Pro correction or buy a DAS myself?
Discussion
I've recently bought myself a '57 plate, black MX-5 and whilst the paintwork is in 'ok' condition it could certainly do with correcting.
Having acquired a vast aray of products over the past year or so the only thing missing is a machine polisher, this could be just the excuse I need to buy one
However, I'm also well aware that with the thin paint on the Mazda I could easily do some damage and take it beyond the point of no return.
I guess what I'm saying is that should I spend the money that I could on a machine and simply have a pro do all the hard work for me? Once the car has been corrected I'm more than happy to keep it regularly clayed/glazed/waxed etc.
Having acquired a vast aray of products over the past year or so the only thing missing is a machine polisher, this could be just the excuse I need to buy one
However, I'm also well aware that with the thin paint on the Mazda I could easily do some damage and take it beyond the point of no return.I guess what I'm saying is that should I spend the money that I could on a machine and simply have a pro do all the hard work for me? Once the car has been corrected I'm more than happy to keep it regularly clayed/glazed/waxed etc.
If you do decide to DIY the paintwork polishing, get a panel from a scrappers and practice on that with the pads and polishes in varying combos to see what does what at different speeds and pressures, although you can't really lean into a DA, as it just vibrates rather than rotate.
Don't think 1st timers should only use a DA too, a decent rotary at low speed and with less aggressive combo pad/polish can be as less likely to damage the paintwork as a DA, and gives you the benefit of higher speeds when confidence and experience is gained on the panel.
Obviously go for a typical Jap panel - Honda, Mazda, Toyota, Lexus - as there's little point trying to learn on Merc/BMW hard paints, only to forget that when it comes to doing the MX-5's.
Don't think 1st timers should only use a DA too, a decent rotary at low speed and with less aggressive combo pad/polish can be as less likely to damage the paintwork as a DA, and gives you the benefit of higher speeds when confidence and experience is gained on the panel.
Obviously go for a typical Jap panel - Honda, Mazda, Toyota, Lexus - as there's little point trying to learn on Merc/BMW hard paints, only to forget that when it comes to doing the MX-5's.
hey fella
your right to say the paint is likely to be thin and as such should proceed with caution
at very least i'd be contacting a pro to have depths taken before any sort of machine polishing
the good thing with it being soft it will correct easily and should only need a day or so of a pro's time leaving you a car thats a dream to look after
if i can help at all give me a shout
paul
your right to say the paint is likely to be thin and as such should proceed with caution
at very least i'd be contacting a pro to have depths taken before any sort of machine polishing
the good thing with it being soft it will correct easily and should only need a day or so of a pro's time leaving you a car thats a dream to look after
if i can help at all give me a shout
paul
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