The dreaded rust bubble

[Muncle Trogg]

Hi all

Can anyone recommend any good guides, or offer up some advice, for dealing with rust on paintwork. I was cleaning the car earlier (admittedly for the first time in ages) and noticed a patch of rust has appeared under one of the badges at the back of the car. It's not huge but I'd rather sort it before the patch spreads.

Thanks

Olly

[ian_uk1975]

Remove the badge, sand the area down, treat the rust with rust eater or similar, prime and paint.

[grim_d]

ian_uk1975 said:

Remove the badge, sand the area down, treat the rust with rust eater or similar, prime and paint.

Close, Remove badge, if it's just surface rust then sand/grind all traces of rust away, filler, primer (etch primer if there's any bear metal still) then paint.

If it is more than surface, like a hole, you will need to have a patch welded or replace the panel.

Rust treatments only delay the inevitable (more rust).

[davepoth]

grim_d said:

Close, Remove badge, if it's just surface rust then sand/grind all traces of rust away, filler, primer (etch primer if there's any bear metal still) then paint.

If it is more than surface, like a hole, you will need to have a patch welded or replace the panel.

Rust treatments only delay the inevitable (more rust).

Etch primer is a rust treatment surely?

[grim_d]

I would use etch primer to promote adhesion on any exposed bare metal after filler, not strictly necessary I suppose for metal that has been mechanically etched but where bare metal is present I think it is worth replacing the normal or high build primer for as they generally have a bit of a build to them as well.

It can be used to prevent corrosion on clean bare metal (like a zinc primer) but any underlying rust will break through eventually, so no, I wouldn't call it rust treatment.

Edit : I've just noticed I used "bear" instead of "bare" in my other post, I'm so very ashamed.

Edited by grim_d on Sunday 27th February 19:28

[Muncle Trogg]

Thanks for all the help. What grades of paper will I need? I don't have access to a grinder but it's only a smallish area so shouldn't be too much effort to sand by hand.

Should the primer be rubbed down between coats and will I need a lacquer the finish? It's a metallic blue so hopefully should be able to blend it in ok (I hope!)

Olly

[Muncle Trogg]

Thanks for all the help. What grades of paper will I need? I don't have access to a grinder but it's only a smallish area so shouldn't be too much effort to sand by hand.

Should the primer be rubbed down between coats and will I need a lacquer the finish? It's a metallic blue so hopefully should be able to blend it in ok (I hope!)

Olly

[grim_d]

I would use something very rough for the removal stage, 150 grit and below, for levelling and shaping filler I usually use 180 then 240, then start with 400 and work your way up to about 1000 to smooth for paint.

Between coats I rub down with wet 1200 or higher if necessary, if all you need is a key then use scotch brite pads (think big sheets of the stuff you get on scrubby kitchen sponges).

If you go to a auto paint shop and tell them what you are doing they will sort you out with everything you need.

[Muncle Trogg]

Cheers, plenty to go on there.

Incidentally, does anyone know of a reputable paint shop in the Woking/Guildford area?

[dilbert]

grim_d said:

I would use etch primer to promote adhesion on any exposed bare metal after filler, not strictly necessary I suppose for metal that has been mechanically etched but where bare metal is present I think it is worth replacing the normal or high build primer for as they generally have a bit of a build to them as well.

It can be used to prevent corrosion on clean bare metal (like a zinc primer) but any underlying rust will break through eventually, so no, I wouldn't call it rust treatment.

Edit : I've just noticed I used "bear" instead of "bare" in my other post, I'm so very ashamed.

Edited by grim_d on Sunday 27th February 19:28

[grim_d]

If you dare try to etch primer Paddington then there will be big trouble!