How to maintain the shine......
Discussion
Hi there
I invested in some lotions and potions last year for the 'grale and did quite a bit of work getting it to what i think is a pretty good finish. I started by claying, then SRP, then Poorboys Black Hole glaze and several coats over several weekends of Collinite 476 wax.
Turned out like this....
The car is garaged and doesn't really see any wet and dirty weather so the finish is still good.
My question is am I best to just top up the wax if the underlying paintwork remains sound or would there be any benefit to using any of the other products again?
Hope that question makes sense.
Help appreciated.
I invested in some lotions and potions last year for the 'grale and did quite a bit of work getting it to what i think is a pretty good finish. I started by claying, then SRP, then Poorboys Black Hole glaze and several coats over several weekends of Collinite 476 wax.
Turned out like this....
The car is garaged and doesn't really see any wet and dirty weather so the finish is still good.
My question is am I best to just top up the wax if the underlying paintwork remains sound or would there be any benefit to using any of the other products again?
Hope that question makes sense.
Help appreciated.
Hi mate. Stunning example there. I'm sure i've seen this at the Bromley pagaent?
If i were you, i'd look into a good quick detailer. Several coats of Collinite will last ages and you wont really benefit from adding more to it, although it obviously wont hurt!
Have a look on detailingworld.com. A very busy site and loads of helpful and knowledgable people on there. They'll all have their own preferances and theres loads to pick from, but you wont go wrong with Serious Performances Show Detailer or Finish Kare 425.
Have a look where you bought your current products from. I'm sure they'll have a decent QD
With all the Collinite you have on the car, you can skip the rest of the products for a while and just wash, dry and give it a spruce of QD
HTH mate
If i were you, i'd look into a good quick detailer. Several coats of Collinite will last ages and you wont really benefit from adding more to it, although it obviously wont hurt!
Have a look on detailingworld.com. A very busy site and loads of helpful and knowledgable people on there. They'll all have their own preferances and theres loads to pick from, but you wont go wrong with Serious Performances Show Detailer or Finish Kare 425.
Have a look where you bought your current products from. I'm sure they'll have a decent QD
With all the Collinite you have on the car, you can skip the rest of the products for a while and just wash, dry and give it a spruce of QD
HTH mate
Hi, thanks for the reply.
Not been to Bromley although I know of another that is exactly the same as mine with a K** WRC registration. It was actually the car featured on the Top Gear Lancia feature in 2009. The owner is based in the South so could have been that one.
I did get some QD at the same time as the other stuff. Dodo Juice red mist. I must admit I have never really taken to it as it tends to cloud/smear a little. I don't know whether I am using it incorrectly or whether it doesn't suit the wax.
Perhaps I should try another.
Andy
Not been to Bromley although I know of another that is exactly the same as mine with a K** WRC registration. It was actually the car featured on the Top Gear Lancia feature in 2009. The owner is based in the South so could have been that one.
I did get some QD at the same time as the other stuff. Dodo Juice red mist. I must admit I have never really taken to it as it tends to cloud/smear a little. I don't know whether I am using it incorrectly or whether it doesn't suit the wax.
Perhaps I should try another.
Andy
Edited by andy-integrale on Saturday 19th February 10:38
DJ RM isn't a QD, it's a short-duration sealant similar to Zaino Z8, Meg's Ultimate QD.
Smearing/clouding sounds like either too much used or the Colly hasn't cured fully before using it.
You should leave at least 1-2 hours, if not longer depending on weather conditions, for a wax to cure, before going over with the likes of the products mentioned.
Smearing/clouding sounds like either too much used or the Colly hasn't cured fully before using it.
You should leave at least 1-2 hours, if not longer depending on weather conditions, for a wax to cure, before going over with the likes of the products mentioned.
Shine comes from the paintwork, what's applied over it to protect it from the elements.
In that regard, you're talking about polishing the paint to remove the swirls/light scratches, so reflected light isn't scattered in as diffuse a manner.
If you're happy with how it looks as it stands, then some more Colly every few weeks is all you need.
I'm not convinced Blackhole's still on the paint, as Collinite has some serious solvents in it's design, iirc.
Even so, for red, most people in the detailing game would suggest Clearkote Red Moose is the best glaze to use, which has fillers to mask a certain level of swirls, and is mineral oil based.
Then again, I've seen red singlestage paint ( non-clearcoated) deepen and enriched with just Bilt Hamber Auto-balm, which is filler-heavy, will chemically remove dead oxidised paint, and protect - only as it's a sealant, you won't get the tight beading a carnauba-based wax will give, but equally you don't get left with the spotting from all the dissolved content in rain, once it's evaporated.
In that regard, you're talking about polishing the paint to remove the swirls/light scratches, so reflected light isn't scattered in as diffuse a manner.
If you're happy with how it looks as it stands, then some more Colly every few weeks is all you need.
I'm not convinced Blackhole's still on the paint, as Collinite has some serious solvents in it's design, iirc.
Even so, for red, most people in the detailing game would suggest Clearkote Red Moose is the best glaze to use, which has fillers to mask a certain level of swirls, and is mineral oil based.
Then again, I've seen red singlestage paint ( non-clearcoated) deepen and enriched with just Bilt Hamber Auto-balm, which is filler-heavy, will chemically remove dead oxidised paint, and protect - only as it's a sealant, you won't get the tight beading a carnauba-based wax will give, but equally you don't get left with the spotting from all the dissolved content in rain, once it's evaporated.
EGP is a sealant, and the conventional wisdom is to put a sealant on the bare paintwork, then a wax over that (24 hrs in EGP's case) if you think you can see a warmth to the colour that stereotypically sealants don't have - bit like the valve vs transistor debate in the hi-fi domain - or you want the beading characteristics carnauba waxes give.
PJ S said:
EGP is a sealant, and the conventional wisdom is to put a sealant on the bare paintwork, then a wax over that (24 hrs in EGP's case) if you think you can see a warmth to the colour that stereotypically sealants don't have - bit like the valve vs transistor debate in the hi-fi domain - or you want the beading characteristics carnauba waxes give.
I am going to help my Dad out by doing his new silver car at the weekend. My plan was - sonus clay, lime prime, Cleakote Vanilla Mouse followed by Collinite 476s. Is this overkill? I thought it was good to go with a glaze or sealant under the wax? From what you are saying PJS I may stop using EGP on the 911 and move to Poorboys Black Hole Glaze (its Basalt Black). Does this sound good or should I be looking at a different glaze? lordlee said:
I am going to help my Dad out by doing his new silver car at the weekend. My plan was - sonus clay, lime prime, Cleakote Vanilla Mouse followed by Collinite 476s. Is this overkill? I thought it was good to go with a glaze or sealant under the wax? From what you are saying PJS I may stop using EGP on the 911 and move to Poorboys Black Hole Glaze (its Basalt Black). Does this sound good or should I be looking at a different glaze?
Feel it first with cling film over fingertips after rinsing, it may not need clayed.Lime prime is a polish with a glaze, whereas CVM is a pure glaze, and a very good one too, but with Colly's heavy duty solvents, I'd be surprised if Moose's oils remained in the troughs of the clearcoat afterwards.
Glazes tend to show more impact on darker colours, where the more benign waxes leave the oils in situ.
Blackhole I've never used, so can't say how effective a synthetic one is with Colly over it - might be better, might be no different from oily ones like Moose and Lime Prime Lite.
Bottom line Colly will outlast EGP, which needs 24 hours to cure before applying another layer or a wax top coat, so aside from the beading aspect, I'd probably opt for 2 layers of EGP on your Dad's silver paintwork, and leave the Colly for your Porsche (dirty rain spotting caveat).
There's no hard and fast rules, so feel free to play around doing something different on one half of the bootlid/bonnet, and see if you can notice a difference or if the durability is shortened/increased.
PJ S said:
Feel it first with cling film over fingertips after rinsing, it may not need clayed.
Lime prime is a polish with a glaze, whereas CVM is a pure glaze, and a very good one too, but with Colly's heavy duty solvents, I'd be surprised if Moose's oils remained in the troughs of the clearcoat afterwards.
Glazes tend to show more impact on darker colours, where the more benign waxes leave the oils in situ.
Blackhole I've never used, so can't say how effective a synthetic one is with Colly over it - might be better, might be no different from oily ones like Moose and Lime Prime Lite.
Bottom line Colly will outlast EGP, which needs 24 hours to cure before applying another layer or a wax top coat, so aside from the beading aspect, I'd probably opt for 2 layers of EGP on your Dad's silver paintwork, and leave the Colly for your Porsche (dirty rain spotting caveat).
There's no hard and fast rules, so feel free to play around doing something different on one half of the bootlid/bonnet, and see if you can notice a difference or if the durability is shortened/increased.
Thanks for the advice, its appreciated. The car is 6months old but does need a clay due to tar on the front wings. I take it there is no mileage in using the CVM glaze over Colly on the silver car. Is this because the glaze wont last? Also if I wanted to use the glaze first what would be good to use over it as a wax?Lime prime is a polish with a glaze, whereas CVM is a pure glaze, and a very good one too, but with Colly's heavy duty solvents, I'd be surprised if Moose's oils remained in the troughs of the clearcoat afterwards.
Glazes tend to show more impact on darker colours, where the more benign waxes leave the oils in situ.
Blackhole I've never used, so can't say how effective a synthetic one is with Colly over it - might be better, might be no different from oily ones like Moose and Lime Prime Lite.
Bottom line Colly will outlast EGP, which needs 24 hours to cure before applying another layer or a wax top coat, so aside from the beading aspect, I'd probably opt for 2 layers of EGP on your Dad's silver paintwork, and leave the Colly for your Porsche (dirty rain spotting caveat).
There's no hard and fast rules, so feel free to play around doing something different on one half of the bootlid/bonnet, and see if you can notice a difference or if the durability is shortened/increased.
Glazes sit in the troughs of the paint/clearcoat, wax goes over the top to keep the oils in and is the "shield" that protects the paint from the elements.
Bit like wearing your underpants under your trousers (the clue's in the name) - leave the over the trousers wearing to Superman!
Dodo Juice's waxes will play nicely with CVM, as will their own liquid wax.
Similarly Zymöl, Victoria, and Raceglaze, but to name a few.
Not to make a sales pitch, but I am selling my Supernatural in the Iroku wooden container, which DJ will refill for a price, when it's empty.
Bit like wearing your underpants under your trousers (the clue's in the name) - leave the over the trousers wearing to Superman!
Dodo Juice's waxes will play nicely with CVM, as will their own liquid wax.
Similarly Zymöl, Victoria, and Raceglaze, but to name a few.
Not to make a sales pitch, but I am selling my Supernatural in the Iroku wooden container, which DJ will refill for a price, when it's empty.
PJ S said:
Glazes sit in the troughs of the paint/clearcoat, wax goes over the top to keep the oils in and is the "shield" that protects the paint from the elements.
Bit like wearing your underpants under your trousers (the clue's in the name) - leave the over the trousers wearing to Superman!
Dodo Juice's waxes will play nicely with CVM, as will their own liquid wax.
Similarly Zymöl, Victoria, and Raceglaze, but to name a few.
Not to make a sales pitch, but I am selling my Supernatural in the Iroku wooden container, which DJ will refill for a price, when it's empty.
I have Zymol Glasur Glaze but I find it a nightmare to work with which is why I went down the Colly route (no flaming please). The Clearkote Carnuba looks like a good shout so thanks for the heads up. Off to google reviews...Bit like wearing your underpants under your trousers (the clue's in the name) - leave the over the trousers wearing to Superman!
Dodo Juice's waxes will play nicely with CVM, as will their own liquid wax.
Similarly Zymöl, Victoria, and Raceglaze, but to name a few.
Not to make a sales pitch, but I am selling my Supernatural in the Iroku wooden container, which DJ will refill for a price, when it's empty.
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