Discussion
Hello
I am looking for advice.
Over the years I have carried out very small amounts of bodywork using aerosols alone.
I would like to try some slightly larger jobs (I know I wont get a 'professional', bodyshop finish).
What equipment do I need?
I understand that I would need an air compressor? I have never used one so any advice on size/type etc would be great.
An air line? To take the air from the tank to the tool being used?
A paint gun?
Is this all you need to get started?
Where do you buy the paint from? Is it a case of ordering a specific colour or do you have to mix it yourself?
I know it is a lot of questions but I am very keen to learn.
Thanks
Paul
I am looking for advice.
Over the years I have carried out very small amounts of bodywork using aerosols alone.
I would like to try some slightly larger jobs (I know I wont get a 'professional', bodyshop finish).
What equipment do I need?
I understand that I would need an air compressor? I have never used one so any advice on size/type etc would be great.
An air line? To take the air from the tank to the tool being used?
A paint gun?
Is this all you need to get started?
Where do you buy the paint from? Is it a case of ordering a specific colour or do you have to mix it yourself?
I know it is a lot of questions but I am very keen to learn.
Thanks
Paul
I'd suggest:
Appropriate safety gear for the paint you intend to spray
Compressor (able run the max CFM of all the kit you might be using at once, including RPE)
Air line
If you're using modern waterborne clear-over-base, 2 guns, if you're going to use 2k direct gloss, you can get away with 1
Possibly some sort of drying assist, depending on the paint used - if you're doing larger jobs with WB you'll want some air movement or the wet-film time will be so long that you'll have real contamination problems if you're working without any dust control
A polishing mop - when you start your final texture will reflect your experience level, and if you are using clear-over-base being able to refine any orange peel or cut out any runs and then polish up will be handy
You'll need a lot of sundries, and if you intend doing any filler work, maybe a couple more bits of kit.
Pick up a copy of "The Repair of Vehicle Bodies" - it's the standard text for those learning, and while it will help with technique, it has an excellent chapter towards the back on setting up a spray workshop, and selecting kit for it. It assumes the reader is a professional, but you can tweak the advice to be relevant to a hobbyist.
Another route of course would be to visit some local bodyshops and ask if you can do some work experience there..?
Appropriate safety gear for the paint you intend to spray
Compressor (able run the max CFM of all the kit you might be using at once, including RPE)
Air line
If you're using modern waterborne clear-over-base, 2 guns, if you're going to use 2k direct gloss, you can get away with 1
Possibly some sort of drying assist, depending on the paint used - if you're doing larger jobs with WB you'll want some air movement or the wet-film time will be so long that you'll have real contamination problems if you're working without any dust control
A polishing mop - when you start your final texture will reflect your experience level, and if you are using clear-over-base being able to refine any orange peel or cut out any runs and then polish up will be handy
You'll need a lot of sundries, and if you intend doing any filler work, maybe a couple more bits of kit.
Pick up a copy of "The Repair of Vehicle Bodies" - it's the standard text for those learning, and while it will help with technique, it has an excellent chapter towards the back on setting up a spray workshop, and selecting kit for it. It assumes the reader is a professional, but you can tweak the advice to be relevant to a hobbyist.
Another route of course would be to visit some local bodyshops and ask if you can do some work experience there..?
Anatol said:
I'd suggest:
Appropriate safety gear for the paint you intend to spray
Compressor (able run the max CFM of all the kit you might be using at once, including RPE)
Air line
If you're using modern waterborne clear-over-base, 2 guns, if you're going to use 2k direct gloss, you can get away with 1
Possibly some sort of drying assist, depending on the paint used - if you're doing larger jobs with WB you'll want some air movement or the wet-film time will be so long that you'll have real contamination problems if you're working without any dust control
A polishing mop - when you start your final texture will reflect your experience level, and if you are using clear-over-base being able to refine any orange peel or cut out any runs and then polish up will be handy
You'll need a lot of sundries, and if you intend doing any filler work, maybe a couple more bits of kit.
Pick up a copy of "The Repair of Vehicle Bodies" - it's the standard text for those learning, and while it will help with technique, it has an excellent chapter towards the back on setting up a spray workshop, and selecting kit for it. It assumes the reader is a professional, but you can tweak the advice to be relevant to a hobbyist.
Another route of course would be to visit some local bodyshops and ask if you can do some work experience there..?
Excellent stuff.Appropriate safety gear for the paint you intend to spray
Compressor (able run the max CFM of all the kit you might be using at once, including RPE)
Air line
If you're using modern waterborne clear-over-base, 2 guns, if you're going to use 2k direct gloss, you can get away with 1
Possibly some sort of drying assist, depending on the paint used - if you're doing larger jobs with WB you'll want some air movement or the wet-film time will be so long that you'll have real contamination problems if you're working without any dust control
A polishing mop - when you start your final texture will reflect your experience level, and if you are using clear-over-base being able to refine any orange peel or cut out any runs and then polish up will be handy
You'll need a lot of sundries, and if you intend doing any filler work, maybe a couple more bits of kit.
Pick up a copy of "The Repair of Vehicle Bodies" - it's the standard text for those learning, and while it will help with technique, it has an excellent chapter towards the back on setting up a spray workshop, and selecting kit for it. It assumes the reader is a professional, but you can tweak the advice to be relevant to a hobbyist.
Another route of course would be to visit some local bodyshops and ask if you can do some work experience there..?
Thank you very much.
I will have a look for the book you suggest.
Thanks
As I'm sure you already know two pack paint systems are a tad poisonous, however you can get water based paint systems that reduce the risk (you'll still need a decent mask)
TD Distribution do entire kits for beginners, with water based paint packs containing everything you need for a decent paint job ( http://www.yell.com/b/T.D+Distribution+%28UK%29+Lt... ) prices from around £80 for a bumper refinishing kit, to almost £300 for a kit large enough to re-spray a car properly
TD Distribution do entire kits for beginners, with water based paint packs containing everything you need for a decent paint job ( http://www.yell.com/b/T.D+Distribution+%28UK%29+Lt... ) prices from around £80 for a bumper refinishing kit, to almost £300 for a kit large enough to re-spray a car properly
AndrewW-G said:
As I'm sure you already know two pack paint systems are a tad poisonous, however you can get water based paint systems that reduce the risk (you'll still need a decent mask)
Waterborne usually refers to the flat basecoat. Using water as the transport solvent reduces local VOC emissions. The matching gloss clearcoat is still very likely to be 2 pack isocyanate-containing.Don't deal with any paint supplier who can't provide both the technical data sheet and materials safety data sheet (often shortened to TDS and MSDS) for any products you are buying, and use them to determine both how you'll apply the products, and how to keep yourself and others nearby safe while using them.
Anatol said:
Waterborne usually refers to the flat basecoat. Using water as the transport solvent reduces local VOC emissions. The matching gloss clearcoat is still very likely to be 2 pack isocyanate-containing.
In this instance the entire paint system is waterbased, from the prepaint degreaser, through to clearcoat. If you haven't tried the water based lacquer already, its well worth trying it out 
The package was designed from the outset to be as safe to the end user as currently possible, with the included documentation containing copies of Lechlers data sheets as well as instructions
The Lechler Hydrofan clearcoat is indeed waterborne, but the hardener (HH960) contains polyisocyanate. It therefore requires the most stringent RPE and environmental controls.
The MSDS for it is here: http://ss.lechler.it/skt/SS/EN_L0HH0960.pdf
The isocyanate content means it really shouldn't be considered safer to the end user than any other iso clearcoat.
The MSDS for it is here: http://ss.lechler.it/skt/SS/EN_L0HH0960.pdf
The isocyanate content means it really shouldn't be considered safer to the end user than any other iso clearcoat.
There is some good info here about DIY spraying
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm
The section on how to remove water from your compressed air line is good, and essential if you want a good finish.
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm
The section on how to remove water from your compressed air line is good, and essential if you want a good finish.
Hi
Thanks for the info. I had a look at the Mig site and there is a lot of useful stuff on there.
I have been painting the top of a BMW wing and door this week using a spray can.
I had bad Orange peel.
I was surprised though after wet sanding and then cutting/polishing how good a finish I have achieved.
I am having a large garage built in March/April and am thinking that I will have a go at spraying a whole bare shell myself.
I will buy a compressor and all the required tools and see how I go. I dont mind if it takes a week. Hopefully though and I can achieve a great quality finish.
Cheers
Thanks for the info. I had a look at the Mig site and there is a lot of useful stuff on there.
I have been painting the top of a BMW wing and door this week using a spray can.
I had bad Orange peel.
I was surprised though after wet sanding and then cutting/polishing how good a finish I have achieved.
I am having a large garage built in March/April and am thinking that I will have a go at spraying a whole bare shell myself.
I will buy a compressor and all the required tools and see how I go. I dont mind if it takes a week. Hopefully though and I can achieve a great quality finish.
Cheers
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