesn't shine after that, get a respray
raf_gti said:
How would the Red Mist (or similar) react with the 476? Would it simply be another layer of enhancement on top or could it possibly lessen the durability?
I'd like to know this aswell.I always used P21S or whatever it's called now and, whilst it only lasted a month or so, the shine was awesome.
I switched over to 476 in September and while it's like a kevlar coating on the car the shine definitely isn't as good...
Will a top coat of something else lessen durability?
raf_gti said:
PJ S said:
Silver is a colour that's hard to pull the wow factor from, with a wax - especially if it's a highly metallic silver.
You sound like you've fallen onto the same old bandwagon many others have, of using a sealant and a wax, when either or is sufficient.
Most waxes have a slight muting effect on metallic flake 'pop', and it's generally accepted that Zaino, and other clear liquid sealants give the best look on silver paint.
As pointed out above, the prep (claying, polishing out swirls/scratches) is what gives the paint its real sparkle, and the wax/sealant, adds minimally to that (if even at all), as well as protecting the paint from the elements and aerial bombardments, to a degree.
Yeah I noticd that on on the Golf especially, the flake really popped with the AG Ultra Deep Shine but the wax somewhat muted it.You sound like you've fallen onto the same old bandwagon many others have, of using a sealant and a wax, when either or is sufficient.
Most waxes have a slight muting effect on metallic flake 'pop', and it's generally accepted that Zaino, and other clear liquid sealants give the best look on silver paint.
As pointed out above, the prep (claying, polishing out swirls/scratches) is what gives the paint its real sparkle, and the wax/sealant, adds minimally to that (if even at all), as well as protecting the paint from the elements and aerial bombardments, to a degree.
I guess I would take protection over sparkle but both would be nice!
The idea of wax over sealant was started God knows when, but said to be the cure for a sterile looking appearance that most sealants give, adding back a bit of warmth.
On a white/silver car, you're NEVER going to get a warm glow - the colour works against any chance of that happening, so the best thing to opt for is pearl/flake pop to the extreme, which is where sealants come in.
To that end, you could use Dodo's Fine Mist, but as it's more a ultra QD, rather than an out and out sealant, you'll be applying it more often to maintain protection.
In due course, Dodo Juice will put out a true sealant for those who prefer that than a wax, or to do the sealant/wax layering.
domster said:
The 'Dodo' treatment to maximise the results on light colours would be:
- full wash and clay (remember to rinse after clay and dry thoroughly)
- Lime Prime cleanse by hand, or even better, machine polish with various compounds as required
- Lime Prime Lite glaze by hand (or machine if available)
- 2x coats of Supernatural wax (allowing an hour apart)
Then leave this for at least 48 hours, wash and dry, the apply 2-3x coats of Red Mist or Red Mist Tropical (either will do).
If it doesn't shine after that, get a respray
Supernatural?! I'm not made of money you know - full wash and clay (remember to rinse after clay and dry thoroughly)
- Lime Prime cleanse by hand, or even better, machine polish with various compounds as required
- Lime Prime Lite glaze by hand (or machine if available)
- 2x coats of Supernatural wax (allowing an hour apart)
Then leave this for at least 48 hours, wash and dry, the apply 2-3x coats of Red Mist or Red Mist Tropical (either will do).
If it doesn't shine after that, get a respray
A lot of comments I read about LP sem to be saying treat it with caution, is that really the case?
Thanks!
You need to be careful with any abrasive with soft paints, but it didn't even touch Smart car panels we tested it on, and I was worried those would marr easily. As ever, don't believe the so called forum experts (even me!). Try it on your own paint. One person with fresh paint on a plastic panel won't work it enough and it will marr, as would any other polish, and people think it's like liquid sandpaper. It isn't. It's a very able cleanser and glaze
On medium and hard paints there's never an issue anyway, and if the paint is soft and you're not sure, just use Lime Prime Lite. That's why we made it - abrasive free
On medium and hard paints there's never an issue anyway, and if the paint is soft and you're not sure, just use Lime Prime Lite. That's why we made it - abrasive free
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