Recommend me a clay bar
Discussion
ok, I have lots of small yellow dots on the lower panels on one side. I have tried AutoGlym Tar remover without success, reading some similar threads it looks like I need clay bar. Having not bought one befire is there anything I need to consider when getting one?
Would this suffice?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bilt-Hamber-Auto-Clay-Regula...
Would this suffice?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bilt-Hamber-Auto-Clay-Regula...
Initially start off with the least abrasive clay, make sure that the car is clean and the clay warm....put it into a bucket of warm water to make the clay soft.
If not using BH clay have some lubricant handy to enable the clay to slide across the paintwork and allow it to lift out the tar spots etc.
After claying rewash the door, polish and wax....simple.
If not using BH clay have some lubricant handy to enable the clay to slide across the paintwork and allow it to lift out the tar spots etc.
After claying rewash the door, polish and wax....simple.
Edited by belleair302 on Wednesday 27th January 16:44
Never used the Sonus or Dodo clays before, since the Bilt Hamber one has worked so well for me, I've never felt the desire to change for change sake.
Never used the Autoclay with anything but water, and have never encountered any problems with water's reduced lubrication.
As mentioned, if going for the original rather than the soft, you may find in this weather, that having 2 pieces on the go, with one sitting in a bowl/mug of warm water, is useful. That way you can chop and change every full or half panel, to one which is easier to manipulate.
Also using warm water in the spray bottle to keep the panel and clay wet, will help.
Don't let the piece get too thin in use - keep it 2-3mm thick - and check it every so often to see how much its picked up, and therefore needs to be folded to a clean side.
You'll hear and feel the clay removing the contaminants, and when it glides effortlessly over the surface, you know you can move on to the next section.
Don't use any real downward pressure - that can lead to marring the paintwork (clay skidmarks) which then needs a bit of light polish to remove.
When you run out of clean surfaces, simply squish up into a ball, and flatten out again - it'll look like a marble, but that's fine.
Remember, when you're done with the paintwork, use it on the glass too, to deep clean it.
Never used the Autoclay with anything but water, and have never encountered any problems with water's reduced lubrication.
As mentioned, if going for the original rather than the soft, you may find in this weather, that having 2 pieces on the go, with one sitting in a bowl/mug of warm water, is useful. That way you can chop and change every full or half panel, to one which is easier to manipulate.
Also using warm water in the spray bottle to keep the panel and clay wet, will help.
Don't let the piece get too thin in use - keep it 2-3mm thick - and check it every so often to see how much its picked up, and therefore needs to be folded to a clean side.
You'll hear and feel the clay removing the contaminants, and when it glides effortlessly over the surface, you know you can move on to the next section.
Don't use any real downward pressure - that can lead to marring the paintwork (clay skidmarks) which then needs a bit of light polish to remove.
When you run out of clean surfaces, simply squish up into a ball, and flatten out again - it'll look like a marble, but that's fine.
Remember, when you're done with the paintwork, use it on the glass too, to deep clean it.
Cotty said:
Do you usually let it get that clogged before you fold it in? I usually fold it to find a clean bit before it gets that bad
It's pretty caked, isn't it. This was from the front-lower doors.. I knew it was bad as you could feel it, but, didn't think it'd be that bad. I had to turn the clay > repeat section > turn the clay and repeat again before it was free of showing signs of pick-up.Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff